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Old 09-08-2003, 08:08 PM   #29
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Thanks Andy
I hadn't noticed the Astrodomes on your website before. I'll have to order one as soon as I see what kind of hole my a/c leaves behind.
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Old 09-09-2003, 01:35 PM   #30
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Drilled off first interior panel today - to answer your question about overlap the lower panel only went under upper panel by about 1/2" (enough for one row of rivets).
Now can see "u" channel at floor and carriage bolts.Had tried earlier to drill off rivets around belt line, on outside, to drop belly pan but there are rivets under shell skin- will have to lift off shell to get at them.
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Old 09-09-2003, 02:59 PM   #31
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Thanks Greg.

I was worried that wher it went under the windo frame the inner pannle may have been bent at a 90 and it would be a real fight to get out without completly removing the window frames. I need to loo but my window frames I think are partly overlapped by the overhead.

I have not pulled a outlet loose yet. Is there an actual box behind it or is it just fastend to the inside skin?
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:50 PM   #32
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Greg176....make sure you label which panel goes under and which panel overlaps which panel...mark with a permant magic marker...FYI it's a b*tch to figure it out later after you have forgotten....drilling the top out of the carriage bolts is easier than cutting or un-screwing them....replace them with self drilling/self tapping lag screws and an air wrench or a electric wrench....heavly glue/caulk the seam also-they do leak of you don't...geof-near Cincinnati
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Old 09-09-2003, 04:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
make sure you label which panel goes under and which panel overlaps which panel...mark with a permant magic marker...FYI it's a b*tch to figure it out later after you have forgotten
If there is a leak and the lower panel panel is behind the panel above it the water will leak inside the trailer at the seam. If a lower panel is outside the upper panel the leak will stay inside the wall until it hits the bottom channel.

I thought about this when I did the inner skins and decided it was going to end up on the floor anyway, I didn't want it on my head.

John
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Old 09-09-2003, 05:50 PM   #34
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Thanks for info about marking panels - I take airplanes apart and put them back together for a living so I know how much fun it is come time to put things back together, if parts aren't labeled . Love the extra parts.
The panel I took off did not fold under window- was cut straight. Had to drill out pop rivets around base of window they hold a trim angle and top of inner skin.
The electrical outlets are in boxes which are held by four pop rivets. Remove cover then drill out four rivets then push outlet back behind wall.
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Old 09-10-2003, 01:06 PM   #35
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Removed lower interior skin at bach of trailer today. The "U" channel is almost completely gone on curb side behind toilet. I am going to stop pulling trailer apart here so that I will keep shape of back end to make new "U" channel.
With inside panel off in area where I drilled off belt line rivets I can now see that floor pan is attached to "U" channel with a pop rivet about every 6 inches.
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Old 09-10-2003, 03:42 PM   #36
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Originally posted by greg176
Removed lower interior skin at bach of trailer today. The "U" channel is almost completely gone on curb side behind toilet. I am going to stop pulling trailer apart here so that I will keep shape of back end to make new "U" channel.
With inside panel off in area where I drilled off belt line rivets I can now see that floor pan is attached to "U" channel with a pop rivet about every 6 inches.
Yeah I know mines gone in the same spot. Sometime in the 60's they started to make the U-Chanel out of aluminum. I'm going to make a mock up out of cardstock. Then run by my buds house and cut it out with his plasma. I might make it out of aluminum....been itching to try out his Millermatic 210 with spool gun.
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Old 09-10-2003, 05:10 PM   #37
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......when you are rebuilding any boxed area and you aren't going to change the fiberglass to foam panels...brace the area with spray can foam one way is to by drilling a few 3/8" holes and filling cavity with foam-let it expand overnite and cap off the holes with aluminum tape form a HVAC shop...it will also keep out the water as it will not asorbe any water nor does the water have any place to go and expand when it freezes in winter......geof-Near Cincinnati
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Old 09-10-2003, 07:33 PM   #38
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spray foam

I like your idea Geof. Just don't use too much, I tried it in a residential door jamb once and the jamb sprung out from the pressure of the foam expansion. Imagine if that happened in an airstream?
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Old 09-10-2003, 09:33 PM   #39
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Mark....if you drill the holes up 6 inches form the bottom, when the foam expands, it will expand up-as long as there is nothing to hold it down....any cracks-holes -rot will he surrounded and stabilized...and also water proofed...I had a few holes in the frame behind the rear wheels-nothing dangerous but the rot was about 3/8 wide gap...so I filled up that section with spray can foam...no water dirt ice snow can get into the space surrounding the frame member....all that for $3.59 at Home Depot for high expansion foam....there is also a low expansion foam that just fills the voids and stops expanding.....DAP makes a laytex foam like shaving cream-that when dry is water resistant also....It is a quick cheap fix for problems that would normally require removal and repair.....geof-near Cincinnati
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Old 09-11-2003, 01:31 PM   #40
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I got back to work on that "U" channel today and managed to get it removed. It is a very simple piece to make - will only need some tinsnips to make radius. See photo.
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Old 09-11-2003, 03:36 PM   #41
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Full Monty

Greg, did you notice if your vent pipe from the toilet was intact? Mine was hanging loose where it goes through the second rib forward, just before it makes the second turn to go up.
I wonder if this may have been part of my floor rot problem. It appears to have not been attached properly at the factory.
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Old 09-11-2003, 03:54 PM   #42
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Greg176....that doesn't look that bad...I'd cut the floor out underneath after cutting off the screws/bolts...replace the floor with plywood-[there is something new on the market called Advantec its OSB with a polyurethane binder and a 20 year warranty] blow out the wall caviaty and use foam board with spray can foam to stabilize the whole area...maybe 2 cans at the most. If you are going to replace the screws/bolts use stainless...stops the white rust on aluminum...all and all that isn't as bad as I saw on my own trailer and I have stiffened/flled/stabilized the whole area with spray can foam...it's solid as a rock.. now!...I also did the area around my vent openings and windows out about an inch...any leaks are gone now....geof-near Cincinnati
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