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Old 09-07-2003, 03:56 PM   #15
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DataMover -I can't help you at all with any pix-I'm not that 'puter literate....I photographical attemps are a joke...sorry...geof-near Cincinnati
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Old 09-07-2003, 04:43 PM   #16
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One of the other things to consider when mounting the AC is how it is going to affect tounge weight. I know, I know, it is only 105 lbs or so, but up that high in reation to the center line of the coach can have an effect.

I have to agree with John, the fantastics move a ton of air and the replacement covers are available everywhere for 1/4 the cost of a period cover. I have 3 in my MH beacuse the roof vents were all trashed and the fantastic was a less expensive and more feature rich fix for me.
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:01 PM   #17
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1961 26' Overlander
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I am planning to remove my a/c and install an Astrodome vent. I will have to build all except lid as can get one from Airstreamdreams.
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:27 PM   #18
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Check out this shell on floor replacement - not an option for me as frame requires alot of repair.

http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch...dTraveler.html
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:45 PM   #19
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Day2

Well we managed to put in a few hours today and get the Galley removed. What a pain int the keister. took forever to figure out what the order was to remove. to make things really entertaining the gas line for the light was routed right through the counter top and had to cut the line to get it out. The some PO entertainment also played out. The Galley was nailed to the bed frame in a inaccessible location.

For refference how the galley was attached to the coach. THe base boards had screw verticaly into the floor. There was a trim peice on the back edge of the counter that needs to be removed. under that trim strip is screws into a wood strip that is screwed to the skin. I would assume that most models of simular vintage would be the same. there are vertical trim strips the locate the cabinet sides. The cabinets float in these strips and they do not need to be removed. Ours has a forced air heater under that cabinet. The cabinet needs to be lifted vertically about 14 inches to clear the heater.

I did get a better look at the floor......It's pretty rough with some less then pretty repairs. The more I look at it the more I think there is a structural issue. The repairs down the center has left a seam over the top of the frame rails. this is allowing the wood to sag more than if it was a solid peice from side to side. I have some waves over the fender wells that can be expained by this.

Here is a picture in the demo stages.
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Old 09-07-2003, 05:53 PM   #20
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My next question is about the inner pannels. They are running up under the edge of the interior window frames. If I remove just the bottom rivits of the frame will this pannel slide out from under the frame?

Here is another picture with Janice aka "Chili Pepper" here pulling some hardware out.
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Old 09-07-2003, 06:21 PM   #21
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There was about 6 inches of overlap on my panels, so you might have to drill out a few rivets up the side also.

John
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Old 09-07-2003, 06:25 PM   #22
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Hey 59 toaster just finished up my TOtal FLoor repair on my 63 Safari, If you have acsess to a welder the best thing to do is when you have the floor all tore out, weld a pice of steel all the way down the center the length of the coach, this way you an put the floor in in 2 pieces and get it slid under the wall properly. Then just fasten down the center and where you normally would (inside the u channel and on OEM frame supports. ) This method works really well and prevents from removing the body, you still have to remove interior skins but they are no big deal.. Lots of luck and let me tell ya it's definatly worth the effort, I noticed a HUGE difference with the new floor
Don
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Old 09-07-2003, 08:30 PM   #23
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Don:
I'll look at that.

Part of the problem is I do want to replace a good bit of my belly pan. Curb side is pretty rough. I want to modify the belly pan so I can drop the center as needed.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:36 PM   #24
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Yeah, you need to remove the window trim up the sides. Mostly because where they rivet through three or four layers of aluminum, the skin is hard to pop off the rivet stems. You need to loosen the overlay skin in order to pry the lower skin off the rivet. Be careful not to drill too deep.
Also, there may be wiring in the window frames that you need to get at anyway.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:41 PM   #25
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Greg176: I bought one of the Astrodomes from Airstreamdreams. I'm disappointed that its not translucent like the original. It's white gelcoat on fiberglas. Doesn't let in any light.
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Old 09-08-2003, 10:35 AM   #26
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Vent covers

Vent covers serve three purposes.

One: When opened, it will permit ventilation.

Two: To let outside light in. Available colors for Airstream trailers are milk white and solar gray.

Three: It saves battery power. During daylight hours, you normally will not have to turn on a light to find things.

Fiberglass vent covers will not allow any light to go through them.

The last time fiberglass vent covers were used by Airstream was the early 60's.



Andy
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Old 09-08-2003, 06:02 PM   #27
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Vent Covers

Thanks Andy. The '59 original (what was left) appeared to be high density polypropylene outside (flexible, translucent), with a harder, milky white polycarbonate sheet inside. Glued together with about 3/4 inch air gap between, which provided some insulation. Do you have any?
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Old 09-08-2003, 06:09 PM   #28
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Markdoane

We have both the milk white and solar gray astrodomes and solardomes.

You can see them on our web site inlandrv.com


Click on parts and go to the bottom of the page, to see them.


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