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Old 10-06-2003, 08:52 AM   #155
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Interesting and I bet you are right. I guess it really doesn't mattter how you build the frame, top or bottom up, but it would be easier to do a lot of the bottom work from the top. Were the waffle pieces joining the sections of plywood for the deck?

It would also make it easier to set axles upside down. I wonder if the angles were used to flip it when complete. Are they on both sides? Any holes in them?

You're right about the mh, pretty conventional structure. 1x2 and 2x2 tube welded to the chassis and perimiter support except for the curves in the rear. From the way it looks I would say jig built and set in place as an assembly because it has a belly pan that goes above the frame rails.

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Old 10-06-2003, 12:55 PM   #156
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Upside down

Hey, the picture of the upside down chassis, I think that's my '59 Tradewind. I recognize the tires.
I've got mine "almost" tipped on it's side. Sure will be easier to paint the bottom.
The missing crossmember fwd the axle is where mount for new greywater tank will go.
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Old 10-06-2003, 07:59 PM   #157
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That upside down picture looks to be a Safari judging from the placement of the step. I would also venture a guess and say it is from the mid70s, because of lack of split rim. Just my .02 cents.

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Old 10-06-2003, 08:10 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally posted by flyfshr
That upside down picture looks to be a Safari judging from the placement of the step. I would also venture a guess and say it is from the mid70s, because of lack of split rim. Just my .02 cents.

FF
Yeah I agree. It appears to have a gray water tank up behind the bumper. Our 59 lacks that boxed area by the bumper.
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:30 PM   #159
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Nope I change my mind. I think it's mid to early 60's Ohio build Safari.

Bumper is not 70's style at all. It's 50's and 60's style. The boxed area is a stroage box bwteen the bumper and under the tail of the coach.

I am pretty confident the Ohio plant was not using split rims in the 60's. Our Ohio 59 I believe has it's original 1 peice rims. There was some discussion in the past and we decided Cali was installing splits long after Ohio went to single peice. If I had to guess from the windows of the coach in the background, Seeing the frame on it's side with cut out simular to what was on Gregs 61, the tires, door location, axle style, way the rear pan is foremd....I think it's a 64 Safari. http://www.vintageairstream.com/arch.../64Safari.html
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:22 PM   #160
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Full Monty

Yeah, I was just kidding about that being my Tradewind. The '59's had solid crossmembers and the picture shows cut-out crossmembers.
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:34 PM   #161
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I don't know. Did the '64 have the square wheel wells? It also has a straight axle. I'm not convinced it is a '64 Safari. At least we all agree on it being a Safari.

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Old 10-06-2003, 09:40 PM   #162
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The axel is a straight one, with some torsion/spring unit on the ends. Looks alot like the 65 Safari I had. Don't remember what the shape was on the wheel wells themselves. The rear compartment drop flap also tags it as a 60's vintage.
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Old 10-06-2003, 09:46 PM   #163
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Brett and all - is that a hinged compartment door on the bottom just forward of the bumper? Did that give access to the plumbing? Wish mine had that. Guess I coiuld put one in.

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Old 10-07-2003, 08:03 AM   #164
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It can't be newer then about 67. Look at the windows of the coach in the background. Square windows. 68 they started with the curved side lights.cornning. Also the belly pan at the front started to change around 68 to the stamped corners and by 70 the rear had followed suit (look at vintageairstream.com).

62 might still be conventional springs. Around 63-64 seems to be another mile stone year where several things changed including all had dura flex axles, clear coat, storage area in rear bumper started to appear. 65 the door moved forward on the Safari. In 64 it was right at the wheel well.
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Old 10-07-2003, 08:37 AM   #165
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FF,

The little door opened (drops down) so the sewer hose could snake out. None of the fittings were exposed. Sewer outlet was in rear bumper and handle was in rear door.
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Old 10-20-2003, 10:58 AM   #166
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IT'S BACK ON THE FRAME!

I hurt. Trailer has taken us 7 rounds but we are winning.

Didnt' really have to bad of a time setting it on. Despite my under cutting the the radius of the corners a little had a slight fight but not bad. Ended up having a little extra help and Three of us working sure made the job eaiser.

Trick is to have a couple people with a putty knife on the outside as the shell is being lower to make sure that it doesn't hang on the U-track or belly pan. The body was light enough that we only had to be close. I had the side to side placement off by a couple inches. It was no problem for me by myself to scoot it over.

One of the things I did was to use only screws on the corners for the U-track. No bolts on the raius at all. This was planned and I used 3 times the amout of screws Airstream did. I had the track out just a hair too far. I was able to lower the body to the correct location but it cause a ripple in the radius of the side pannel on the end section. Took the screws loose and with a little "ped percussive adjustment" (I sat on my butt and kicked and pushed the bottom edge of the shell with my heal ) I was able to shift the u-track in some. Lined right up after that and the ripple disappeared.

I warmed up my puzzler and thought about how Airstream assembles these trailers. From photos I have seen of assembly and what I noted when I dissassemble our coach I figured a few things out. What became apparent as I lined everything up is the ends are attached FIRST. The side pannels are definattly the last thing attached.

Need to remeber that the body is as much of the strength as the frame. Once I sat the body down, before I put the first rivet in, I noted that the ends were still a good 3/4-1 1/4 of an inch from being in the proper place when all the ribs where on the floor. What I did is jacked up the bumper till I caused the frame to bow slightly down in the center. I jacked till the end walls were at the correct posisition (about 7 inches). This lifted all the ribs about 1/2 inch up. That's fine because you need to put tension on the end walls to suport the tail.

Once I had both ends where I wanted them I installed all the rivets. I did have to lift the front corners some. Did not seem to be an issue with the U-Track out to far. Looked like the deck had a little sag and possibly a little issue with the frame not being true. Once the corners were up into posisition everthing lined up. I installed the rivets half way around the radius of the corners and stopped.

I then removed the braced holding the front corners up and lowered the jack on the bumper till I cut the distance that the ribs were up off the floor down to about a 1/4 of an inch. Finish riveting the Radius and 1/4-2/3 of the distance to the first rib. I then Lowered the bumper till all the end ribs just made contact to the floor. I still was holding up the bumper by 3-4 inches or so. I then Riveted to the first rib on both ends. At that point lowered the jack till all the ribs made contact to the floor.

Now one thing of note is I had a couple ribs that were a little short from the word go. On those ribs I lowered till the holes from the original rivets through the U-track were lined up. Those sat about a 1/4 inch off the floor. Just the way it came.

When I Valkemed the perimiter I did it from the inside by using a putty knife to lean the u-track back enough to get the nozel wedged in. I also put the caulk in before the body had been lowered the last 1/2 inch. That worked well and almost no Valkem squeezed out the bottom seam but I did have some come out the rivet holes. That let me know I had a good seal.

Should have a couple pictures to add in the next day or so. We were hussling and didn't take as many pictures as we had planned. We were on a fight against the clock. and didn't get the finished riveting to the first rib and Midnight (boy our neighbors love us!).

Even with the rivets down the side wall not installed you can tell a BIG difference in the structure. It's much more solid feel as you walk accross the floor. Before I took the first rivet out the whole body had a shudder due to all the rotten areas in the floor. Really made all the work worth it to see how well it all worked out and how solid the coach now feels.
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Old 10-20-2003, 03:09 PM   #167
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Looming

Interesting how you figured out the assembly sequence. I had guessed that the back was attached first, then the sides, finally the front. My theory was that the final attachment would be at the front plate, which could be moved back or forth a 1/2 inch or so to take up slack, before drilling and bolting the plate to the front crossmember.
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Old 10-20-2003, 04:54 PM   #168
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Re: Looming

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
Interesting how you figured out the assembly sequence. I had guessed that the back was attached first, then the sides, finally the front. My theory was that the final attachment would be at the front plate, which could be moved back or forth a 1/2 inch or so to take up slack, before drilling and bolting the plate to the front crossmember.
Well I know the sides were last. The reason I know this is in most of my ribs I had a rivet through the belly pan into the rib (not through the outside wall) I had to shear off or drill out from the inside. When I found that (as I was trying to lift the shell off) I remebered that vintag picture on Airstream.org wit the two guys carring the shell with no side wall installed yet. That tipped me off that the sides were done last.

That front plate is installed sandwiched between the deck and frame so once the deck is down there is no way to move it.

I'm sure Airstream has all sorts of templets and jigs to make sure everything is going to fit perfect so they wouldn't need to make any major adjustment.

Now my U-track at the radius had dents where it was pushed to the outer shell when they bucked the rivets.

All I can say is it worked out great other then having to walk around the outside with the putty knife to make sure the body didn't snag on the belly pan.
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