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Old 10-01-2003, 09:03 PM   #141
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Re: full monty

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
You sure are making great progess.
I was kidding about the epoxy. Started out as a "what if" and evolved into something much more dangerous and ludicrous.
I only found a few small mud-dabber nests in my belly pan.
Regarding the step, mine is broken but can be repaired easily with a few stitches. Original design wasn't that great. Broke at the back of the slot. If you decide to make your own it's pretty simple. I can send you a drawing if you want.
I've decided to upgrade my axle to 5200# and add a leaf to the springs. That will let me add some of the improvements I have planned.
Too cold in Minnesota to work outside. Below freezing last night and a hard freeze tonight.
How are you proceeding with the longer hitch?
Down right nice here. Low 70's in the afternoon. Crisp in the mornings around 50f. I wasn't happy leaving all my friends in 79 when my folks decided to move here from Detroit. Sure am glad I'm here now. Before the Honda and the Burb all four of our Vehicles had removable tops. 1970 Pontiac LeMans Sport Convertable, 1975 GMC Jimmy (last year for full convertable), Has a 79 Blazer (most of the top came off) 89 Supra Targa. With kiddo #2 it was time for some four doors, So in came the honda to replace the 79 and the Burb replaced the Supra to get us a tow rig.

I am on a time constraint now. I think I'm going to skip the hitch lengthing. If I cant fit the battery on the A frame then I may move them inside. Not real happy about having them in the camper but I'm against the clock now.

I hate to loose storage space since there will be four of us but the logical place would be to loose the center drawer on the goucho and locate the battery there. Put it in a sealed box and vent it through the bottom. I could fit two batteries there without much problems and I could also get the charger in there as well. Take the drawer front and put some clips on it so I could access the charger if need be without pulling up the Goucho.

Our unit had the spare hangin on the back bumper. Chili want to get a tire cover done up for it but the mount is pretty cheesy. Seperation concerns also. I'm thinking of hanging it between the frame rails like newer units. That would offsett the weight of a grey water tank I plan to fabricate in the future.

I have some ideas on the removable belly pans. Still working it out. I think you will like what I have in mind. Should have it worked out by tomorrow and installed by Saturday. Solves a lot of issues and concers and should only add about 5lb. Will allow full access to the whole bottom without having to worry about the belly pan being over lapped by the outer skin. Last 12 inches where it wraps under the skin will be fixed and the rest removable. Will be a total of 4 removable pannels for the underside. Will let me get the body back on faster as well. Mess with the pan latter if I run into any more time crunches.
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Old 10-01-2003, 11:03 PM   #142
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Hats Off to You Guys

What a project! I find it hard to believe that you're getting hard freezes at night. Its still too hot to work outside during the day here at 105 degrees. Nights are starting to cool down some though.

greg176 - please tell me you didn't toss out the water purifier from your '61 cabinets. I've been looking for 2 years for one. PM me if you need to part with it.

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Old 10-01-2003, 11:13 PM   #143
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Belly skin

If you make the perimeter belly skin sections 24" wide (half a 48" sheet/coil), they will reach from the body joint all the way to the frame, where you can put a nice lap joint to the center removable sections.
At least that's the way I was planning to do it.
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Old 10-02-2003, 05:56 AM   #144
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Re: Belly skin

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
If you make the perimeter belly skin sections 24" wide (half a 48" sheet/coil), they will reach from the body joint all the way to the frame, where you can put a nice lap joint to the center removable sections.
At least that's the way I was planning to do it.
This is where my cheapness has screwed me. The outer edge of my pan is damaged all the way around the coach. Because of the price of the 2024 I'm only replacing the outer 12 inches This will replace all the visiable portion of the pan. My removable pannels will be 36 inches wide as a result. What I am going to do is run a 1/8 inch thich 1 inch wide aluminum strip at the 12 inch mark parrallel to the edge of the coach. That will put it outside the frame rail.

I may also weld a 1 inch strip on the radius of the outrigger ends to put more surface area where the pan wraps the rockers to hopefully prevent wear though issues. about 50% of ours have poked through.
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Old 10-02-2003, 06:13 AM   #145
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Down right nice here. Low 70's in the afternoon. Crisp in the mornings around 50f. I wasn't happy leaving all my friends in 79 when my folks decided to move here from Detroit. Sure am glad I'm here now.
Be real glad. I live about 20 miles from where you lived until '79. It has been 20 degrees below normal for the last couple of weeks. I am working inside/outside on wiring for the chassis and it is miserable with some very stiff winds. It is windy enough now that it really would be questionable trying to get the body safely back on.

John
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Old 10-02-2003, 07:14 AM   #146
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About the water purifier - sorry, threw the baby out with the bath water.It was badly corroded.
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Old 10-02-2003, 08:04 PM   #147
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Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH


Be real glad. I live about 20 miles from where you lived until '79. It has been 20 degrees below normal for the last couple of weeks. I am working inside/outside on wiring for the chassis and it is miserable with some very stiff winds. It is windy enough now that it really would be questionable trying to get the body safely back on.

John
In 79 My Family moved from Detroit (actully Troy) to here. Just missed you.
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Old 10-04-2003, 07:36 PM   #148
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Update:

Sorry we were husseling today! Didn't think to grab the camera and take pictures.

We made great progrese today but I still not positive the body will be on it tomorrow as planned.

Floor was pealed off yesterday and started sand blasting. 75-85 lb of sand later and the frame was clean. That also included some quality time with a flap wheel. spent extra time on the hitch so we could get a good base coat of paint down. Nice and smooth should look good once it gets sprayed silver. went with rustoloam and rolled it on to get a good thick coat. Ran out of sand on the bumper. Will fish stripping it at a later date with chemical. did get the inside of the bumper sand blasted and painted. Just need to do the outside.

Also welded in the one bad crossmember. I also added a brace for the step.

TWO peices of the new floor are on. Need to cut in the next two for around the wheel wells and we can put the top coat of epoxy on. Plan to start early so I can get that cut in. Hope to have Chilli putting down the epoxy by 11am. Some minor work on the body to be done while we wait for that to dry. 2-3 put down the floor covering and U-Channel. Have Chilli folow around behind me with the epoxy to seal the edge. 5pm hope to be rolling the deck under the body and start the lowering process.

Wish us luck. It's going to be a long day.
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Old 10-04-2003, 08:06 PM   #149
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Full monty

Good luck. On Monday you can go back to work and catch up on some sleep.
Finished sandblasting and wirewheeling my frame today and took delivery on new axle and hubs. Plan to weld in new stuff next saturday, weather permitting.
Haven't ordered plywood or epoxy yet.
Of course, I'm not planning to move mine until next spring.
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Old 10-05-2003, 08:22 PM   #150
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Denied!

Trated at 8am. worked till 830pm and still not back on. Supose to have rain Monday all day. Wrapped it up and have to wait it out.

Got the deck finished including sealed. sheet flooring is down and cut in. Need to mount the U-channel. I have 8ft of new U-track made out of 1/16 that needs to replace 8 feet of good .032 u-track in the striaght places. That 8-feet needs to be notched to form new radius for the rear where it was a total loss. New u-track is to thick to easily cut to for the raduis curves. Couple peaces need to be straightedn out at the front where at some point the tow vehicle bumper got into the front of the coach. Do that tomorrow in the garage while it rains after work.

Couple things I did. I cut the radius of the corners a 1/8 inch short. My thought is I can make up for it with the u-track. Most of the radius was held on with screws and not bolts. SO it can easily be moved if need be from above. My reason was not to end up with the same problem William Henshall ran into with not being able to get the body back on. I double, tripple, quadruple checked that the over all width and over all length to the flats was dead on.

Let you folks that have not made it to this point know how this works out.

A few observations I came up with along the way. The floor and frame are assembled upside down. I thing this is the reason for the angle iron brackets. They are alingment points for assembly. If your think about it it makes perfect sense. It would be much easier to put an upside down frame onto the pre layed out deck. Then once it's bolted up flip it back on it's wheels to receive the shell.

Epoxy is the messiest stuff on the face of the planet! No matter how carefull you are this stuff is going to get everythwere! It on my tools, on my hands and clothes. THe wort part is if it hasent had the harner mixied it will be a sticky mess forever.

Vukem is the second measiest stull on the face of the planet! Atleast it can be cleaned up with mineral spirits so it is not number one. There is hope.

Get twice as many cut off wheels as you thing you will need when cutting bolts. Marks trick is great but I had multiple bad repair jobs to contend with and nurmorous other problem. I had bolts, screws, nails, staples in unpredicatable places. Pretty well forced me to do things the hard way becuase of the chance of running int them with the radial saw.

The angle grinder with a cut off wheel and my air powered cut off tools ran all day. One big advantage to cutting off the bolts on at least the first and last peice is you can lay them up on the new deck and double check your fitment.

No matter how well you plan your time stuff will happen to get you behind. I spent a lot of time chasing stuff and it ate up well over a 1.5 day's. If all that stuff had not happen then the body of the coach would be on already.

Elevator bolts that are too long just suck! I used a pretty good quality of ply and we had a heck of a time getting them to sink flush with the surface. 1/4 inch bolts will not take the amount of torque it takes to get them flush on their own. We had to bang them down with a hammer and retorque a few times to get the amount of crush required without overstressing the bolts


It takes one person with help 3-4 days 7-8 long, hard days to to this job.

My wife is awsome lady. We dropped off the baby a few days with Grand-ma so she could lend me a hand. My wife was in the there working just as hard as I was and took on the nastiest of the jobs. She did all the epoxy work. It was a huge amount of mess to deal with. Got down on the ground drilling out rivets under the coach. Ran the sand blaster for several hours as well. Then we both dove into painting the frame with 4 inch roller and a brush. I would be so much farther behind without her help.
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Old 10-05-2003, 10:01 PM   #151
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Full Monty

Congratulations on a great piece of work. I wish my wife was handy with a wrench.
But she wouldn't be much help anyway-she's laid up with a busted ankle for the last 7 weeks. Maybe it's best she can't see what I'm doing to 'her' airstream. She does keep track of the mounting invoices.
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Old 10-06-2003, 07:16 AM   #152
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Quote:
The floor and frame are assembled upside down. I thing this is the reason for the angle iron brackets.
When you get caught up and a little rested I am curious as to why you say this. I don't know what you are talking about with angle iron brackets. But I would think another clue would be are the screws through the wood into metal or through metal into wood. It would be pretty unique if they were flipped, I worked in a trailer factory in the 60's and they were assembled deck to frame right side up.

John
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:15 AM   #153
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Quote:
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH


When you get caught up and a little rested I am curious as to why you say this. I don't know what you are talking about with angle iron brackets. But I would think another clue would be are the screws through the wood into metal or through metal into wood. It would be pretty unique if they were flipped, I worked in a trailer factory in the 60's and they were assembled deck to frame right side up.

John
Here is the reason I think they were assembling the floor and frame upside down. They used these waffle peices that were installed into the botom of the deck, not the top. It would be less problem to flip the deck with the frame with the attached deck then just the deck to get it on the frame.


Also is eaiser to attach the insulation, Install some of the plumbing and install the belly pan. That belly pan is an absolute bugger with it right side up and gravity fighting you. With gravity helping it would be easy to deal with.

Now this is only at the stage that the deck is being attached to the frame and pan installed. Once that step is occomplished it goes rightside up. It may have changed from that these days but back in 59 when my coach was built I'm conviced that's how they were doing it. Most of the work would be so much eaiser. One guy under the upside down deck drilling holes and sticking the elevator bolts in and a guy above putting the nut on. Once that part is done all the rest of the work is at the edge for the u-track. Lay the pan on and put the rivets into the frame rails and off it goes.

The angle iron brackets were at the ends of the last full width outrigers. In the case of the rear this is 4ft from end of deck. in the case of the front this is 37.25 inches. My guess is these were used for indexing or pushing it along the assembly line while it was upside down. . They were not attached to the body or the u-track. Infact they were about 1/4 inch off the body. The only angle iron brackets that were doing anything once the coach was together is at the bottom of the door frame. The extruded frame was riveted too an angle iron bracket. I think it's in this post where either Greg or Moark had posted a picture of these brackets.

Now this is on a camper and I'm sure it's totaly different for a MH. The frames for a MH come assembled with engine ready to go. Everything below the U-track is a whole different ball game then a trailer.
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Old 10-06-2003, 08:49 AM   #154
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