Originally posted by markdoane
When you get a moment, give us a daily update. Following your progress with great interest.
Had an idea for the floor: Once you get the body back on and screwed down, run a fillet of epoxy up against the floor channel to seal it against water getting under the channel. Kind of like a cove base. I guess you could use Vulkem, but why not go first class,
Then I thought, why not just pour the floor channel completely full of epoxy resin. Would cetainly seal it and stabilize everything with a kind of rim loist.
Then I thought-WOW, and I getting out of control with this project or what?
I had put some thought to ideas like that and came up with a few problems.
Sealing wall: Most leaks from the outer skin work between the wall and then come out from under the wall. Sealing that may cause a leak to go un-noticed for a long time.
Filling the U-channel: Simular problems. The wood is under the track so filling the chanel you still have the potential for water between the channel and the wood.
I want to see leaks. I want it running out from where ever the leak is and my feet wet so I know it's happening as soon as it happens. That way I can fix the minor problem before it becomes a major problem.
I think the best bet is still the epoxy and fully seal the plywood. Then leave the rest as it was designed.
Took the youngest to Grand-ma's for the day so both Chilie (Janice) and I could work on it and try to make up time. We didn't make up time but both of us being able to work on it kept us from getting any more behind.
Belly pan fought us tooth and rivet! It took us 4 hours to get that thing off. All the rivets at the center seam were seel shank so made it a pain to drill them. It now lays becide the frame.
Pulled out a nice size bee hive. All dead. My Fater-in-law killed them but the bodies and hive were still in there. Speaks for keeping holes in the pan repaired and to a minimum!
Looks like my luck is on the upswing. Frame looks in pretty good condition. YEAHHHHHHHH! I have one cross member to replace. The very last one is done. Thats where the worst unchecked leak was. Looks like Gregs. Surpisingly the frame appears ok. About 2 hours to replace it and it will be fine. Rust is minimal everywhere. All surface for the most part and what is pitted is not deep or in critical places so I can sand blast it and paint and be ok.
Our step is not original. My wife says that's the only one she ever remembers. So the PO to my PO did that in. The current set is about 3-4 inches less in width and fits between the brackets from the original. The replacement the step was solely suported by the wood that was rotten. I'll be welding in a suport plate for that or we may try to find a step at the local RV place that is the original width. What we have is not to bad of shape but new would save me some sand blasting and painting. Couple extra inches would also be nice fore entry. See what they have in stock in the morning when I go get the steel.
Started documenting where stuff goes like U-Channel and what peice goes where. Just need to get the placement of the holes we need for stuff like black water outlet, drain lines etc measured for placement and size. Make the templets of the corners and the deck can come off. Hope to be painting it tomorrow afternoon.
We also managed to get the epoxy on the bottom facing side of the new wood. So hopefully I can bolt on the new deck Friday morning and throw the top coat on. Then have it cured enough for me to put the vinyl floor down before dark. While it's drying I can fix the problems with the belly pan on the grass and get it ready to go.
Saturday I'm going to see if Grandma can watch the youngest again so we can tag team it and make sure Sunday we can drop the body back on. Supose to have some rain on Monday. Needs to be buttoned up by then.
Here is a shot of Chili Pepper drill rivets.