Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-26-2003, 09:03 PM   #127
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Floor

I don't know that your model has the channel that the plywood fits into. On mine, the channel just sits on top of the floor. You may still need to thin it down if you want the original rivet holes to line up.
But if you're redoing the belly pan that won't be a problem.
Haven't tried to find 5/8 lately, but didn't have any problem when I remodelled my bathroom a few years back. Maybe the problem is Isabel? I know 5/8 is a common thickness, did you ask for 19/32?
__________________

__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2003, 09:54 PM   #128
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Re: Floor

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
I don't know that your model has the channel that the plywood fits into. On mine, the channel just sits on top of the floor. You may still need to thin it down if you want the original rivet holes to line up.
But if you're redoing the belly pan that won't be a problem.
Haven't tried to find 5/8 lately, but didn't have any problem when I remodelled my bathroom a few years back. Maybe the problem is Isabel? I know 5/8 is a common thickness, did you ask for 19/32?
Only Thing I could come up with in 5/8's that was void free was OSB. I asked what was the next size up and all they had that wasn't a finish grade like a maple veneer was the 3/4. Nice and clean on one side, reasonable on the other.

Have you priced it yet? Guy was telling me the price has gone up 50% in the last 3 months due to the demand the military has and it's going to Iraq.
__________________

__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2003, 11:33 PM   #129
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Plywood

I guess I'll be happy to use 19/32" C-C plugged, group 1, Exterior grade. It may not be pretty. Make sure you get APA quality standard. I don't want to go to all this work and use a material I would have doubts about.
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2003, 08:05 PM   #130
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
I'm to that "what the hell am I doing" point. Now 1.5 days behind. Have 12 ft of rivits to drill and the body is free of the floor.

I have some corrosion to the aluminum in a couple of places. one appears to be a reaction to chemicals from the toilet so either the tank is leaking or the seal from the toilet to the tank was bad. I think the later is the case.

Some of the corrosion is from electolisis and a electrical fire....yes a electrical fire. Something shorted out on the main plug for juice to the coach. At that point the PO put a very dangerious set up on that has the potential to leave a hot set of mail plug!

So what is the "Propper" plug I need for the coach?

Do I need to do anything to nutralize this corrosion to prevent future problems?

Left side is chemical reaction right side is electrical.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as15r.jpg
Views:	490
Size:	46.5 KB
ID:	3323  
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2003, 08:49 PM   #131
Just a member
 
thenewkid64's Avatar
 
1978 28' Argosy 28
Tampa Bay , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,539
Images: 21
Send a message via AIM to thenewkid64 Send a message via Yahoo to thenewkid64 Send a message via Skype™ to thenewkid64
As you are doing a complete refurb.................

The proper AC power cord would be a 30 AMP one. Get a standard 25 foot extension form CW and lop off the female end. Gives you a molded plug and the proper gauge wires.

OR


You could get a chrome 30 AMP marine shore power coneector and have a marine style power cord. This is how many of the new units are setup. It eliminates the opening up of the electrical system when it is time for a new cord. The plate and connector should cover the hole from the old cable.

Option one is low cost, option two tends to run about double option one.

There was a thread that talked about the corrosion and how to stop it but I cannot remeber where it is.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato


thenewkid64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-29-2003, 09:18 PM   #132
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Found one addressing this same corrosion from William Henshall for over a year ago.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ight=corrosion

It has a few good tips.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2003, 08:12 PM   #133
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Update 9/30/03

Body is off.

They did some weird stuff on our unit I think. Several of the ribs were riveted to the belly pan before the skin was put on. started lifting it and found theat. Real fun drinning out a rivet from the back side!

Finnaly got that done and at 6:30 the frame was out from under the body. Now I have a nice shinny Gazebo on our front lawn.

Tomorrow the floor get ripped up. Taking the baby over to Grandmas at 9:30 am for the day. Chili Pepper is going to start sealing the ply wood while I get the deck off. HAVE TO HAVE THE BODY BACK ON BY SUNDAY! looks like a few long days of work ahead!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as16r.jpg
Views:	448
Size:	58.9 KB
ID:	3341  
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2003, 09:45 PM   #134
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Full monty accomplished

WOW! looks great. I spent the last few days (when it was warm enough) stripping the frame. Going to put "slippers" over the front frame where it's rusted. Got some 12 ga. U channels made which fit over the frame. Planning to weld them up in a couple of weeks. Meanwhile, waiting for new axle (5200#) and greywater tank.
Picture of frame repair channels:
Attached Images
 
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 08:11 AM   #135
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
Floor sealant

Hey 59Toaster,
When you get a moment, give us a daily update. Following your progress with great interest.
Had an idea for the floor: Once you get the body back on and screwed down, run a fillet of epoxy up against the floor channel to seal it against water getting under the channel. Kind of like a cove base. I guess you could use Vulkem, but why not go first class,
Then I thought, why not just pour the floor channel completely full of epoxy resin. Would cetainly seal it and stabilize everything with a kind of rim loist.
Then I thought-WOW, and I getting out of control with this project or what?
LOL
__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 07:14 PM   #136
Rivet Master<br><img src="/ugala/forums/images/5rivet.gif">
 
CanoeStream's Avatar

 
2006 25' Safari FB SE
St. Cloud , Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 13,279
Images: 19
Blog Entries: 3
Of course "The Epoxy Book" would tell you how to modify the material for fillets -- using certain fillers to make a thixotropic blend.

With the small movements that will occur between your major subassemblies I wouldn't bank on a rigid material like epoxy to keep a seal. ... yes, I knew you were kidding.

Temps are high enough to use epoxy when the water in the birdbath is "un-thawed." ( a real Minnesota-ism! )
__________________
Bob

5 meter Langford Nahanni

CanoeStream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 08:02 PM   #137
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Re: Floor sealant

Quote:
Originally posted by markdoane
Hey 59Toaster,
When you get a moment, give us a daily update. Following your progress with great interest.
Had an idea for the floor: Once you get the body back on and screwed down, run a fillet of epoxy up against the floor channel to seal it against water getting under the channel. Kind of like a cove base. I guess you could use Vulkem, but why not go first class,
Then I thought, why not just pour the floor channel completely full of epoxy resin. Would cetainly seal it and stabilize everything with a kind of rim loist.
Then I thought-WOW, and I getting out of control with this project or what?
LOL
I had put some thought to ideas like that and came up with a few problems.

Sealing wall: Most leaks from the outer skin work between the wall and then come out from under the wall. Sealing that may cause a leak to go un-noticed for a long time.

Filling the U-channel: Simular problems. The wood is under the track so filling the chanel you still have the potential for water between the channel and the wood.

I want to see leaks. I want it running out from where ever the leak is and my feet wet so I know it's happening as soon as it happens. That way I can fix the minor problem before it becomes a major problem.

I think the best bet is still the epoxy and fully seal the plywood. Then leave the rest as it was designed.


Todays update:

Took the youngest to Grand-ma's for the day so both Chilie (Janice) and I could work on it and try to make up time. We didn't make up time but both of us being able to work on it kept us from getting any more behind.

Belly pan fought us tooth and rivet! It took us 4 hours to get that thing off. All the rivets at the center seam were seel shank so made it a pain to drill them. It now lays becide the frame.

Pulled out a nice size bee hive. All dead. My Fater-in-law killed them but the bodies and hive were still in there. Speaks for keeping holes in the pan repaired and to a minimum!

Looks like my luck is on the upswing. Frame looks in pretty good condition. YEAHHHHHHHH! I have one cross member to replace. The very last one is done. Thats where the worst unchecked leak was. Looks like Gregs. Surpisingly the frame appears ok. About 2 hours to replace it and it will be fine. Rust is minimal everywhere. All surface for the most part and what is pitted is not deep or in critical places so I can sand blast it and paint and be ok.

Our step is not original. My wife says that's the only one she ever remembers. So the PO to my PO did that in. The current set is about 3-4 inches less in width and fits between the brackets from the original. The replacement the step was solely suported by the wood that was rotten. I'll be welding in a suport plate for that or we may try to find a step at the local RV place that is the original width. What we have is not to bad of shape but new would save me some sand blasting and painting. Couple extra inches would also be nice fore entry. See what they have in stock in the morning when I go get the steel.

Started documenting where stuff goes like U-Channel and what peice goes where. Just need to get the placement of the holes we need for stuff like black water outlet, drain lines etc measured for placement and size. Make the templets of the corners and the deck can come off. Hope to be painting it tomorrow afternoon.

We also managed to get the epoxy on the bottom facing side of the new wood. So hopefully I can bolt on the new deck Friday morning and throw the top coat on. Then have it cured enough for me to put the vinyl floor down before dark. While it's drying I can fix the problems with the belly pan on the grass and get it ready to go.

Saturday I'm going to see if Grandma can watch the youngest again so we can tag team it and make sure Sunday we can drop the body back on. Supose to have some rain on Monday. Needs to be buttoned up by then.

Here is a shot of Chili Pepper drill rivets.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as17r.jpg
Views:	445
Size:	47.7 KB
ID:	3352  
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 08:05 PM   #138
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Bee Hive when we dropped the pan.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as18r.jpg
Views:	425
Size:	49.2 KB
ID:	3353  
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 08:09 PM   #139
Rivet Master
 
59toaster's Avatar
 
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
Images: 22
Bee Hive loose. It's about 14x18 inches close to 4 inches thick.

Sending it to the sicence teacher at the oldests school. She didn't like the huge horned beatle we sent last time....she should love this!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	as19r.jpg
Views:	414
Size:	57.1 KB
ID:	3354  
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
59toaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2003, 08:24 PM   #140
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,940
Images: 59
full monty

You sure are making great progess.
I was kidding about the epoxy. Started out as a "what if" and evolved into something much more dangerous and ludicrous.
I only found a few small mud-dabber nests in my belly pan.
Regarding the step, mine is broken but can be repaired easily with a few stitches. Original design wasn't that great. Broke at the back of the slot. If you decide to make your own it's pretty simple. I can send you a drawing if you want.
I've decided to upgrade my axle to 5200# and add a leaf to the springs. That will let me add some of the improvements I have planned.
Too cold in Minnesota to work outside. Below freezing last night and a hard freeze tonight.
How are you proceeding with the longer hitch?
__________________

__________________
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Twin Beds to Full Bed, A success story smily General Interior Topics 17 09-22-2006 09:18 AM
Private Messagebox full Stefrobrts Forum Admin, News and Member Account Info 6 04-09-2004 12:12 PM
Try a full size van Josh Lancaster Tow Vehicles 0 03-20-2004 09:12 PM
photo of the month ALANSD Our Community 4 04-24-2003 05:27 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:03 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.