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Old 02-27-2014, 07:49 PM   #21
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1969 23' Safari
Blenheim , Ontario
Join Date: Jul 2012
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I like the alternative to a english wheel. What was the ball weight? I just might want to give it a shot. Nice work! And im adoring your green grass as well. -20 with wind chill.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:17 PM   #22
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Ha! Yeah, Thats a 12 lb shot put. I saw someone else on AF that did it, and it worked great. Got it from Amazon:

Amazon.com: Competition Shot Put-12 lbs: Sports & Outdoors

One thing I think I realized after the fact... is that when you roll it out, it stretches the metal. Not sure how much, if any, mine stretched, as I have not yet reinstalled it yet, so I'm hoping I didnt distort the metal too much on some of the areas I had to really work out hard. I would be more conscious of that next time.

Grass stays green when its in the 80"s all winter Although its forecast to be really cold tonight, getting down to 54! Brrrrr...

I'm not really complaining, this cold front will bring some excellent 70 F degree Airstream working weather! We'll be in the 70's- 80's throughout spring, so pressure's on to get lots of work done on the AS in the next 3 months. June 1st starts Hurricane season, and the afternoon rains seem to come right on cue like clockwork. No chance of leaving anything open overnight then.

Have fun!
Mic
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:41 PM   #23
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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We got the primer & two top coats in, boy what a job. About every 5 years I get reminded how much I don't like painting. i think it turned out well. I will post some pics tomorrow.

Mixter,

I'm definately jealous of your weather & your grass for that matter. I haven't done anything with the paint on the banana wraps yet. I may leave them be. They have gray overspray on them from the PO painting the tongue & rear storage a lighter gray. I did buy a can of Rustoleum Metallic "Dark Steel" paint to test out. I couldn't find any charcoal colored paints so the Metallic Dark Steel was the closest I could find ( which I don't think is that close). I did notice inadvertantly at O'Reillys a can of charcoal paint that I may go back and get. It was a wheel paint I think. The bad thing is once you paint one of them you "might as well" paint them all. I'm curious about the bed liner paint as well. Are you happy with it?

Barry
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:05 PM   #24
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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Yeah- I think so.... Its just sitting in my garage now- waiting for the step where I get to install it. This is what I used: https://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckBedCoating/

I used the rattle can, which was fine on the smaller stuff, but it wasnt as consistent on the larger belly wraps for the sides of the trailer. Not sure if that will matter though, as the majority of those wraps are under the trailer. The only part that will be seen is the 8" or so that wraps. I'll mock it up when its time and see if I need to buy some more in a pint and spray it with my HVLP sprayer. I dont think I'll need to though.

One thing that happened within a day or 2 after painting them. I had them laying out in the sun for some reason, and they got really hot and the coating was soft. I thought "huh... well thats not very tough for a bedliner". I think I now realize that the product was still curing. Probably needed a couple weeks to fully harden. It seems VERY durable now that it has had plenty of time to cure.

I think I'll like it for a few reasons.
  1. Durable and textured. The ability to take flying road debris without chipping is a plus. It should even help protect against smaller dings. The texture can be varied to your liking by how far away you hold the spray can. You can also build it up as thick as you want.
  2. Satin finish. I debated whether gloss or flat would be best. Realized I didnt want Gloss to say "look at me!", but flat was too blah. Satin gives it a nice sheen without calling too much attention to it.
  3. Easy to touch up. You can spray more over it at any time. It is supposed to be UV stable, but I've seen truck bed liners.... and they all fade. Granted, this is not baking directly in the hot sun, but its nice to know I can touch it up anytime for any reason.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:50 PM   #25
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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I put this over in the Interior section but wanted to keep this thread
going to the end of project if possible. Can't decide whether to go with or without backsplash. I'm wondering if theres enough flex in the trailer when in movement that it will cause a problem for a caulk line between counter & wall or backsplash & contort.

Barry
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:53 PM   #26
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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Counter with & without backsplash
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:03 PM   #27
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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Dunno.... I'm not there yet, but I assumed I would be using some of this welt stuff:

Moulding & Trim
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Old 03-01-2014, 05:44 AM   #28
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
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Why not get some copper of quilted aluminum and rivet that to the wall?
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Old 03-01-2014, 07:44 AM   #29
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2007 27' Classic FB
Fredericksburg , Texas
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Try using some flexible caulk at the seam between the counter and backsplash. If you use something that hardens it definitely will crack over time.
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Old 03-05-2014, 09:37 PM   #30
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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Here are some pics of the interior painting. Its made a huge difference. Now its back to putting it all together. I have been painting lots of trim pieces (window frames, screw heads, vent covers, knobs etc). I'm ready to get it all back together. I think I will have the countertop in this weekend. Still not sure how I want to deal with backsplash. Lots of good suggestions here.

Barry
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Old 03-12-2014, 09:22 PM   #31
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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Progress is inching along. I got the couch back with some new upholstery. I'm happy with it. Counter top is going in tomorrow. I will post some pics. One thing I am having trouble with is the sticky from the PO peel & stick tiles. I removed these tiles and the floor is very tacky. I tried sanding with not much luck. Then I sprayed adhesive remover on the surface and was able to scrape away quite a bit of residue. I'm concerned that the little bit of tacky left will cause problems with the floating floor that will go in shortly..Any ideas to better remove this residue?

Barry
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bweldon View Post
Here are some pics of the interior painting. Its made a huge difference. Now its back to putting it all together. I have been painting lots of trim pieces (window frames, screw heads, vent covers, knobs etc). I'm ready to get it all back together. I think I will have the countertop in this weekend. Still not sure how I want to deal with backsplash. Lots of good suggestions here.

Barry
bweldon;

Your Soverign bath layout looks very much like my 77 Argosy 26T. I am trying to pull the tub and sink and am having great difficulty. How much did you have to pull and what was the sequence if you remember? I have a soft spot on the floor between the toilet and sink and have some bad belly panels that need replacement as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:02 PM   #33
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1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Athens , Georgia
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Barry,
I am just on my way to get the trailer inspected, it's a 78 Argosy Minuet 6 meter and it sat in a Pecan orchard for 6 years. It needs some TLC and I was wondering what/how you painted your interior? Did you strip the old paint off? Did you clean/scuff/prime?

Personally, BTW, I like the idea of a solid backsplash. Brushed aluminum or maybe even a faux-brick pattern in vinyl? My wife put some kitchen wall paper up in the house we are renting ("FO" stone in light gray) and it gave a lot of depth to a small space, so you may want to check out some patterns, etc. Do you have photoshop? It is great for doing this kind of stuff. I have a brother who is a sheetmetal whizz, so I will ask him to make us some brushed stainless steel back splashes.

Thanks! Please keep posting, I'd like to see what you end up doing.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:54 PM   #34
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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Bobby,

I didn't have to pull my bath out so I can't help you there. I'm sure its a chore but lots of good info here.

MIKO92,

The process I used for painting was a combination of several recommendations from the forum. What I did was:
Clean the sticky off the Vinyl with Purple Power (use whatever cleaner you like, lots of suggestions here). I then wiped down with water to remove any residual cleaners. I then sanded using a vibrating sander with 180 grit. Fill any rivet holes with rivets, wood putty in any holes in wood panels. I then wiped down with laquer thinner to make sure it was real clean. I applied one coat of primer and two topcoats. The paint & primer was from Sherwin Williams. I think most believe that the paint stores have a better knowledge of what their products can & cant do (versus the big box stores). I don't remember the name of the primer but it was an oil based primer and it was not out on the shelf. They had to bring it out of the back. I asked then for something that was really grippy to adhere to the vinyl coated aluminum. I went with the Duration line of paint for my topcoat. The whole process was very labor intensive but has made the biggest difference out of everything that I have done. One tip I got from the paint pros that I think helps a lot (for those of us who are not well versed at painting) is to let the roller do the work for you. Instead of pressing the roller hard against the surface, just make sure you have it loaded with a good amount of paint and use gentle pressure and let the roller do the work for you. Good luck with your painting.

Barry
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