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Old 02-25-2014, 04:23 PM   #15
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1978 31' Sovereign
Springfield , Missouri
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When I took up the floor in our 1978 31' Sovereign, I noticed there was a huge hole in the front without any bracing, htat caused the floor to spring. I put in extra bracing to stop that and then some one pointed out that was where the spare tire was carried.

Huh, I didn't know that.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:01 AM   #16
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1986 27' Sovereign
Nixa , Missouri
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Dwight,

I took a belt sander and rounded the outer lip on top & bottom to the depth of the C Channel (I think it was 1 5/8"). I marked that outer measurement on the panels with a sharpie and that also helped when I put the panels in place to know which way I needed to shift things to fit. For removal I found it helpful to screw a 2 X 4 to the floor and hammer it in the direction I wanted to remove the panel. I got most of the wood that was stuck in the channel out this way. Of course some of the most damaged areas will just fall apart and can be removed with a skinny chisel or long screw driver. Its hard to get out when the water swells it up and it gets compressed. When I put my panels in it was a tight fit and I also used the 2 X 4 screwed down to the panel to hammer it the way it needed to go, then just filled the holes with wood filler. It was a tight fit.

Barry
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:06 AM   #17
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1986 27' Sovereign
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Jim,

I also put some 2 X 2 angle iron in for bracing in that front segment without thinking about the spare tire area there. I would like to use this for that purpose down the road. In some of the threads talking about adding that carrier under the front segment, others have commented that they wish the tire fit up closer to the underside of the floor instead of hanging down a bit. With that being said maybe we still have enough room after allowing clearance for the bracing. Maybe others will chime in on this. My brace extends down 2" below the subfloor.

Barry
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:07 AM   #18
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1986 27' Sovereign
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A few more progess pics. Had a stretch of warm weather so I was able to get the front plates buckled in and get the banana wraps back in place. I peeled it back a bit and took care of some rust with POR 15 before I riveted the anels back in place.

Barry
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:18 AM   #19
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1986 27' Sovereign
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Front wall panels back in and walls are cleaned, scuffed & ready to paint. Lower tambour storage painted brown & bath tambour painted white. Im going with a dark wood color on floor and wanted the lower storage to just kinda blend in with that.
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Old 02-27-2014, 04:26 PM   #20
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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You guys are cracking me up reading this....

We are all in the same boat... "I was just gonna....", but now we all have these all ripped apart.

Are we glutton's for punishment? Or did we miss the memo that states "If you buy a vintage Airstream, you WILL become an Airstream mechanic".

Barry- you're moving fast- good work. What did you end up doing on your banana wrap paint?

I went through your same dileema, and settled on using truck bed liner from the auto parts store... I'm not at the point to where I'm installing them yet, but they are painted. Hope it works good.
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Old 02-27-2014, 08:49 PM   #21
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1969 23' Safari
Blenheim , Ontario
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I like the alternative to a english wheel. What was the ball weight? I just might want to give it a shot. Nice work! And im adoring your green grass as well. -20 with wind chill.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:17 PM   #22
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Ha! Yeah, Thats a 12 lb shot put. I saw someone else on AF that did it, and it worked great. Got it from Amazon:

Amazon.com: Competition Shot Put-12 lbs: Sports & Outdoors

One thing I think I realized after the fact... is that when you roll it out, it stretches the metal. Not sure how much, if any, mine stretched, as I have not yet reinstalled it yet, so I'm hoping I didnt distort the metal too much on some of the areas I had to really work out hard. I would be more conscious of that next time.

Grass stays green when its in the 80"s all winter Although its forecast to be really cold tonight, getting down to 54! Brrrrr...

I'm not really complaining, this cold front will bring some excellent 70 F degree Airstream working weather! We'll be in the 70's- 80's throughout spring, so pressure's on to get lots of work done on the AS in the next 3 months. June 1st starts Hurricane season, and the afternoon rains seem to come right on cue like clockwork. No chance of leaving anything open overnight then.

Have fun!
Mic
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:41 PM   #23
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1986 27' Sovereign
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We got the primer & two top coats in, boy what a job. About every 5 years I get reminded how much I don't like painting. i think it turned out well. I will post some pics tomorrow.

Mixter,

I'm definately jealous of your weather & your grass for that matter. I haven't done anything with the paint on the banana wraps yet. I may leave them be. They have gray overspray on them from the PO painting the tongue & rear storage a lighter gray. I did buy a can of Rustoleum Metallic "Dark Steel" paint to test out. I couldn't find any charcoal colored paints so the Metallic Dark Steel was the closest I could find ( which I don't think is that close). I did notice inadvertantly at O'Reillys a can of charcoal paint that I may go back and get. It was a wheel paint I think. The bad thing is once you paint one of them you "might as well" paint them all. I'm curious about the bed liner paint as well. Are you happy with it?

Barry
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:05 PM   #24
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Yeah- I think so.... Its just sitting in my garage now- waiting for the step where I get to install it. This is what I used: https://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckBedCoating/

I used the rattle can, which was fine on the smaller stuff, but it wasnt as consistent on the larger belly wraps for the sides of the trailer. Not sure if that will matter though, as the majority of those wraps are under the trailer. The only part that will be seen is the 8" or so that wraps. I'll mock it up when its time and see if I need to buy some more in a pint and spray it with my HVLP sprayer. I dont think I'll need to though.

One thing that happened within a day or 2 after painting them. I had them laying out in the sun for some reason, and they got really hot and the coating was soft. I thought "huh... well thats not very tough for a bedliner". I think I now realize that the product was still curing. Probably needed a couple weeks to fully harden. It seems VERY durable now that it has had plenty of time to cure.

I think I'll like it for a few reasons.
  1. Durable and textured. The ability to take flying road debris without chipping is a plus. It should even help protect against smaller dings. The texture can be varied to your liking by how far away you hold the spray can. You can also build it up as thick as you want.
  2. Satin finish. I debated whether gloss or flat would be best. Realized I didnt want Gloss to say "look at me!", but flat was too blah. Satin gives it a nice sheen without calling too much attention to it.
  3. Easy to touch up. You can spray more over it at any time. It is supposed to be UV stable, but I've seen truck bed liners.... and they all fade. Granted, this is not baking directly in the hot sun, but its nice to know I can touch it up anytime for any reason.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:50 PM   #25
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I put this over in the Interior section but wanted to keep this thread
going to the end of project if possible. Can't decide whether to go with or without backsplash. I'm wondering if theres enough flex in the trailer when in movement that it will cause a problem for a caulk line between counter & wall or backsplash & contort.

Barry
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:53 PM   #26
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Counter with & without backsplash
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Old 02-27-2014, 11:03 PM   #27
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Dunno.... I'm not there yet, but I assumed I would be using some of this welt stuff:

Moulding & Trim
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Old 03-01-2014, 06:44 AM   #28
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Why not get some copper of quilted aluminum and rivet that to the wall?
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