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Old 01-25-2009, 09:23 PM   #29
Augie R.
 
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Could not save the bumper......
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:33 PM   #30
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Looks like you are making some good progress. Are you going to add some plate to further strengthen that splice of the main frame rail? I'd be concerned about stress cracks down the road since that rail is so incredibly structure. Maybe some plate inside and outside bridging that joint a foot or so, kinda like the way the did the axle plate. Just a thought.
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Old 01-25-2009, 10:20 PM   #31
Augie R.
 
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So the welder at the shop that sold me the metal showed me this reinforcement plate he said its the strongest way to go, the blue is where it will be welded the reds is the size of the plate the two ends are not to be welded otherwise the frame has no strecth and will crack there.....I was thinking of excatly what you said but on top then I would have to do all over so the flooring would be even...thanks for the ideas though evryone has been great ....Just hope somedaw I repay the favor.....
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:43 AM   #32
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Finally back to work...

Hi there folks,
I didn't want you to think I gave up so I thought I'd pop in with an update since I had to go back to work for a few days and the weather was crappy now I can finally get back to work....

I have made my templates for the wood floors out of cardboard in the front and like I was told it did match the back end radius as well.. Cardboard seemed easier to use then the masonite template,not that masonite is bad I just thouught a hot glue gun would be less work for me

Also tested out a some of the new mothers polish I found looks good but I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....

well enjoy the pics..
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:54 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by augier View Post
Hi there folks,
I didn't want you to think I gave up so I thought I'd pop in with an update since I had to go back to work for a few days and the weather was crappy now I can finally get back to work....

I have made my templates for the wood floors out of cardboard in the front and like I was told it did match the back end radius as well.. Cardboard seemed easier to use then the masonite template,not that masonite is bad I just thouught a hot glue gun would be less work for me

Also tested out a some of the new mothers polish I found looks good but I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....

well enjoy the pics..
Don't worry about the polishing yet. You have plenty of other adventures ahead of you. I found that I got a little overwhelmed if I didn't stick with one or two tasks at a time. That was hard for me my wife says I ADD.

As far as "repaying the favor" go camping with us and share your restoration experience is all thats needed. Have fun.
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:14 AM   #34
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Quote:
how to get those swril marks to go away.....
Get yourself a cyclo polisher..~
It's the VERY last word in polishing..
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:16 AM   #35
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funny.....my sister is saying the same thing she wants it out of her driveway.....But I have to wait a little bit on the floor ($$$$) till friday you know what I mean but that sounds good I will defintlly be up for hitting the road and camping ......let see what I can do till then....
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:47 AM   #36
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Swirl marks are the result of coarse polish or dirt on the buffer. The normal polishing process requires polishing several times, each time with finer compound. This is the only way to get a mirror finish on dull aluminum.
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:53 AM   #37
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Nice work!


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Hi there folks,
I'm almost done with all the welding just a few more spots and I'm reday for paint then the floor ........
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:00 AM   #38
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[quote=Augier;663231]I still can't figure out how to get those swril marks to go away.....quote]

There are lots of polishing methods. This site gives a good overview of one. Polishing
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Old 03-04-2009, 06:49 PM   #39
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Back to Work

Well Folks,
Im back to work on the floor frame is nearly done just stairs and tounge repair left.....I had to go work for a few weeks on the road and boy does it feel good to be back....

I started to work on the floor where I left off. I made a template from the front which was the only place there was plywood left. I placed the template in the back to see if they had the same radius. It looked good that day that I tried , but now .....I have a 2 1/2 " gap on each side..?

I pushed the floor template all the way back pushing the rear wall into the shape of my ply...

It seems to me when I go to cleco's all of it together I'm going to have a ripple in the side of my airstream...

I have included pics for you guys to look at.
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:13 PM   #40
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Get this..Volkswagen Beetle Convertible tow vehicle~!!
The Only Known Airstream To Use A Magnesium Chassis~!!
that's appropriate to the magnesium block in the Beetles (actually, probably aluminum on that one, looks like a pre-65)
I was wondering about that pic in another thread- cool

Looking great!!
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Old 03-04-2009, 08:42 PM   #41
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This is what I'm scared of happening on my FC. I am going to make a complete template on the inside before I go any further, then add the thickness of the channel. Canoestream did his this way. I agree there will probably be a bulge if you leave it like that. Is the rear diamonded? Try measuring from one corner to another in an X pattern. I do this all the time on cars or trucks to see if the front end has been swung over in a wreck. I sell tram guages for this exact pupose. If they are not the same I can think of only two options. One is move the shell until it matches from side to side . The other is (if it wont move) to recut the plywwod . Good luck and I hope you can figure it out. Come on Frank , give us the right answer!
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Old 03-05-2009, 05:05 AM   #42
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the bulge has de -bulged... now I now that is not the proper technical term, but that is what happened. As you released the tension of the belly skin from the shell, the shell relaxed. The shell needs to be pulled back into place with the belly skin. Kind of like this...
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The trailer is a tube and some of it has been cut off. You might need to lift a little in the center and push some from the outside to get the shape back into place. no big deal, if I can do it so can you.

Also get all your floor in before you start tagging the channel or shell back down. Having the shell loose allows you to wiggle things around more. I also might suggest you put the rear floor section in last.
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