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Old 03-24-2014, 09:44 PM   #15
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1974 31' Sovereign
huntingdon , Pennsylvania
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:08 AM   #16
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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You are correct it is a poor design the way that plate goes under the floor at the back and funnels water under the floor. Some folks have riveted an extra piece that goes behind the trim piece that funnels water away from the floor. Since I did not have to replace my hold down plate, I just got rid of the plate at the back and let the water shed off the trailer. I later added the bumper compartment back on but it was a separate compartment that did not funnel water under the trailer like the original design. The original storage compartment bottom was the belly skin for the trailer so water that did not get into the floor from the top ended up getting in from the bottom. The wet fiberglass is the death of these things. Nothing can dry out.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...fun-91686.html

Perry
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:29 AM   #17
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Benton , Arkansas
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frame rusted

I don't see anything good to weld to in the range of the photo.

If the rest of the frame..

Well, making a new frame would be a project I would enjoy doing, but not really cheap.

But you have a perfect blueprint in your old frame.
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:35 AM   #18
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Benton , Arkansas
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In my mind a frame made out of 5" X 2" tube would be the bomb for a 31'er.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:21 PM   #19
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1981 31' Excella II
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The frames on the newer trailers were 5" tubes or at least two 5" channels welded together to make a box.

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Old 03-25-2014, 05:53 PM   #20
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1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kokomoscalls View Post
just pulled up the diagram and it looks to be right ( whats currently on my trailer) its a formed floor channel for the front curved section and just floor channel for the side sections.. this doesnt look liek a good setup because what ever water gets thru the beltline trim would go directly down into the sides of the plywood( probaly why it rotted so bad in that area. i wonder if i could run flashing under the endcap panels ( between the endcap sections and the c- channel down past the edge of the plywood to prevent this.
The problem is that while an extra piece of flashing under the outer skin would help the water shed down and miss the edge of the plywood, you also can have leaks where the water goes in-between the inner and outer skins. Water that gets in-between can then collect in the c-channel and will eventually leak down and saturate the plywood, either through some of the bolts to the frame or just around the edges of the metal. That's why many leaks go undetected, its all hidden inside and the water can travel quite a bit from the initial point and collect several feet away.
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