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Old 09-19-2008, 10:53 AM   #309
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Todd, any new developements?
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Old 10-09-2008, 09:22 PM   #310
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Ok, this is great, I am not alone, under My 1972 29' Ambassador, it looks the same, except I wacked out my rusted in step when I got the rig up the driveway, now that its parked where it will stay, being it is not road worthy at all, how should I raise this 29'er so I can get under it to work on it with some comfort and be safe, do you think some concrete blocks right under the axles is a good start, thanks everyone, also you got some great pictures
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Old 10-09-2008, 10:08 PM   #311
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No matter what you do, don't support the trailer on nothing but the concrete blocks. The blocks can crumble and collapse without warning, causing serious injury at best. As far as supporting the trailer by blocking the axles, don't do it unless you plan to replace them before towing the trailer again, as the axles will bend. Where is the frame rotted? Front, rear, center?
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Old 10-10-2008, 01:15 AM   #312
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I would suggest that you consider using heavy duty automotive jack stands placed underneath the axle mounting plate. My unit is on a sloping driveway so I have the front supported on the tounge and the middle supported on the jack stands. If you are not familiar with what jack stands are take a look at the following website for pictures of several ones.

Amazon.com: Jack Stands - Vehicle Lifts, Hoists & Jacks: Automotive

I noticed right away that the ones that I bought had a v-shaped top that was perfect for cradleing the bottom edge of the axle mounting plate. My unit is supported in the middle with two of the stands and then stabalized at the back to help keep it level. The attached photo should give you an idea of what I did.

Malcolm
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Old 10-14-2008, 07:26 PM   #313
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I have been getting some very helpfull information on this frame rot forum,I want to thank you all, I am looking forward to raise up my Airstream, so what do you think would be a good working height from the ground to under belly, The heavy duty jacks I found at the auto parts costs about $100 for four, or do you folks think concrete blocks would do the trick and how many blocks high.
Thanks once again, John
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Old 10-14-2008, 08:55 PM   #314
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I would avoid the concrete blocks. The can crack and shatter. Safety First!
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:04 AM   #315
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The rise of the rig

Oh Yes, I took your advice and got some 3 ton Jack stands, it looks good, took the tires off to get a better look at whats going on under there and also to lighten the load, the next step is to remove the belly skin.
I was wondering, is the plumbing and gas lines supposed to be mounted below the skin or above the skin, thanks John
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:13 AM   #316
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Originally Posted by floridartist View Post
Oh Yes, I took your advice and got some 3 ton Jack stands, it looks good, took the tires off to get a better look at whats going on under there and also to lighten the load, the next step is to remove the belly skin.
I was wondering, is the plumbing and gas lines supposed to be mounted below the skin or above the skin, thanks John
DO NOT place jack stands or any form of a jack, on the axles, "EVER."

To do so is begging to misalign the axles.

Jack stands are fine on the axle mounting plate or with a board on top of them, on the frame, unless the frame is exposed.

LPG lines are NEVER buried, but must be attached to the underbelly and/or frame, and in plain view, so that if a leak occurs, it will dispense and not collect in a closed area, looking for a spark.

Water lines are never exposed, but always buried.

Additionally from your photo, it appears that the axles are shot and the shock absorbers are incorrect.

Airstream horizontal shocks are black, not yellow.

Airstream trailers from the late 60's all use horizontal shocks, that are only available from a dealer. Vertical shocks will not function correctly on your trailer.

Andy
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Old 10-16-2008, 12:27 PM   #317
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Andy's right,, Although blunt, I would put those jakes on the frame.. The axels are not regular axels and can be damaged, as far as being shot they should curve up and I can't tell by the pic... either way the shocks will need replacing

Your making good progress and the frame looks good from the side... not much rust.. Keep it up, Mines going up soon too, as I have rear end separation... and a cracked frame... sucks....
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Old 10-16-2008, 08:49 PM   #318
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Thanks folks,Great advice, now I can get under the rig to see where the frame is strongest, the axle mounting plate sounds perfect, there is also three stabilzer jacks that seem worthy as I also have them down, also, the axles do curve up in the center, also the drain pipe and gas line is under the skin for now, I will take your advice Andy, to place them in there proper place as I restore this rig, also, looking at my 1973 Airstream Service Manual page #10 shows my axle and running gear assembly and the shocks in my image are in there correct positon.
I will reposition the jack stands ASAP, thanks again, John
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Old 10-17-2008, 03:21 AM   #319
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Andy,
Just out of curiousity, how can you tell his axles are shot?
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:28 AM   #320
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Swhite, Do Not Question these things.
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:20 AM   #321
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Once again, thanks to Andy! I just bought axles from him and would have hated to destroy them. When looking at jacking the trailer up forum members always say jack from the frame and I could never understand why not to use the axle. now I know.
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Old 10-17-2008, 10:35 AM   #322
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Andy,
Just out of curiousity, how can you tell his axles are shot?
I am a novice but even I can tell the axles need to be replaced. In the photos you can see that the torsion arm is parallel with the frame or maybe have a slight upward angle to them. The torsion arm should have a downward angle to them as you can see in this picture.
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