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I've been wondering what to do about the fold-down step outriggers? Seems like I saw step-outriggers, with the groove, for sale somewhere but I haven't been able to put my finger on them?
I'd cap the box beam openings front and rear - zero reason to leave back bumper open for condensation via air exchange....
If it was a tube frame aircraft they would drill a relief hole somewhere in the frame before sealing it up, then put some oil inside and tack weld over the relief hole before rotating the frame to spread the oil throughout.
Todd, of course the extra 300 lbs is well worth it based on the quality of frame you will have in the end.
Steve
__________________
Have you never questioned those who travel?
Have you paid no regard to their accounts- Job 21:29
The 3" channel extension is black-tank area & must likely be duplicated; that said, it also formed the hose-storage trunk at the rear bumper on many model trailers but I don't see the 12-inch plus extension of the frame past the shell that makes up the trunk area.
'Sculpted relief' is 45 or 60 degree slant - something like notching the beam sides out and hammering the bottom up to meet the new angle to be welded...
I studied my stair glider mechanism and thought of tacking a thin sheet at the top of the outrigger and letting it drape without attaching at the bottom to close off the wrap area & allowing the sheet metal to be bent out of the way if and when access was required. We have Deer Mice up here that can get through unbelievably small openings, true it's not like Norway Rats (that I bet my '73 had) but still worthy of mention at least while the project is still open...
Also - provisions in the sub-floor for heavy 120VAC wire run from trailer front to 12VDC converter area to allow easy tow vehicle mounted generator hookup is on my list of to-dos; with the freshwater tank, step assembly and vermin gnawing being the obstacles you can dodge more easily now...
The 3" channel extension is black-tank area & must likely be duplicated; that said, it also formed the hose-storage trunk at the rear bumper on many model trailers but I don't see the 12-inch plus extension of the frame past the shell that makes up the trunk area.
'Sculpted relief' is 45 or 60 degree slant - something like notching the beam sides out and hammering the bottom up to meet the new angle to be welded...
Look closely at the last photo in post 224 and I think you will see the 12-inch extension of the frame past the shell. It's the area painted grey and the rusted area is the area usually hidden behind the banana skin and directly below the shell. The bumper is still attached to the main rails in the photo. (Wow, those were the good old days!)
If I remember correctly the 3" skid serves as the attachment point for the black and grey tank frames. Actually the frames for the tanks are connected to the skids by steel tabs that have been welded to the skids. The tank frames are connected to those tabs with bolts. The material from the old frames is still in good shape so we will be reusing it.
I see what you mean about the angle of the cut. The rear ends of the main rails are square but the skid is actually cut at a 45 degree angle. The welder is using the old frame for a pattern so no worries.
__________________
Todd
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
We have Deer Mice up here that can get through unbelievably small openings, true it's not like Norway Rats (that I bet my '73 had) but still worthy of mention at least while the project is still open...
I'm not sure what we have here in Texas but they are unusually large! During the dismantle I found three HUGE "mouse" carcasses underneath the floor. Trust me I have got photographic evidence that wouldn't be nice to publish. I also found a mouse nest inside one of the furnace ducts! The PO must have noticed this annoying problem because I found poison packets in the most unusual places obviously carried there by the mice. Somebody should start a thread: creatures found living in airstreams!
__________________
Todd
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
All the cross-members are now in place and the welder is working on the outriggers. Most of those have been cut-out.
For outrigger material we decided against using the heavier 5 inch channel instead opting for salvaged steel that is slightly heavier than the original.
I purchased two step-outriggers for mounting on either side of the steps and those have been tacked into place.
The axle mounting plates have been cut out and are ready to be clamped into place.
The fresh-water tank frame fabricated out of new angle has been welded into place. The frames for the black and grey water tanks were salvaged from the old frame.
__________________
Todd
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
I'm in the process of installing the outriggers for the double-steps onto the new frame.
Here is the right hand-side outrigger for the double step on the old frame. Note the lever which holds the steps in the retracted or folded-up position. The lever is secured in the right hand outrigger by a cotter pin. A spring is attached to the end of the right side to maintain pressure on the bar. You can see the lever running through holes in the both outriggers side-to-side.
I purchased two new step outriggers thinking I had found an easy solution to replacing this part! One day maybe I'll lose my naivete' and realize that there aren't too many easy steps in restoring a trailer! Until then I'll hang on desperately to the unrealistic optimism!
Anyway, so I discovered that the hole for the lever is missing and a piece of angle iron is welded in at a diagonal on the new part. I have no idea of the purpose of this angle iron? Obviously this outrigger is designed for a different step-up or model of steps? Anybody know how this new set-up works? Have close-up photos of the new system especially of the right-hand side outrigger? A new set of steps is expensive so I am considering modifying the new outrigger to accommodate my old set-up. Or maybe I just need to update a few part?
__________________
Todd
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
Anybody know how this new set-up works? Have close-up photos of the new system especially of the right-hand side outrigger?
Todd,
HERE is the "outrigger for step attachment guide" at the Out-of-Doors-Mart website...complete with pictures.
I think if you compare your original outriggers to the new ones you should be able to modify the new ones to work as the old ones did... as long as all your stair parts are functional. It's looks to me like you may want to replace a few of the parts like that spring.
HERE is the "outrigger for step attachment guide" at the Out-of-Doors-Mart website...complete with pictures.
I think if you compare your original outriggers to the new ones you should be able to modify the new ones to work as the old ones did... as long as all your stair parts are functional. It's looks to me like you may want to replace a few of the parts like that spring.
Steve, I checked out the ODM site but unfortunately there are no details or photos concerning the questions I have raised. The photos from the site show the steps only but nothing is shown below the floor or behind the skins or how this lever-arm operates in the newer models. I don't want to start cutting holes in the new outrigger if adding a few new parts will solve the problem. Apparently the lever-arm has been completely redesigned but I don't see those offered for sale. So I may need to fabricate? Maybe Dan at ODM will read this and respond.
__________________
Todd
“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor, catch the trade winds in your sails, explore, dream, discover, and change habits.”
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