Frame Rot

[utee94]

That's great news, Todd! You're almost getting to the fun stuff!

-Marcus

[monocoque]

Unfortunately it took approximately 9 weeks to get the Henschen axles. I'm told this is definitely not the norm which is usually 4-6 weeks. I was also told that this has never happened before. At a frustrated week number 9 and still no axles or answers Andy suggested I contact GKN directly. Interestingly the GKN website has a contact page with an email address which suggests that the European managing director of GKN, Domenico Traverso, will answer questions personally.

So late one afternoon I sent an email to the director through the website questioning the cause for the delay in my axle order and requesting a estimated shipping date. The next morning I was late arriving in the office but when I checked my email I was surprised to find a personal email from Domenico suggesting that he too was surprised to learn of the delay and promising an answer as soon as the sun rose in the United States. I also found two telephone messages personally from Jeff Moore the USA plant manager at Jackson Center that had been waiting since around 8:00 a.m.

When I returned the telephone calls later that morning I was told that Jeff was in a meeting. However I was immediately transferred to Rachel Jordan in customer service who was already up to speed on the issue. Rachel explained that the cause of the delay was a back ordered axle arm which had a 20-24 week production time. Rachel said that GKN had decided to remedy the situation by installing a heavier duty axle arm on my axles for no extra charge and promised to ship within 24 hours. And that's exactly what happened!

[Jim & Susan]

20 to 24 weeks production time? That's 6 months. Did they offer any explanation why such a long delay?

Jim

[monocoque]

Yup, 20-24 week production time for the back ordered axle-arm. That's what GKN said. The exact cause of the back-order is a total mystery in my opinion. You can read a little bit more about the confusion in this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...-rv-42664.html

So now you know why I started the http://www.airforums.com/forums/f441...ion-42083.html thread during the long hot WAIT of summer 2008!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

20 to 24 weeks production time? That's 6 months. Did they offer any explanation why such a long delay?

Jim

That was the time that a new employee, who was in charge of materials, quoted, since he decided to change a part.

Unfortunately, that fact was sort of not made known to production, who was caught with a huge back log.

Once the problem was discovered, that new employee was quickly terminated, with real good cause.

The issue is now dead, and current production is now 4 weeks.

The Corporate game plan, is to reduce that time to 2 weeks, as soon as possible, which was the original lag time.

Because of the huge back log, it's estimated that it may take as long as 3 months or there abouts, to get back to the original schedules.

Production is working 3 shifts, so hopefully, that time delay period will improve, at least one day at a time.

It's absolutely amazing, how one person can so quickly turn a situation, upside down.

Perhaps he can find a job more suited to his talents, like making hamburgers, with fresh meat, of course. But maybe even that might be more than he can handle, all at one time.

[monocoque]

What made the WAIT OF SUMMER 2008 so much hotter and mysterious for me was that this information didn't get clearly passed along until week number 9?

[utee94]

Hey Todd, hope all is well, and wondering how your project is going?

By the way, Vernon and I have challenged you to have your trailer ready for the Texas State Vintage Rally on Feb 4-8, 2009. We're shooting for that as a target date for our work as well. This year it is just outside of San Antonio, so you have no excuses!

Take care,
-Marcus

[monocoque]

NOTICE TO ALL FRAME-ROT-THREAD FANS: All is well though the frame/shell marriage has been temporarily delayed...again...

Spicy, intriguing details to follow...

Marcus and Vernon, that's quite a challenge! Of course the Texas State Vintage Rally isn't something I plan on missing.

Hopefully the wind will pick up soon and put some loft back in the sails of this project!

[3Ms75Argosy]

Todd, any new developements?
Marc

[floridartist]

Ok, this is great, I am not alone, under My 1972 29' Ambassador, it looks the same, except I wacked out my rusted in step when I got the rig up the driveway, now that its parked where it will stay, being it is not road worthy at all, how should I raise this 29'er so I can get under it to work on it with some comfort and be safe, do you think some concrete blocks right under the axles is a good start, thanks everyone, also you got some great pictures

[overlander63]

No matter what you do, don't support the trailer on nothing but the concrete blocks. The blocks can crumble and collapse without warning, causing serious injury at best. As far as supporting the trailer by blocking the axles, don't do it unless you plan to replace them before towing the trailer again, as the axles will bend. Where is the frame rotted? Front, rear, center?

[malconium]

I would suggest that you consider using heavy duty automotive jack stands placed underneath the axle mounting plate. My unit is on a sloping driveway so I have the front supported on the tounge and the middle supported on the jack stands. If you are not familiar with what jack stands are take a look at the following website for pictures of several ones.

Amazon.com: Jack Stands - Vehicle Lifts, Hoists & Jacks: Automotive

I noticed right away that the ones that I bought had a v-shaped top that was perfect for cradleing the bottom edge of the axle mounting plate. My unit is supported in the middle with two of the stands and then stabalized at the back to help keep it level. The attached photo should give you an idea of what I did.

Malcolm

[floridartist]

I have been getting some very helpfull information on this frame rot forum,I want to thank you all, I am looking forward to raise up my Airstream, so what do you think would be a good working height from the ground to under belly, The heavy duty jacks I found at the auto parts costs about $100 for four, or do you folks think concrete blocks would do the trick and how many blocks high.
Thanks once again, John

[azflycaster]

I would avoid the concrete blocks. The can crack and shatter. Safety First!

[floridartist]

Oh Yes, I took your advice and got some 3 ton Jack stands, it looks good, took the tires off to get a better look at whats going on under there and also to lighten the load, the next step is to remove the belly skin.
I was wondering, is the plumbing and gas lines supposed to be mounted below the skin or above the skin, thanks John

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by floridartist

Oh Yes, I took your advice and got some 3 ton Jack stands, it looks good, took the tires off to get a better look at whats going on under there and also to lighten the load, the next step is to remove the belly skin.
I was wondering, is the plumbing and gas lines supposed to be mounted below the skin or above the skin, thanks John

DO NOT place jack stands or any form of a jack, on the axles, "EVER."

To do so is begging to misalign the axles.

Jack stands are fine on the axle mounting plate or with a board on top of them, on the frame, unless the frame is exposed.

LPG lines are NEVER buried, but must be attached to the underbelly and/or frame, and in plain view, so that if a leak occurs, it will dispense and not collect in a closed area, looking for a spark.

Water lines are never exposed, but always buried.

Additionally from your photo, it appears that the axles are shot and the shock absorbers are incorrect.

Airstream horizontal shocks are black, not yellow.

Airstream trailers from the late 60's all use horizontal shocks, that are only available from a dealer. Vertical shocks will not function correctly on your trailer.

Andy

[purman]

Andy's right,, Although blunt, I would put those jakes on the frame.. The axels are not regular axels and can be damaged, as far as being shot they should curve up and I can't tell by the pic... either way the shocks will need replacing

Your making good progress and the frame looks good from the side... not much rust.. Keep it up, Mines going up soon too, as I have rear end separation... and a cracked frame... sucks....

[floridartist]

Thanks folks,Great advice, now I can get under the rig to see where the frame is strongest, the axle mounting plate sounds perfect, there is also three stabilzer jacks that seem worthy as I also have them down, also, the axles do curve up in the center, also the drain pipe and gas line is under the skin for now, I will take your advice Andy, to place them in there proper place as I restore this rig, also, looking at my 1973 Airstream Service Manual page #10 shows my axle and running gear assembly and the shocks in my image are in there correct positon.
I will reposition the jack stands ASAP, thanks again, John

[swhite832]

Andy,
Just out of curiousity, how can you tell his axles are shot?

[Gkiesel]

Swhite, Do Not Question these things.