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dkrukosky · 07-25-2012, 04:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2HB

I'm looking at the picture and it appears that the frame is off the trailer. Is that correct?
Was the original frame made out of 4" "C" channel?

It is off the trailer and up side down in the photo. the main frame is 5" C channel

M2HB · 07-25-2012, 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkrukosky

It is off the trailer and up side down in the photo. the main frame is 5" C channel

You are doing a nice job. With the amount of work reinforcing it, it may be easier building a new frame out of 6" structural channel with 3" cross members and outriggers.
It is too bad that you even have to do this.
How hard was it to remove the frame from the trailer?

dkrukosky · 07-25-2012, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M2HB

You are doing a nice job. With the amount of work reinforcing it, it may be easier building a new frame out of 6" structural channel with 3" cross members and outriggers.
It is too bad that you even have to do this.
How hard was it to remove the frame from the trailer?

Building a new frame would likely be easier but I do not have the funds to do it that way. Removal was not bad I just hope I can remember how to put it all back together.

M2HB · 07-25-2012, 05:04 PM

The cost of the steel to build a new frame of that size out of the materials that I listed is approx. $1,200. That doesn't include consumables or labor. I figure that it would take one person about a week to do it.
It is unfortunate that anyone has to go what you are going through.

I wish you the best of luck. Keep us informed on how it goes.

yonallycamp · 07-27-2012, 08:47 PM

Trying to decide whether to buy another camper or rebuilt our frame - we have rust damage frond exposure to salt air at the beach - anyone know the cost to rebuild the frame - there is a airstream dealer in our state

dkrukosky · 08-06-2012, 07:38 AM

finally got some more done on the frame. I was down for a week due to sinus surgery. I replaced the first two cross members and 6 out riggers.
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_XjkojXCG-...-47-32_684.jpg

marzboy · 08-06-2012, 08:31 AM

I had similar issues on my frame.
1)rear cross member-Toast
2)step area- Hosed
3)outriggers-Thrashed
So I rebuilt and fabricated lots of areas on my trailer frame. I also "boxed" a few areas that were fulcrum points where the frame buckled a bit. This phase was the most time consuming frustrating part of my project so far. Good luck you can do it!

dkrukosky · 08-19-2012, 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marzboy

I had similar issues on my frame.
1)rear cross member-Toast
2)step area- Hosed
3)outriggers-Thrashed
So I rebuilt and fabricated lots of areas on my trailer frame. I also "boxed" a few areas that were fulcrum points where the frame buckled a bit. This phase was the most time consuming frustrating part of my project so far. Good luck you can do it!

I have 3 outriggers in in the corners that are triangular in shape. Should there be a 4th one?

195Pilot · 08-19-2012, 12:56 PM

My 31 footer had only 3, IIRC they were 11" long, they were on the front and on the rear curb side. I added one the rear street side. I can't see were it would interfere with anything. I also added tabs outboard on the main frame at the rear hold down area. Thinking about cutting 1/8" plate curved to match the shell and tie the triangle outrigger to the rear main frame.
Good Luck,
Jack

marzboy · 08-20-2012, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkrukosky

I have 3 outriggers in in the corners that are triangular in shape. Should there be a 4th one?

Im not sure what you mean but I have two triangular rear outriggers. I added a piece of angle iron to give a little more support to the rear corners.

Silverflames · 08-23-2012, 09:21 PM

Well I’m doing some thing about the same. Take a look at my link.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/rear-end-separation-short-term-fix-90941.html

I started just wanting to fix the rear end separation, but discovered that the rear frame was very rusty and had to be replaced. I replaced the back 2 feet on side, and about 4 feet on the other. The frame was so rusty that after I cut the bolts free on one side, I was able to bend the frame back with one hand. I have replaced about 3 out riggers on the rear end, and reinforced one of the floor joists. A couple of years ago, I also replaced the front frame, from the door all they to hitch. For the frame, I have been using galv .25 “ thick, 5” Channel, and painted with por 15. After replacing almost 50 % of the frame so far, its clear why people do the shell off and replace the whole frame. Since I have a family and work that’s not an option for my life at this time. So I will keep fixing piece by piece.
I would cut the main frame rails off at behind the axels were the frame is sagging. Replace it with new .25” 5” channel. Overlap the weld by 12” past the weld with .25” L shaped (angle Iron) and run it all the way past the front of the axles. I would weld one on the inner side of the top and bottom of the c-channel. On the out side of the weld, scab on a piece of flat plate over the weld at least 6” long. You could replace the frame all in one piece, or one side at a time.
The floor joist can be rebuilt with 1/8” angle iron. The outriggers I just bought from Outdoors Mart, it seemed easier than making them.

Now since I just did this, and set my AS on fire, please don’t make the same mistakes I did.

1. Have a spotter while you are welding
2. Have a water hose within reach
3. Clean out all possible flammable stuff, spray foam, old carpent, rotten wood, ect..
4. Spray everything down with water in the area to limit the flame up risk.
5. I should start a Welding Safety Thread…

And a side thought, you might want to check your axles, and the floor in the area that your repairing. If the frame is that rotted, how is the floor?

Good luck, keep chipping away at it. Soon it will be done, or you will have the shell off.

Silverflames · 08-23-2012, 09:24 PM

Oh yea, were are the pics??

dkrukosky · 08-28-2012, 06:09 AM

I have been making slow progress on the frame repair. replaced most of the out riggers and in this photo you can see where i have repaired one of the worst sections of the frame. right behind the rear wheel where the frame sagged. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lYp3JOyk8k...-23-26_838.jpg

and in this picture I have boxed in the main frame rail
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DixoBqM-gv...-23-40_765.jpg

M2HB · 08-28-2012, 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkrukosky

I have been making slow progress on the frame repair. replaced most of the out riggers and in this photo you can see where i have repaired one of the worst sections of the frame. right behind the rear wheel where the frame sagged. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lYp3JOyk8k...-23-26_838.jpg

and in this picture I have boxed in the main frame rail
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DixoBqM-gv...-23-40_765.jpg

It looks like you are doing a great job. That sure is a lot of work.

dkrukosky · 09-04-2012, 11:13 AM

nearly completed the boxing in of the main frame rails

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZlGjkwwj9...-04-14_808.jpg

Silverflames · 09-04-2012, 11:20 AM

Looking good, your welds look much better than mine! What kind of welder are you using? What are you going to finish the frame with? Por 15?

dkrukosky · 09-04-2012, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keithgrowe

Looking good, your welds look much better than mine! What kind of welder are you using? What are you going to finish the frame with? Por 15?

Well my latest welds are getting better but it has been a learning experience. I am using a stick welder. I am going to use POR 15, I have two quarts that I ordered and I am hoping that will be enough. I plan to spray it on.

Wabbiteer · 09-04-2012, 12:04 PM

I kinda urge you to do both brush & spray coating the frame...

Examples:
► The weight-reducing 'lightening' holes in the spars and outriggers will eat a lot of paint when you're trying for even coverage around the stamped edges & voids. Brushing those first will stretch the coverage considerably.
► The underside of every spar, outrigger & ladder frame brushed to be sure you have a thick even coating to better weather aluminum contact.
► Brush every (new?) weld to be sure there's no voids the spray coverage. Beside POR makes a great glue too.. (just kidding)
► Brush the tank(s) retaining bars.
► Brush soak the axle mounting plate top weld line and the circular recesses to seal the gaps.

This is one of those do it first or do it later things... a year later my asphalt driveway still has a wonderful silver mist glaze AND I just went through a pint of POR laying on a mechanics' creeper touching up missed/light spots...

Silverflames · 09-05-2012, 06:55 AM

Your right about the glue! I hit my rusty battery stand with por 15 and set it down on the plywood under the AS to dry. there was a few drips that ran down and dried onto the ply wood. I was pretty surprised how much force it took to pull it free. It took pieces of plywood up with it..

dkrukosky · 09-11-2012, 10:39 AM

Ok most of the major frame repairs are done one major issue remains the tung A frame rails directly below the front of the shell are badly pitted with rust. still feels solid and no through holes but I am thinking while I have easy access maybe I should reinforce some how any suggestions on what would be strongest or weaken the area the least? If I weld U shaped sleeves around the area will I weaken the metal at the welds? here is a photo of the area I am talking about.

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lUUeiZefxu...2_134+copy.jpg