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09-21-2003, 06:15 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Frame Repair
I've removed mosr of the floor in my '61 Overlander (one section left in front). Now I'm looking at getting started with the frame repair. All the sections in between the main rails are scrap but the rails themselves are not too bad, although there are some parts of the main rails which are badly pitted and I will have to come up with a way to reinforce them. The alternative is to have a local trailer repair outfit make me a new frame.
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09-21-2003, 06:40 PM
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#2
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RivetAddict
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Louisville
, Kentucky
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,861
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Wow!
Very impressive! I can't believe how far we'll go to keep our beauties alive. I'm sure more will chime in on this and since I'm a MH owner maybe I'm poorly qualified to offer advice but looking at your damage I wonder about the new frame option? Seems like you would be replacing 60% - 70% of the frame anyway.
Good luck with whatever you choose and your project.
__________________
Steven Webster
1986 Airstream 345 Classic Motorhome
AIR 1760
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09-21-2003, 06:57 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Hmmmmm I hate to say it.......Might be time for a new frame. I think Steven has a point
If 1 or two of the cross members were bad I could see replacing them. I count 5 for sure maybe 6 just from that picture. By the time you cut out the bad ones and make a new ones your talking a lot of labor. If somebody elses is doing the welding work this is going to be a materials against labor deal. They may actullay be able to make a new frame with less labor then it will take to repair that one. The new frame might be cheaper.
Second thing is going with a new frame would alow you to extend the tounge some and give you room for a battery box on the tounge.
I'm surpised to see your frame is C channel. Mine appears to be box the whole lenght. it definatly is on the tounge and from the last rib back.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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09-21-2003, 06:57 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 158
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If I was doing that I would use your existing frame for a pattern and build a new one. Maybe even a little stronger. You have what looks like a lot of rust/rot there to repair and fabrication of a new one may be easier cleaner and quicker. I will say I don't have a complete look at it as you do so you have a better look than any of us will.
Good Luck on those Repairs let us know how they go.
__________________
Greg
1976 Soveriegn 31'
F250 Turbo 7.3L Diesel
WBCCI # 3516
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09-21-2003, 09:31 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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I might go against the concensus here depending on the main rails. It would be pretty easy to build a jig and fabricate the crossmembers out of 2x2x1/8" angle and some 1/8" flat stock.
These frames are unique to Airstream. Most trailer places use tube or C channel and it will be a lot heavier than what you have. To really replicate it you will have to find one with a shear and brake to make the channel, and that is labor intensive work.
It really depends on how bad the main rails are and your skill with a torch and welder.
John
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09-21-2003, 09:53 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Frame repair
I guess I'm lucky. I only need to replace a short section where the water tank leaked, and the very rear cross menmber.
Nice job of bracing the shell.
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09-22-2003, 06:00 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
South Shore
, Kentucky
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 537
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I really enjoy the pictures; keep them coming!
Knowing that this can be done if needed, gives a better feeling in the event I may need to jump in and do the same thing sometime.
__________________
Visit our church on the web!
"A safe camper is a Happy Camper"
Bill & Donna
Air Forums Member # 2360
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09-22-2003, 06:13 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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I spent whole weekend pulling up floor and cleaning up mouse droppings so did not have time to clean scale from frame.The main "C" channel looks salvageable with some reinforcement.I will have to replace all cross members and have the mig welder and access to brake and shear at work.
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09-22-2003, 06:31 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
LOST
, Hawaii
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,193
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Quote:
have the mig welder and access to brake and shear at work
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You've got it made then. I looked at all the outriggers and thought about having to flame or plasma cut them, axle mounts, etc. It is always the small stuff that ends up taking hours and hours.
John
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10-28-2003, 10:55 PM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Just thought I would throw in a progress report. When I removed the last floorboard I found the rust was pretty bad on top of "C" channel so I have decided to replace frame.
I had the "C" channel delivered last week and have bent it to match the shape of old frame.While I was working on that a woman came by and told me she had a 1974 31ft Airstream for sale. I showed her what I was doing and she told me that she used to work at a nearby metal shop that could make the crossmembers for me. They made 12 crossmembers for $75CDN (about $55 US).I ordered the remainder of the steel from them yesterday and hope to start welding this weekend.
I also had the new axles delivered last week an outfit in Calgary was able to custom make the axles with brakes in just 3 days for $515CDN (about $365 US).
http://www.standens.com
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10-28-2003, 11:18 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Nice work~
greg176
I looked at the site for your axles and, was very impressed with the format/presentation of the detailed information~!!
Too bad that the company that makes axles for the Airstream can't be as forward with the "details" listing~(if it exist, I haven't as of yet seen it~)
Based on what you're doing and, what I saw once at the factory in Ohio..It seems that the "frame replacement" stage is the one thing a vast majority of us will be faced with sooner or later.
It would seem that, we as a group, should demand that Airstream go the extra mile in providing a better frame than those used in the past. As usual, it's one of those things, "out of sight..out of mind". Until someone has frame sag and/or rotten floor replacement repairs, when the problem is discovered.
My hat off to you for taking the time, money and, care to keep your unit is top shape..
ciao
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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10-29-2003, 10:16 AM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Greg:
Just took a good look at your frame. I didn't know that your main rails were also C. Both mark and our 59's are boxed main frame rails. Infact Mark found on his coach that atleast the front part of the frame has a second box slid inside of the frame rails. I still have not confirmed if mine is the same.
last night on chat there was a little discussion about C and box frames. We were trying to decide if that was a difference between the factory's. Ours is a Ohio and I am pretty sure Mark's as well. Knowing your location I bet your's is a California coach.
Also how thick is the steel in the main rails? On mine the box is 1/8 wall as iss the C channel crossmembers.
Eric
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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10-29-2003, 11:13 AM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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My coach was made in Ohio.The frame rails are a standard size "C" channel (about 1/8") on side.
They have welded on 1/8" to tongue back to just past bend to make a box and have welded on a 1/8" reinforcement to flat part on inside of rail at axle area.
The cross members are 14 gage steel bent to shape.
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10-29-2003, 11:36 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1959 22' Caravanner
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,197
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Quote:
Originally posted by greg176
My coach was made in Ohio.The frame rails are a standard size "C" channel (about 1/8") on side.
They have welded on 1/8" to tongue back to just past bend to make a box and have welded on a 1/8" reinforcement to flat part on inside of rail at axle area.
The cross members are 14 gage steel bent to shape.
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Well That shoots that theroy to hell.
I wonder what reason they went from box to C? I have heard some of the 50's models with leaf spring were C. That rules out the change happening when They went to the torsion axles. Length doesn't seem to matter. Mines 22, Marks is 24. You would think yours would be more likely to be box then mine.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
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11-29-2003, 05:42 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1984 29' Sovereign
Savannah
, Missouri
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,478
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Did you mean
59toaster
Quote:
Well That shoots that theroy to hell.
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Did you mean "The Roy" or theory ?
ciao
__________________
WBCCI 5292 AIR 807
NEU #64
New England Unit
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11-29-2003, 10:36 AM
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#16
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,254
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I guess from the looks of it the frame metal was originally unprotected? What are you going to do to protect the new frame you put in from further damage when things leak in the future? Too bad it's too big to powdercoat.
You guys doing shell-off repairs are the heros of our hobby! Keep up the good work - saving those old AS!
__________________
Stephanie
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11-29-2003, 04:31 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
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Frame repair
Stephanie, I don't know what Greg is doing, but my frame got totally brushed and sandblasted, then two full coats of POR-15 followed by a matt black topcoat. So far I've spent about $300 on paint and brushes.
The original paint on the frame was a thin coat of black lacquer.
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04-30-2004, 05:23 PM
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#18
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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I spent the winter building a new frame on top of the old one. The frame "C" channel came in 20 ft lengths so I built the first 20 ft of new trailer first inside shell to keep the rain off.I took last week off of work to swap out the old frame with the new. I had to torch up the old frame then drop the new frame down on the new axles then roll it forward and level.With the added height of the new axles I had to lift the shell about six inches then level everything.I spent the week installing axles,welding on outriggers,grinding and painting.This weekend I am going to build up last six feet of frame.
Here is a photo of shell just before I dropped new frame down.I will attach more photos of frame as soon as I have finished back end.Looking forward to getting a floor in.
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05-03-2004, 11:28 PM
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#19
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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A shot of the new frame at front stub frame. Managed to get last six feet of frame welded in this weekend.Still pondering graywater tank before finishing.
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05-06-2004, 08:04 PM
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#20
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4 Rivet Member
1961 26' Overlander
Gabriola Island
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 474
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Another shot of frame.
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