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Old 11-07-2013, 08:39 AM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
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St. Paul , Minnesota
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It's called 'paint-over-rust" for a reason as it needs grease/oil free texture to key into else it might/can peel off like the shrink wrap on a box of chocolates.

POR-15 is a really thin paint (a little will go a long way) and the thin body carries it deep into the surface pores. It has some fierce carrier solvents that then evaporate to allow the real cure to kick in that gives it the hard-as-glass finish. Using a wire brush then the 3M-style abrasive pad biscuits should have rusted areas ready to paint - it's the unrusted areas that cause problems.

I gotta note here the frame paint on my 72/73 trailers is/was more a waxy creosote-asphalt undercoat than paint judging by the throw-off from the wire brush - and even bright metal surfaces ran yellow/brown when hit with carb cleaner spray from the residues left behind (I used about eight cans of Chemtool B-12) Originally I tried not to shell-off my trailer so did my frame twice, once with floor-on and the second time with shell-off, the areas slathered with POR over decent original paint from the first time would peel away in large flakes when the wire brush hit it. I'd guess the POR-15 carrier solvents melted some of the OEM paint altering the finished product, painting only the rusted areas and letting the catalysts kick then overpainting the entire area would be a worthy step.

However there was no/low new corrosion on overcoated areas compared to the inside ladder frame (protected?) areas I simply wiped down and sprayed with Rustoleum.

The Metal Prep product precipitates zinc crystals onto smooth bare iron to give POR-15 something to bite to, done correctly it leaves the surface resembling 1000-grit sandpaper. If you get enthusiastic and have a bunch of bare unrusted metal its the way to go.

Beware of the single-step rust conversion paints - I've seen the plastic finish result be completely undercut leaving one big blister of shiny black paint on my truck differential cover, to the point it almost perforated in just a few years.

Ah, so... Here is a link to my latest resto thread for your amusement.
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Old 11-15-2013, 06:13 PM   #16
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1977 31' Excella 500
Zavalla , Texas
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Well, we got one side frame rail welded up today and also took a lot of time aligning the back plate with the holes to do so. I am beyond pleased with the way it came out and how much torsional strength it has now. It's a night and day difference. I think the rail got straightened out more than I could have hoped in the process. One outrigger ahead of the one we are replacing is firmly pushing up into the floor now whereas before there was a gap on top from where we had jacked up the flooring around it. We also strengthened the top weld on that one. If the trailer were jacked up another 8 to 10 feet I feel I could swing from it! And I'm not a little guy.

Tomorrow we install the new outrigger at the wheel well. We mocked it up with how we will hold it in place while doing so and it should go in nicely. Just a bit worried about welding up against the subfloor as it is sandwiched back in where we won't have a lot of access as the wheel well cover is still in place and sits above the outrigger and floor in that area.

It's my first time welding and it has been going quite well, even though I set my pants on fire.
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Old 02-09-2014, 04:29 PM   #17
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Tallguy...did you MIG weld the outriggers and frame? Just wondering. Thanks!

Bob
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Old 02-09-2014, 11:00 PM   #18
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Yep, I did just use a basic mig welder from Harbor Freight. It was their basic model that runs off 120v so that was convenient. I was also using a Lincoln welder that was loaned to me to learn on but had to return that before being able to get to the outrigger. But I was pleasantly surprised at how well the harbor freight unit worked -- though I'm such a novice I'm not sure how much that observation is worth. It was a lot harder to do the vertical welding than I expected (vs my practicing flat). It didn't end up looking as pretty as I would have liked but it seems strong as heck.
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