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Old 06-20-2008, 01:54 PM   #15
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Now you're talking my language

Kip
Yes, and if you were a 1000 miles closer I would worm you into helping me.
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:05 PM   #16
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I think you are potentially way off on this. Most top notch (I.e. GSM, David Winik, etc) professional shops would charge significantly more for a total restoration. From one of those shops you are probably looking for 20-30K just to fix any frame issues, put a new floor in, and re-zolatone. Add in cash for new insulation, dent / panel repair / replacement, new electrics, cabanets, new axles, etc and you are easily going to double that and possible triple it.

My 2 cents (or more)....
...which is why I put the "+". With regards to having one of the "top notch craftsman shops" do it...if you have to ask, you can't afford it! And if the price of a new trailer or probably more for a restoration doesn't scare you off...go for it! Otherwise DIY.

Shari
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:12 PM   #17
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Yes, and if you were a 1000 miles closer I would worm you into helping me.
Like me! Well, at least Kip taught us how to rivet ~ nothing beats his one-on-one demo! Heck, we even let him buck a few...betcha can't tell which ones! Yeah, right ~

Thanks again neighbor ~

Shari
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:45 PM   #18
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I don't know, the price tag on one of David Winnick's that he sold was $35,000 (a '68 Caravel found here-- vintage airstream and other classic travel trailers ).

But I'm sure they can escalate much higher depending on the choices you make for materials, fixtures, and finishes.
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Old 06-20-2008, 02:58 PM   #19
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I don't know, the price tag on one of David Winnick's that he sold was $35,000 (a '68 Caravel found here-- vintage airstream and other classic travel trailers ).

But I'm sure they can escalate much higher depending on the choices you make for materials, fixtures, and finishes.

Wow. $35,000 is a bargain compared to the prices that I've seen for a fraction of the work that's gone into other trailers. I have personally spoken to two guys that have had work done at a professional shop. The prices they paid would make your hair curl. I don't want to give exact figures, but if you pick a price that you think is high, double it.

I'm not saying that these restoration shops are doing anything wrong. They are charging what the market will bear. More power to them. I understand they are very busy, so their prices must not be "too high". I would just caution anyone to price any professional work before jumping into a restoration. For me, if I wasn't doing it myself I would be financially unable to do it.
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Old 06-20-2008, 03:08 PM   #20
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Perhaps that's a really old price, or not the actual price paid? Not sure, it definitely seemed low to me, too, for a trailer reno designed by David Winnick.

At any rate, I agree with you, I may end up shopping some of the work out (on my ...ummm... as yet unobtained trailer... ), but I'll do the majority of the work myself, over whatever amount of time it ends up taking.

First, because I enjoy that type of work, and second, because I couldn't afford to pay someone else do it.
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Old 06-20-2008, 03:19 PM   #21
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Perhaps that's a really old price, or not the actual price paid? Not sure, it definitely seemed low to me, too, for a trailer reno designed by David Winnick.

At any rate, I agree with you, I may end up shopping some of the work out (on my ...ummm... as yet unobtained trailer... ), but I'll do the majority of the work myself, over whatever amount of time it ends up taking.

First, because I enjoy that type of work, and second, because I couldn't afford to pay someone else do it.
Don't worry Marcus. Your trailer is waiting for you somewhere. The hunt is almost as much fun as the work (although I'm sure having a working, useable Airstream will be the most fun of all). Find your trailer, then enjoy the anxiety that comes with the restoration!
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Old 06-20-2008, 03:52 PM   #22
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I have seen a professionally restored 73 Safari that was beautiful and the price was 54K. I hope my Gt comes out as nice.
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Old 06-20-2008, 04:30 PM   #23
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I looked back over my notes from the conversation I had with a professional shop at the time I was doing the evaluations. The figure was roughly $19,000 and that wasn't an actual bid that was just a ball park working number. That figure apparently included a new frame, axles, tanks, subfloor, floor insulation, belly pan and restore/polish exterior skins. Now that I think about it that sounds like a pretty good deal! But that's minus all the fun so I decided to do it myself.
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:37 PM   #24
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Wow, I surpirsed how many people have seen this already! Thanks very much for all your input!
I do intend on spending a pretty penny to fix this, that's OK. We were looking for a 66-68 because we really like the windows, layout and the narrower width - not to mention how light it is.
I will be doing all the cabinetry, electrical, plumbing, wiring and remove/re-install all the interior panels myself - I have no problems there and look forward to it. What I want to hire is the belly pan re-installation, floor replacement and frame repair.
We have budgeted already on replacing ALL systems. A/C, water heater, fridge, furnace, axles, upholstery, etc. The only old stuff we are using is the cabinetry (in excellent condition), cooktop and oven. It's probably waay more money than the old beast would be worth but it's worth it to us.
Does anyone know if I remove the interior skin and belly pan, can I then tow what's left to a repair facility without causing damage? Or would the trailer require the interior skin for transport? I think with the belly pan removed (I'll do this myself) I can get some good quotes then hopefully intend on hiring the frame and floor. I don't do welding (scary thought) and don't have the facilities to remove the shell. If I can do all the other work then transport it, great. If it can't be transported without the interior skin and belly pan then I need a new plan of attack.
Thanks again everyone!!!!
Ryan
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:55 PM   #25
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If it is all stripped out I would not worry to much about not haveing them. I towed mine over 1000 miles with thr old xle and no interior skin with zero problems. As a matter of fact I plan on using it all summer as an aluminum tent with no interior or interior skins.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...nte-26902.html
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Old 06-21-2008, 06:40 AM   #26
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Does anyone know if I remove the interior skin and belly pan, can I then tow what's left to a repair facility without causing damage?
Ryan
Kip,

Did you tow yours without the belly pan? I wasn't sure how much the monocoque design depended on the belly and banana wrap. Once I get my subfloor in I was thinking of towing mine to a friend's shop (about 5 miles) to put the belly pan back on. It is on grass now and the smooth slab at the shop would make it easier for me to scoot around underneath.

Do you or anyone else have an opinion on this?
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Old 06-21-2008, 09:16 AM   #27
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Kip,

Did you tow yours without the belly pan? I wasn't sure how much the monocoque design depended on the belly and banana wrap. Once I get my subfloor in I was thinking of towing mine to a friend's shop (about 5 miles) to put the belly pan back on. It is on grass now and the smooth slab at the shop would make it easier for me to scoot around underneath.

Do you or anyone else have an opinion on this?
Vernon, the frame is stronger than you think at least the frame was in my Ambassador. The upper shell, which is probably the primary towing concern, is "rooted" to the frame through the floor channel much less so through the belly wrap and even less so through the belly pan. So other than maintaining a strong "root" for the shell the only other concern would seem to be providing support for the structure of the upper shell. That support seems to come through the ribs and the skins rather than through the wraps or the pan. My thinking is you should have no problem towing a short distance probably even a long distance without the pan and wraps. IMO
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:34 AM   #28
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Kip,

Did you tow yours without the belly pan? I wasn't sure how much the monocoque design depended on the belly and banana wrap. Once I get my subfloor in I was thinking of towing mine to a friend's shop (about 5 miles) to put the belly pan back on. It is on grass now and the smooth slab at the shop would make it easier for me to scoot around underneath.

Do you or anyone else have an opinion on this?
Yes I towed it about Ten miles without the belly pan but the banana wraps were installed. I towed it for the same reason, to get it onto concrete instead of the crushed granite I was working on. Plus I have access to better tooling at my house verses my dads' place.
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