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Old 04-02-2007, 08:03 PM   #29
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1978 31' Sovereign
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Some Bad Outriggers

Removed most of the curbside beltline and banana skins this week end. Outriggers forward of wheel are in bad shape. This was caused by the bannana skins being overlapped on top of the side skin under the beltline trim so when it rained runoff leaked into the belly and really did a job on the outriggers. (One of the pictures should show the skin gap/ fit up near the back awning mount).The main frame rails are rusted in places but look reasonably solid from what I have seen so far.

One result of the bad outriggers front of the wheels is that the shell seems to have sagged as you can sort of make out looking at the outrigger at the wheelwell. This has resulted in the edge of the trailer being on the order of an inch maybe sagging relative to the main frame rail. I am hoping I can jack up the perimeter to take this sag out and have a welder reinforce the outriggers. Anyone seen a similar problem due to bad outriggers and fixed it this way?

The outriggers toward the back (from the rear wheel on back) are rusted but all still there so should be able to reinforce. The rear floor is severely rotted and can be seen drooping in one picture.
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:10 PM   #30
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Rear Curbside Outriggers

My last post did not show the rear curbside outriggers. This is a view looking at then from the rear of the trailer. These are in much better shape than the outriggers forward of the wheels. Note the floor rot in the foreground of the rear floor section.
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Old 04-02-2007, 08:19 PM   #31
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That damage is not from rain water entering the bannana skin!

How was the pink insulation in those areas?

I'll take a guess it was all balled up and wet.
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:22 PM   #32
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You should be able to carefully jack up the body in places where it has sagged so that the outriggers can be restored underneath it. I would suggest that you avoid lifting it higher than necessary though because of extra stress that it might put on the inner skins and etc. I would think if you jacked it up to just to where it was supposed to be that you could redo the outrigger underneath it.

Malcolm
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Old 04-02-2007, 09:36 PM   #33
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This is my first thread and I had some problems getting onto new forums.
Need some input about repainting a 1978 argosy. After very light cleaning and covering any bare aluminum with zinc chromate. What primer would be best, also which would be the best Acrylic Enamel or Acrylic Lacquer and then with a clear coat. Or is there a better way? can some one start a paint thread.
Thanks
Bill Catlin
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:05 PM   #34
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Bob,

Fromwhat I can recall the insulation did not seem allthat bad in the outrigger section. It seemed in quite good shape inside the main frame rails for sure. That is why I suspect leakage through the seam; there was absolutely no sealant. Definitely when I put it back together I will put some sealer (vulcum I presume).

Malcolm,

Thanks for the comments on jacking up the sagged body. The top angle iron type part of the outriggers seem to be all there so I will try to jack up carefully as you have suggested and get a welder to repair, as well as reinforce the frame where required. By the way, when looking for a welder what type of welding should I ask for MIG? TIG? or other?

Got quite a job ahead it looks.

Biil,

On the painting use the search function. I recall seeing a few good threads discussing the relative merits; apparently if you get a good paint job it is low maintenance, looks good and lasts a long time. I may go that route myself if I get that far.

John.
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Old 04-03-2007, 08:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toga
Bob,

Fromwhat I can recall the insulation did not seem allthat bad in the outrigger section. It seemed in quite good shape inside the main frame rails for sure. That is why I suspect leakage through the seam; there was absolutely no sealant. Definitely when I put it back together I will put some sealer (vulcum I presume).

If the insulation was good how did the metal rust a way?

I think you should not seal the skins, let the water run thru, if the metal is painted with por-15 it can get wet and will not rust.
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Old 04-03-2007, 09:14 PM   #36
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John,

Did you also find floor rot in the same general areas where the outriggers were badly rusted? I think that it is a good idea to seal the joint along the bottom edge of the body where it attaches to the banana wrap under the trim. This is not so much because of the frame but because the edge of the plywood subfloor can get wet from this joint. I agree that it is a good idea to allow water in the belly pan to get out some how but I don't think we need to encourage water getting in there to begin with more than necessary - especially relative to the subfloor. I added a good bead of Vulkem under the rub rail to seal things up before putting the rub rail back on.

Malcolm
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:23 PM   #37
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Bob,

I am not sure how the metal rusted away. I will look more closely when I do the other side. I hope to do the POR-15 or possibly fluid film (I have found this very effective on car bodies/ frames but am not sure on longevity), or both, when the day comes that the frame is fixed.

Malcolm,

I am certainly favouring the seal on the overlap of the trailer side skin and bannana skin. I can't see where the current configuration serves any useful purpose; it seems a detriment as it seems a certain entry point for water intrusion. From what I have seen of home building (very little I might add) it seems particualr attention is paid to flashing with proper over lap at roof edges, etc. to avoid water entry. In the case of the airstream I would have thought the bannana skin would be under the side skin.

On this matter and water/ condensation pooling in the belly pan in general, what about a semi permeable belly skin fabric perhaps with a skrim to give it strength and tear resistance, any thoughts - it would seem like it would help solve/ mitigate the problem.
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:35 PM   #38
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Oh wow....serious project..

Get out the beer...and welder..!!
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Old 04-04-2007, 08:48 PM   #39
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I believe sealing it will trap dirt, the dirt will hold moisture, then rust.

Also sealing the top isn't going to keep water out when you go down the road in the rain at 60mph. The water wil go up into it, with pressure.

Leave it all open to drain don't seal the bottom of the bannana skin to the belly pan either......hey that's my take on it!

But do seal the edge of the plywood floor with epoxy resin.

Re insulate with foil bubble and your good for another 30 years.
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Old 05-04-2007, 08:21 PM   #40
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Water and Wastewater Tank Removal

Most of belly pan is off. Any trick to removing water and wastewater tanks from below? I have the service manual and it looks easy - is this misleading? It says to disconnect the hoses before dropping the water tank and pan; do you disconnect hoses from the inside because it doesn't look like you can get at them from below with the pan on. Can you take the pan off and will the water tank still be supported so that you can disconnect the hoses and sensor connections? Same question for black and grey water tanks.
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Old 05-04-2007, 11:11 PM   #41
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Hoses and wires

My fresh water tank had hoses and wires. Hoses are accessable behind the stove on floor in mine. Wires are for fluid level indicators.
I used a floor jack with a jig to spread the weight as mine was full.
Mark how it comes off so you can put it back together.

R
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Old 05-05-2007, 07:04 AM   #42
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It looks like you and I are in the same boat. As far as the outriggers go I would buy new. I ended up doing that and they only cost $15 - $20 each. The tanks are a piece of cake to take out. Make sure they are empty, remove pan, disconnect wiring and the few hoses and they will drop down. The black tank is held up with the toilet. It has a flange that screws into the tank itself. The front water tank is the same way. Remove a couple hoses, and remove the heater duct going to the tank also.
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