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Old 07-17-2015, 08:18 AM   #1
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2000 27' Safari
Naples , Florida
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Flooring Repair 1999 Safari-Suggestions?

So in our 1999 Safari we have the twin bed configuration and in the rear outside compartment I found the rear 3 feet of the trailer to be totally rotten from the leak between the bumper and belt line.
So we were planning on removing the carpet and laying AS quality vinyl flooring down as we use our AS for work and the carpet is too hard to keep clean and after 15 years its time.

I've tried to soak up as much information as possible but I few things maybe I could get some additional input on:

I plan to use 5/8" Marine Plywood and treat the perimeter with epoxy / waterproofing to better protect it.
If I fix the leak I just think the Coosa Composite at $215 a sheet not including delivery is a bit of over kill.

I think I will need to remove my belly pan to gain access to the chassis so I can install the elevator bolts.
Is this correct?
On the plywood repair the 5/8" material is needed to fit inside the C-Chanel?

I plan to remove all of the cabinets and furniture from the unit as I want to install a 1/8" or 1/4" sheet of material over the sub floor so I can lay the vinyl floor down.
What material do you recommend?

I do not think AS glues the flooring down and only staples it at the perimeter but the flooring manufacture recommends me to glue it down with their adhesive.

BTW this is the same supplier of flooring to AS and that is what is a little confusing to me.

Will I need to remove the inner skin at all?
If I do I have the fuzzy carpet type of material on the inside of the walls will this re-glue down?

Most importantly how do I fix the leak? Do I need to remove the beltline and or bumper to correctly seal this joint?
Do I seal it it from inside the trailer after the demo is completed?

We are pretty handy with normal residential type of projects but this is the first time diving into the Airstream as we bought this unit used about a year ago.

Any input or recommendations will greatly be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill
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Old 07-17-2015, 11:14 AM   #2
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See my responses below in blue, note that I didn't address the questions about flooring that I don't have experience with:

I plan to use 5/8" Marine Plywood and treat the perimeter with epoxy / waterproofing to better protect it.
If I fix the leak I just think the Coosa Composite at $215 a sheet not including delivery is a bit of over kill.

I used marine plywood on my floor repair as well, but in retrospect, I figure plain old construction grade plywood from the big box store would have been just fine. It seems that it is more important to seal it than what grade the wood is. Are you replacing your entire subfloor, or just the back sheet?

I think I will need to remove my belly pan to gain access to the chassis so I can install the elevator bolts.
Is this correct? Yes
On the plywood repair the 5/8" material is needed to fit inside the C-Chanel?
I don't know about your specific year, but measure what you have, and match it.

Will I need to remove the inner skin at all? You will need to remove the lower sections of inner skin so that you have access to the bolts and screws that hold the C-channel down.
If I do I have the fuzzy carpet type of material on the inside of the walls will this re-glue down? Yes

Most importantly how do I fix the leak? Do I need to remove the beltline and or bumper to correctly seal this joint?
There is a well documented fix for this issue. Do a search for "rear end separation," and you should find several threads. To sum it up, you will create an "L" shaped piece of aluminum flashing that goes up into the skin, and the lower part of the "L" extends out toward the bumper trunk. This will direct the water away from the joint at the rear of the trailer. You will need to disassemble the bumper trunk and beltline to do this right.
Do I seal it it from inside the trailer after the demo is completed?
Seal from the inside and the outside.

Good luck!
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:27 PM   #3
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2000 27' Safari
Naples , Florida
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Thanks for the reply,.....
I checked with Airstream and my model year the 5\8" plywood and C Channel was used.

I really only want to replace the bad portion of floor as long as the leak is fixed I think the floor should last.

If I find a large portion of the floor is damaged and rotten then I would replace all parts at the floor that needed it.

I'll look up the proper repair as I want to perform the fix correctly.
I bought new rub rail an belt line chrome trim inserts while at Airstream last week and I plan to put the time and effort it to repair the leak correctly.

While the sub-floors are exposed and the trailer is empty is there any other repairs I should preform before the re-installation??
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Old 07-25-2015, 07:16 PM   #4
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Can you please post pics as you go. I'm planning to start my project in a couple of months.


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Old 07-25-2015, 07:27 PM   #5
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I think the new Airstreams got rid of the rear hold down plate but I am sure there are bolts back there that you will have to remove the belly skin to get to. You can install the elevator bolts from the top but you will have to thread the beams and cross members. Drill a pocket with a spade bit for the elevator bolts to fit into. Then drill a through hole through the floor and metal underneath. Now thread holes using a 1/4-20 tap then install bolts from the top. Bolts are at the rear that you will need to have access to the inside and below. Remove belly skins and inner skins to access these bolts. I think regular 5/8 plywood is fine but I would urethane coat it. Best to leave floor naked where it is hidden. Also consider installing moisture detectors. There are also a few sheet metal screws holding the floor up from the top side of the c-channel. Remove inner skins and all will be clear.

Perry
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