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Old 11-01-2007, 10:51 PM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
Conover , Ohio
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floor soon?

Well, I have my 66 Overlander pretty empty. But to get to the edge bolts to replace the rear floor section (from the yellow line back) I need to get under panel "A", which is under panel "B", which is under panel "C". Is it worth removing all this, or can I cut panel "A" along the red line to save the time and effort. This whole area is covered by the tub and sink anyway.

Once the edge bolts are out, and the floor is cut, I think the floor section will slide out the left side (right in the pic) of the trailer. I assume I will have to loosen the edge bolts further up the trailer to help gain some room for the old floor to come out and new to go back in.

Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks, Tom
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:01 AM   #2
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1963 16' Bambi
Yreka , California
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Hello,

I certainly don't have the expertise to give you a suggestion, but I wouldn't cut on line A from what experience I have and have observed. It would be a short panel and I am not sure how the strength would be afterwards. Besides aren't the interior end panels in your trailer fiberglass? I know the end panels in our 1963 were... (I think it was fiberglass, definitely other than aluminum) I am not positive, but in our opening like you have under your window... there might be blind rivits in there somewhere... so cutting a line on A could make it very difficult to fix. I would also check to see if in your model the belly pan comes up in there somewhere in the c channel and the bolts...

There are a number of threads where folks have replaced only a portion of their floor. I would do a search. I know I have seen them and with pictures too.

My hubby replaced our entire floor and he discusses it in various places in his thread. I will give you a link, but you will have to scroll thru the pages to find all the info.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...mbi-17925.html

Good luck! Hopefully someone with more expertise than I have will jump in and give their advice!

Mrs. NorCal Bambi (traveling in S Tardis ~ from the Great State of Jefferson)
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Old 11-02-2007, 06:16 AM   #3
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1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha , Wisconsin
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I drilled out the rivets and removed the panels as-is. The rear panel will slide out the back/side. When I did mine a took a cue from PizzaChop and pulled the bumper/frame down to create the space to slide out the floor. I used a yellow tie-down strap... don't worry the frame comes right back up as you (slowly) let the tension off the strap. See pict below:
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Old 11-02-2007, 08:25 AM   #4
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To clarify... you can remove the bottom panels without removing the upper panels. Just drill out the rivets and slide them to the side and out.
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Old 11-02-2007, 12:03 PM   #5
Cos
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Would cutting an interior panel like suggested cause structural concerns?
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cos
Would cutting an interior panel like suggested cause structural concerns?
Not if you put enough rivets in them when you put them back. You'd need to add a "splice" plate at the cut line.

If you have the trailer gutted there is no reason to
"cut" the panels.

In the straight sections you could even just drill out the vertical rivet lines and roll the panels up from the bottom.
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Old 11-02-2007, 01:29 PM   #7
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You would need a new oversize sheet to overlap the patch back in with Vulkem between liner sheets and many pop rivets to try and restore the stiffness the original panel had when it was complete and tied into the floor channel.

Of course one patch will not outright damage the whole trailer but if there is slack elsewhere from damaged outriggers or frame sag etc. you may set up future movement patterns that might show up on opposite corner of trailer - running gear vibrations and road hazards always find the weaknesses.

The hidden rivets under the upper panels can be sheared off using a sharp wood chisel and careful positioning and a few taps of a hammer - to replace the hidden ones is just more difficult locating everything and getting rivet tool under the hanging panel.

I think though once you see the conditions under the lower panel you will not hesitate pulling the others..
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Old 11-02-2007, 10:01 PM   #8
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plan 1 and plan 2

Thanks for all the input. The only reason I thought I might cut along the red line is that panel "A", which is heavy gauge aluminum, is that it is completely covered by the sink/tub combo anyway. It is also tucked under the upper fiberglass panel by 8 to 10 inches, which will be a real problem putting back those pesky blind rivets. So, plan 1 is to drill out some more rivets on the upper "B" panel along the front edge and around the window. Hopefully this will loosen it up enough to give me the room I need to get the lower panel out. My main concern here is cracking the fiberglass. If I can't get it loose enough to suit me, plan 2 is to make the cut. A cut panel that nobody will ever see, doesn't bother me, and I will make sure it is as strong as the original when I am done.

Once I get to the sides of the trailer, I do plan to "roll up" the panels along the floor so I can double-check the plywood edges for rot. I saw several posts concerning rotten floors near the door, but mine looks excellent there. My only other floor problem so far is some minor water damage (pic) from a leaky front vent. I scratched away all the dry wood and it seems as sturdy as the rest of the floor. I think I will just use body filler to level it back out. If that doesn't suit me, I will just cut out the bad area and patch it.

One of the biggest surprises to me, considering this trailer sat out unused for 8 years, is that the frame and outriggers have only minor surface rust on the bottom inch or so. A few of the "straps" between the outriggers that the belly skin was riveted to are a little thin, but those will be an easy fix.

Again, thanks for all the input. Tom
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