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Old 10-11-2014, 08:38 PM   #29
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1999 34' Excella
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Round Rock , Texas
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I agree with Andy about the Fiberglass. It should be more durable than the epoxy. But... I have not been able to get Fglass to penetrate like the epoxy.

In the "model airlplane" hobby there are some "microballon" powder additive that really makes the epoxy more matrixed. Very strong.

Peace and Blessings..
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:04 PM   #30
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Benton , Arkansas
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Floor rot repair with epoxy

SMC resin maybe, but imho a good epoxy is stronger and better than polyester resin which tends to become brittle and delaminate over time, in my experience anyway.

The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

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Old 11-03-2015, 12:53 PM   #31
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2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
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Epoxy repair - 2 years and going strong

The last week of October I winterized my Safari before heading south for the winter in my Excella. I took a good look at the places I repaired the plywood floor with epoxy. So far the repair is holding up. It looks just the same as when I finished working on it, except a few surface scratches. It's been 2 years 2 months. I towed the trailer about 3,000 miles this summer, for a total of about 4,800+ miles since repairing it. I'm still happy with the results.
2014 Silverado 1500 5.3L maximum trailering package (yes, I'm towing the 34')
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:52 PM   #32
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1955 22' Flying Cloud
1964 17' Bambi II
Clear Lake Shores , Texas
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I did a similar repair on my 55 FC shortly after purchasing it.
It came from AZ so was in a dry environment most of the time but when I removed all the flooring I found several delaminated areas of plywood (no rot, just failure of the glue holding the plies together). These were in the typical spots: inside the rear hatch below the rear window, below the front window and just inside the door. I used a syringe to inject epoxy gradually over several days and then used cinder blocks on wax paper to hold the plies together as it cured. The repaired areas are rock solid 10 months later.
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Old 11-04-2015, 03:52 PM   #33
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1992 34' Excella
Austin , Texas
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I fixed a large area in a storage locker using epoxy and fiberglass mat. I first flooded the area with home made penetrating epoxy (1 part mixed epoxy, two parts Xylene solvent by volume) and it soaked in and stabilized the punky material when it cured. Then I laid fiberglass mat over the top for strength using epoxy as the filler resin. It's hard as a rock and more solid than what was originally there.

The Xylene evolves a tremendous amount of fumes as it evaporates so you can't perform this repair while you're staying in the trailer.

You can buy better quality epoxy in gallon (or larger) quantities much cheaper from Progressive Epoxy Polymers.
"If you come to a fork in the road, take it."
Austin, TX "Rancho Deluxe"
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:00 PM   #34
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2000 25' Safari
1999 34' Excella
Davidson County, NC , Highlands County, FL
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Posts: 2,049
It's been almost 3 years and I've towed over 12,000 miles since the repair. We just returned from a 7500 mile trip out west. The epoxy wood repair and fiberglass cloth hole patch have held up well.
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:17 PM   #35
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1967 17' Caravel
Austin , Texas
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Happy the patch is holding up well for you. as others have said, epoxy is vastly superior to polyester resin mainly due to the superior mechanical bonding strength of epoxy over polyester. Epoxy resin also makes for a good "filler" for leveling repairs if mixed with talc powder. An easy way to patch holes is to mix chopped glass strands in with thickened epoxy.

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