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Old 07-10-2010, 03:13 PM   #1
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Floor rot / rear '89 Excella

I'm the proud new owner of an '89 Excella. I found the floor rotted in the back trunk, so I took out the bed to repair the sub floor. My question is can I do this repair with OUT removing skins on the inside? Please keep any (much appreciated) advice as simple as possible. I'm not up on all the AS lingo yet. I mean to say, I don't know what the parts are all called. From reading other post, I do gather that we will want to use the POR 15 on any of the frame which we can access. But we were not planning to do a complete restoration, and we really do not want to at this time. I have been able to remove the rotted material out by chiseling it with a screw driver, I just don't know what I don't know. Bottom line, can someone tell me what the bare minimum is I have to do to fix this? Thanks.
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Old 07-10-2010, 04:51 PM   #2
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saw cut and some plywood

figger out where the first cross-frame support is and snap a line across the floor that encompasses all the rotted area; make a cardboard template of the curved rear section, and some 1-1/2 self tapping flathead #10 screws. cut the ply per your pattern, squeeze it in the c channel making notches where there are existing bolts through the c channel, then screw it down. of course, while the floor is open, clean out as much as is possible, put down new insulation if you want and paint the frame as required. if the ply and existing floor do not match as to height, either shim the ply or once installed, mix up some floor patching mortar and level it out. sand lightly and recarpet, or put down flooring of your choice. no skin rmvl required.
ol bill

ps many existing threads on this procedure.
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:01 PM   #3
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^^^that will work^^^

but may I point out I think you will get better results, and it will be easier, if you pull those 3 inside rear panels, and honestly, that was the easy part of what we did, when we did it. Getting all the "furniture" out took way longer then those panels. Our rear rot was about that bad. We also had some accident damage to take care of.
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Old 07-10-2010, 05:43 PM   #4
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It might be a good idea to isolate and cure the leak before you put it all back together. You will be able to more easily see where the water is getting in while everything is opened up. A very likely source is the flat part of the bumper/storage compartment where it meets the beltline. This needs to be sealed with Vulkem or other proper sealer--no silicone.

This thread may be helpful.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...ybe-56674.html

By the way, removing those lower interior skin panels is not all that difficult--you are most of the way there now by getting all the bed parts out already. It surely would make it easier to do the job right the first time. Dakota's Dad is absolutely right.
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Old 07-10-2010, 07:55 PM   #5
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Another common water leak source in these late 80's early 90's trailers is the water inlet. Follow this link here. I just replaced mine tonight. It's easy to get to while you have the rear end opened up.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:19 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cathy624 View Post
...My question is can I do this repair with OUT removing skins on the inside? Please keep any (much appreciated) advice as simple as possible....

hi cathy welcome...

YES, but removing just a FEW sections of the interior skin is easy

and makes the repair much easier...

herez another RECENT member with basically the same issue.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...lla-65702.html

and the picture HOW2 for fixin it, is right here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...oor-54952.html

no lingo

cheers
2air'
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:58 PM   #7
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Thanks to all for replying to my question. After thinking about this trailer for the last couple of days, I think my husband and I have come to the conclusion we may be better off replacing the entire floor. Our concern is the smell. It seems there are so many things which could hold odors in these old Airstreams. Like the carpet which runs under EVERYTHING! We also would like to POR 15 the frame, and put a laminate floor throughout. So here are the first of what I'm sure will be many questions:
1. Are the bolts I read so many people talk of having to drill out, to remove the old floor, the ones with the square heads, that hold the sub-floor in the 'c' channel? These look really hard to remove.
2. Is it possible to do the floor replacement in, say three stages? Back bedroom area, then mid-cabin area then front cabin? It seem like it would be nice to not have to take all the parts out and store them while the work is being done. We could just move them to the completed area. (We plan to reuse all the parts we can.) Our pole barn is about to burst at it's seams!Or will this just make the job more difficult?
3. Can we expect a problem getting the seams to be nice and flush, with no high spots, or is this unrealistic?
4. What is the best product to put back in for the new sub-floor? I have read some use marine grade ply wood, other use other stuff and seal it. What's best?
5. What thickness do I use? Anything more than the 1/2" material will require milling the edges. How do you go about this?
6. Is the shower as difficult to get out as it appears? I can't believe they put carpet under the shower! Carpet + mice = P.U.!

PLEASE HELP! What am I getting myself into?
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Old 07-12-2010, 07:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cathy624 View Post
... I think my husband and I have come to the conclusion we may be better off replacing the entire floor. Our concern is the smell. ...
PLEASE HELP! What am I getting myself into?
Whooohoooo thats gonna be ALOT of work if I understand your intent to replace the 'floor'...

You would be talkin a complete gut including all of the interior lower skins...basically a frame off 'Full Monty' (do a search...)

Hopefully you intend on replacing the 'flooring'

My '91 34' was a fish camp, had rotted floors front and rear and had a unique, um, aroma....
It's not to hard to pull the carpet from most of the area...mine still has it under the closet...
pulling the sofa, dinette, floor mounted cabinets, bed, end tables will get 95% of the flooring exposed...It's not that big of a job

I went with hard flooring and managed to get rid of the, um, aroma...the sofa, curtians and dinette took some work but we finally have'er smellin as fresh as a spring breeze....
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:24 PM   #9
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Thanks for the reply HiHo. Your project turned out beautiful! I've spent a lot of time going through your thread, (and several others) trying to figure out if we have to replace the entire floor. We are not all that enthused about the idea, to say the least. Every day I spend taking stuff apart I wonder how on earth I'm every going to get it all back in! The reason we concluded we need to do a full floor removal is because of the smell from mold and mice. We just don't want to have a smell when we're done. Do you have to worry about odor coming from the insulation under the floor? I have found the stench from the mice to be much worse than the mold. It seems as though they would have nest all through that insulation in the floor. Also the carpet under the shower stinks very bad! The way I see it , we will not be able to remove the carpet from under the shower, closet, or the fridge, without removal of those items. Do you think we will be successful getting rid of the odor if we leave that much carpet? We also have a wood floor in the kitchen area which appears to be glued down, not sure how to get that up. It will have to go, because I would want to take whatever flooring we decide on all the way through.
So far I have found just small areas of rot (besides the mess in the back). It appears you did your repair in the back without removing the lower skins. What made you decide to leave them but remove the ones in the front?
I have a bad dip in the floor, (or is it a peak?) right at a seam in front of the sofa. (I can't see the same seam in your pictures.) I guess I could fill it to level for laminate flooring. It's a pretty big area, I'd kind of like to know what's going on under neath to cause it.
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Old 07-12-2010, 10:46 PM   #10
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I would only replace what you have to. Any spots not rotten, but iffy in your mind, soak with stop rot or rid rot. Then paint the whole floor with KILZ, the original, not the "2" namby pamby good for the enviro stuff. Then flooring of your choice. should work fine. At least I hope.. 'cause thats our modus operandi... :-)
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Old 07-13-2010, 08:45 PM   #11
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Decisions, decisions...I can only offer the path I took and the reasons why...
I gotta agree with D'kota. The floorboards won't wiff odors if you seal them. The rot, well that stinks BAD.

I wouldn't think the under floor insulation could smell up the insides but ya might pull some interior panels and check for mouse signs inside the walls...I have not, but I do understand from the Full Monty Club that its real common for meeses to nest up the walls and raise a real stink...

BTW, I did loosen the rear interior and peel it back to do the work...I just didn't completely remove them as I did in the front...I could reach behind the de-riveted panels as far as I needed...

For the carpet under da tough stuff, I'd try a razor knife and cut out the big chunks.

Sumptin' 2 think about...Whats the goal? a 'new' 'stream or somthin that don't stink so you can go camping?
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Old 07-13-2010, 09:52 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakota's Dad View Post
^^^that will work^^^

but may I point out I think you will get better results, and it will be easier, if you pull those 3 inside rear panels, and honestly, that was the easy part of what we did, when we did it. Getting all the "furniture" out took way longer then those panels. Our rear rot was about that bad. We also had some accident damage to take care of.
Hi,
Checked out the photos. They will be a big help for our repair job on our rear bath sovereign. I have a few more complications, with plumbing and fixtures, but the photos will really help me recognize all componants. I am considering removing the rear bath, changing the rear area to a bedroom and moving the bath to a side bath where the bedroom is now. Looks like a huge job but if it would keep me from having to do this again in a few years I might consider it.
Maybe not.
cheers, bill b.
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bilby05 View Post
Hi,
Checked out the photos. They will be a big help for our repair job on our rear bath sovereign. I have a few more complications, with plumbing and fixtures, but the photos will really help me recognize all componants. I am considering removing the rear bath, changing the rear area to a bedroom and moving the bath to a side bath where the bedroom is now. Looks like a huge job but if it would keep me from having to do this again in a few years I might consider it.
Maybe not.
cheers, bill b.

The only down side I see to that plan might be the need to source fresh/gray/black water tanks and valves and whatnot, re doing plumbing is probably about the same either way. We looked very hard at a rear bath '69 that was gutted mostly, and that would have been our plan, but the stealership that had it thought it was Wally's personal trailer or something. Needed nearly everything, even axles, and they wouldn't budge bellow $6k... did finally sell it though.. or at least it went away.. as far as changing to a mid bath and shower pan etc, look at having something custom done, probably easier then finding the vintage parts, and there are some awesome ideas out there on the web..
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Just the photos.. (sometimes you don't need the blog, just a picture worth a thousand words..)

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Old 07-13-2010, 11:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cathy624 View Post
The reason we concluded we need to do a full floor removal is because of the smell from mold and mice. We just don't want to have a smell when we're done. Do you have to worry about odor coming from the insulation under the floor? I have found the stench from the mice to be much worse than the mold. It seems as though they would have nest all through that insulation in the floor. Also the carpet under the shower stinks very bad! The way I see it , we will not be able to remove the carpet from under the shower, closet, or the fridge, without removal of those items. Do you think we will be successful getting rid of the odor if we leave that much carpet? We also have a wood floor in the kitchen area which appears to be glued down, not sure how to get that up. It will have to go, because I would want to take whatever flooring we decide on all the way through.
So far I have found just small areas of rot (besides the mess in the back). It appears you did your repair in the back without removing the lower skins. What made you decide to leave them but remove the ones in the front?
I have a bad dip in the floor, (or is it a peak?) right at a seam in front of the sofa. (I can't see the same seam in your pictures.) I guess I could fill it to level for laminate flooring. It's a pretty big area, I'd kind of like to know what's going on under neath to cause it.
The dip in the floor suggests that the OSB board has lost strength and is sagging between frame supports. It's probably been damp and soaked up moisture all over. I have replaced floors a piece at a time, but it will get hard in the shower area. You do need to get inside the wall to fasten down the C channel. I wouldn't leave any if you start to do it all as different areas won't line up very well. You'll probably find all the insulation in the belly pan full of mice nests, that's why it smells bad. I would never replace the fiberglass in the floor because of the mice problem. It may be easier for you to open the belly pan and clean out from there. You could get a better idea of what's going on with the floor from under it.
I'll be in your area coming to the Detriot rally, next month, if you need any help to decide how to procede.
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