Floor rot

[trumpetguy]

When I removed the bed to start this project I was surprised that the room is open to the rear storage locker. Any suggestions to close the gap that allows cold and heat to flow freely in and out?

After a hard rain this week I still have a leak. A few ounces of water pooled in the belly pan. So here I go removing the belly molding from around the bumper area. Not putting new wood in there with a leak.

[Panama Red]

Without removing the lower wraps, which I didn't see if you did or not, how will you replace the bolts that go through the outriggers? They are pretty important to the structural integrity of the unit.

-Red, been through it all before...

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

I believe the source of the leak was where the rear bumper meets the trailer. This is a common problem with my unit. Airstream sent me a technical bulletin on how to correct the problem which envolved removing the belt molding and belly band, then caulking with Vulkem. I have also sealed the windows, exterior lights, etc. My next step is to place some light blue paper towels along the rear walls and douse the trailer with water. The location of the rotted wood makes it clear where the intrusion was...right under the storage locker which is where the lack of caulking has been problematic on these units.

If you own a 2007 be sure to inspect the area described.

Would you please share a copy of the technical bulletin?

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

When I removed the bed to start this project I was surprised that the room is open to the rear storage locker. Any suggestions to close the gap that allows cold and heat to flow freely in and out?

After a hard rain this week I still have a leak. A few ounces of water pooled in the belly pan. So here I go removing the belly molding from around the bumper area. Not putting new wood in there with a leak.

I added a extra vents to improve air exchanges beneath the bed. IMO, interior air should flow freely in and out of that space under the bed.
If the space beneath the bed is different than above the bed, so that the dew point temperature occurs between, there will be condensation within the bed when we sleep. We create a lot of moisture, through perspiration and breathing, that needs to evaporate, not condensate. Air flow helps!

[trumpetguy]

Thanks for the feedback.

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by Panama Red

Without removing the lower wraps, which I didn't see if you did or not, how will you replace the bolts that go through the outriggers? They are pretty important to the structural integrity of the unit.

-Red, been through it all before...

On a recent VAP (vintage Airstream podcast) episode Colin Hyde said it was perfectly acceptable to use self tapping bolts to install the floor. As long as you use good quality bolts.
He said he had never seen a failure with them.
He did mention that if you are putting them through the A-frame to predrill.

[Panama Red]

Self tapping for the outrigger bolts? I used self tapping to hold the floor to the frame, but the bolts that secure the c channel to the outriggers I replaced with a regular bolt and nut... figured if I had it apart that far already, I might as well. But I also replaced my whole belly pan, and outer wraps, along with the majority of my outriggers, and the back seven feet of frame, so it didn’t really add anything to the job.

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by Panama Red

Self tapping for the outrigger bolts? I used self tapping to hold the floor to the frame, but the bolts that secure the c channel to the outriggers I replaced with a regular bolt and nut... figured if I had it apart that far already, I might as well. But I also replaced my whole belly pan, and outer wraps, along with the majority of my outriggers, and the back seven feet of frame, so it didn’t really add anything to the job.

I had my belly pan off too and replaced my floor with elevator bolts & socket head cap screw on the outriggers.
I don't know the VAP episode I heard it on but it would be easy enough to find in their archives.

[Dingo Girl]

Originally Posted by Dingo Girl

I had my belly pan off too and replaced my floor with elevator bolts & socket head cap screw on the outriggers.
I don't know the VAP episode I heard it on but it would be easy enough to find in their archives.

My frame except for the "A" was pretty much a disaster. It is all new now.
Using a mechanics creeper saved time when putting the washers and nuts on.

[ktmkirby]

I replaced the pink insulation with bubble wrap when I did my shell off. I believe it was the reason that I had to replace nearly all the outriggers. I poked drain holes in the bubble wrap before I put the belly pan on.

[Isuzusweet]

Just a suggestion if you're concerned about water intrusion again.

Replace the OEM subfloor with Coosa board....40-45% lighter than plywood, will not rot, mildew or promote the growthg of fungus. I also found it to be stronger than plywood; did I mention it doesn't absorb moisture?

Made in Alabama, but you could easily get it at any marina that is close by.

Pricey, but so is peace of mind.

Cheers
Tony

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

When I removed the bed to start this project I was surprised that the room is open to the rear storage locker. Any suggestions to close the gap that allows cold and heat to flow freely in and out?

After a hard rain this week I still have a leak. A few ounces of water pooled in the belly pan. So here I go removing the belly molding from around the bumper area. Not putting new wood in there with a leak.

Trumpet guy

Gotta be frustrating not being able to chase down the source of the leak yet. Maybe get out the hose and direct the water where you think it may be coming in. Or sit in the bedroom during a rain storm.

I would probably still put plywood back in but I would seal it and hope that I have found and fixed the source of the water.

Dan

[dbj216]

I find it rather frustrating that the trumpetguy has this major project in the rear of his 07 Airstream. It appears he is doing a good job with it.

Gee, it is such a well known fact that the 70s trailers had a very similar problem with rain water leakage between the body and the frame at the rear of the trailer. Some Airstream engineer was on vacation when they designed the mid ought trailers.

There are other threads concerning this type of floor damage in the 04 to 08 trailers. BoldAdventure comes to mind.

David

[Jeremiwvu]

When doing water testing start low and work up, douse a lower section with the hose for 15-20 min, u can check for moisture, but wait another 20-30 min before moving up if it’s dry.

Funny thing about the shape of airstreams and that the interior skins are watertight mostly is that a roof leak can show up at the floor and nowhere else.

[trumpetguy]

Yep. Very disappointed with AS as a company. When you charge a premium you should deliver a premium product. We should have some warmer temps this week so I’ll be back at it with the caulking. My inspection of the area I did last year looks good. I suspect the screws that hold the rub rail so I will add caulk to the screw before reinstalling. And yes I will test and retest with a water hose. New floor is not going in until there is no more water. This job is way too hard to repeat.

[Jeremiwvu]

Originally Posted by trumpetguy

Yep. Very disappointed with AS as a company. When you charge a premium you should deliver a premium product.

I see these type of comments on here quite a bit and it’s generally during some type of event.

The thing is if the trailer you were working on weren’t an airstream it wouldn’t be worth fixing, it would be totaled and falling apart all over the place not just the floor. A premium product is not the same as a maintainable free product. If the previous owner had made the repairs necessary and done regular water tests and sealing and caulking the problem would have never occurred.

I have a 1981 excella and it looks way better than any 7-10 year old camper in the campground. Most people can’t tell it’s more than a few years old much less 36. Many people here have much older AS’s that look better than mine. The 2nd best trailer on the market is ready for salvage after 10-12 years.

In my opinion that makes what airstream does outstanding. Perfect, no, but they are in a league of their own as far as travel trailers are concerned. I’ve seen new on the lot SOB trailers with furniture coming apart, and things misaligned. There is simply no comparison.

[trumpetguy]

[emoji106]

[trumpetguy]

Almost finished and what a gosh awful hard job that was. We opted for carpet tiles in the bedroom because the vinyl in the rest of the trailer is in good shape and trying to match it would be hard.

I am going to insulate the storage box that is under the bed because there is nothing there to keep the cold out, or in. After insulation all that remains is the top of the bed and mattresses. I guess I saved thousands but this was sure hard on my 71 year old joints.

[TouringDan]

Trumpet guy

Nice repair job. Remember that you have the satisfaction that you did it yourself, probably better than any shop would have done and you saved thousands. The exercise was good for you. Your joints will recover.

Dan

[ROBERTSUNRUS]

Hi, trumpetguy; My trailer hasn't had this leak problem, but I have a few things for you to think about. My outside storage door leaked cold air under my bed. I insulated my bed from the bottom of the plywood with foam sheets. The biggest fix though was to use Double D weather seals on my storage door. No air or water can get in my storage area now.

I also sealed my rear bumper area and it can be done without removing the lower moldings.

The other thing that came to my mind when you stated that there wasn't any rain. I had a neighbor with an SOB trailer that got rotted floors with no rain. His storage doors leaked and the water came from his next door neighbor's sprinklers.