Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 12-04-2011, 06:37 PM   #1
4 Rivet Member
 
Eric H's Avatar
 
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan , Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
Images: 9
Floor replacement question: to do it right the first time!

Hi all,
I have a question about the bolts that hold the floor to the shell...like, the best way to get them off and the floor out! I've looked at a number of threads but the ones I've seen just go from a floor to no floor and I want to make sure to do it right (so the shell doesn't fall off
In the pictures you will see that the bolts that go through the C channel, into the wood and then (I assume) into the frame are rusted and pretty much useless. I've only taken off the back section and one wall so far, and I figure it might be easier to replace the back section first (where the blue arrows point). I'm just wondering if there are tricks or pitfalls when getting the floor out from under this C channel.
Is it best to replace a section at a time (like the back section) or can you remove all of the floor and still have the shell on (which I'd rather do).
It seems like the floor is what's holding the shell on, but in looking at other people's pics I'm pretty sure this is not the case...
So I'm kinda lost here, I can certainly go at it with the sawzaw and pull out chunks of the floor little by little (which I figure is the correct way), but I don't want to have the shell collapse on me!
Thanks for the help!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Back floor.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	315.6 KB
ID:	146516   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1571.jpg
Views:	120
Size:	342.4 KB
ID:	146517  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1575.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	357.8 KB
ID:	146518  
__________________

__________________
Eric H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 06:53 PM   #2
Top
Always learning
 
Top's Avatar
 
1972 29' Ambassador
1962 19' Globetrotter
1951 21' Flying Cloud
Central , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,779
Images: 24
Blog Entries: 2
Send a message via Yahoo to Top
Hi Eric,
The easiest way to remove the e bolts is to grip the nut with vise grip pliers, then wiggle back and forth and the bolt will usually break off. Then take a punch and hammer the rest of the e bolt out. Have you seen my floor replacement thread? You can take the whole floor out with the shell resting on the outriggers, but you'll want to make sure the shell is attached to the frame in a few places so it doesn't fly away on you!
__________________

__________________
Lance

Work is never done, so take time to play!
Top is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 07:28 PM   #3
4 Rivet Member
 
Eric H's Avatar
 
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan , Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
Images: 9
Thanks!

Lance,
thanks for the link to your thread and the info. That's what I figured, but it's always best to check first, and it's a lot to dig through all the (great) info on here!
Your thread is great man, I've bookmarked it!
I'm trying to decide if I should leave the insulation in the walls since it looks fine, no leaks etc...
Thanks again!
Cheers
Eric
__________________
Eric H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 08:03 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,648
The floor does not look that rotten to me. Like Lance said sometimes you can just wring the rotten bolts off with vise grips. Worst case you can use a saws all but put the blade between the floor and the frame. You don't want to mess up the C-channel or skin. You can also use an angle grinder and grind the heads off from the bottom so you don't damage the aluminum. Take your time. I recommend getting all the pink crap out from under the floor. That stuff stays wet and rots the frame. I put RMAX back in the lower walls where the skin came off. I used 2 layers of the 1/2" foam and sealed it will silver duct tape. You can slit and crease the foam and make it bent around the corners. You can replace the last 4 feet of floor without doing anything fancy. When you cut the bolts at the back the rear will drop a little giving you room to slide in new floor in pieces. If you want to do one big piece you will have to remove the steel L-bracket at the back. If you don't have to replace it then don't. POR15 it and section the floor. I added angle iron to the frame to give each piece of floor its own supports.

I have not had time to organize and narate these yet but here is a photo record of what I did. Yours will be a little more complicated because of the rear bath. If you can save the old floor sections you can use them as templates.

Index of /AS-Temp/81-ExcellaII-31ft/Floor-Repairs

Marzboy on here used mahogany plywood and that should be good stuff to used for the floor and it is about the same as pine based marine plywood. I think this is his thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...hab-71458.html

Perry
__________________
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 09:14 PM   #5
4 Rivet Member
 
Eric H's Avatar
 
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan , Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
Images: 9
Thanks Perry!
The floor is not rotten, but the bolts are rusted due to water and then the reaction of the steel and aluminum so I want to replace them at least.

There are a couple rotten places up front (under the vista view, go figure). I want to replace the holding tanks as well, so I figure if I have to cut the floor up I might as well replace it all. Am I correct to think that I can't get to the tanks from the bottom?

I'm also interested in getting full access to the frame to really do it right.

Thanks everyone!
Eric




Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
The floor does not look that rotten to me. Like Lance said sometimes you can just wring the rotten bolts off with vise grips. Worst case you can use a saws all but put the blade between the floor and the frame. You don't want to mess up the C-channel or skin. You can also use an angle grinder and grind the heads off from the bottom so you don't damage the aluminum. Take your time. I recommend getting all the pink crap out from under the floor. That stuff stays wet and rots the frame. I put RMAX back in the lower walls where the skin came off. I used 2 layers of the 1/2" foam and sealed it will silver duct tape. You can slit and crease the foam and make it bent around the corners. You can replace the last 4 feet of floor without doing anything fancy. When you cut the bolts at the back the rear will drop a little giving you room to slide in new floor in pieces. If you want to do one big piece you will have to remove the steel L-bracket at the back. If you don't have to replace it then don't. POR15 it and section the floor. I added angle iron to the frame to give each piece of floor its own supports.

I have not had time to organize and narate these yet but here is a photo record of what I did. Yours will be a little more complicated because of the rear bath. If you can save the old floor sections you can use them as templates.

Index of /AS-Temp/81-ExcellaII-31ft/Floor-Repairs

Marzboy on here used mahogany plywood and that should be good stuff to used for the floor and it is about the same as pine based marine plywood. I think this is his thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...hab-71458.html

Perry
__________________
Eric H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-04-2011, 09:21 PM   #6
Tool Hoarder
 
Currently Looking...
West , California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
Images: 3
I removed my floor bolts like this....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	PC060005.jpg
Views:	103
Size:	312.7 KB
ID:	146547   Click image for larger version

Name:	PC060007.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	345.7 KB
ID:	146548  

Click image for larger version

Name:	PC060008.jpg
Views:	97
Size:	420.3 KB
ID:	146549  
__________________
marzboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2011, 12:17 AM   #7
4 Rivet Member
 
Eric H's Avatar
 
1974 23' Safari
Vintage Kin Owner
1947 25' Spartan , Manor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 457
Images: 9
PERFECT. I have that same bit sitting on my work bench and never that together. Most of those old bolts don't want to come out or get rung off.
This is great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by marzboy View Post
I removed my floor bolts like this....
__________________
Eric H is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-06-2011, 10:19 AM   #8
Tool Hoarder
 
Currently Looking...
West , California
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 907
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric H View Post
PERFECT. I have that same bit sitting on my work bench and never that together. Most of those old bolts don't want to come out or get rung off.
This is great.
Thank Uwe @ Area 63 for that trick. Saved me lots of time. Post some pics of the floor removal.
__________________

__________________
marzboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
First Time Buyer: 1966 Airstream 29' endroits1 Dollars & Cents 2 07-08-2011 06:34 PM
Steel / Aluminum wheel question polarlyse Wheels, Hubs & Bearings 12 05-29-2011 08:49 PM
1980 Caravelle axle question Seymour Axles 5 05-14-2011 09:28 PM
A question on selling awnings Airy Awnings 21 04-24-2011 11:37 AM
Is 6 yrs old time to replace? Tim_S Tires 25 04-15-2011 06:55 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:05 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.