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Old 02-08-2006, 11:20 PM   #161
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update

Yesterday Bambi got out of the garage for the first time since last August.
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Old 02-09-2006, 01:05 AM   #162
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Good work Don ! It is a great feeling isn't it when the shell is back on the frame.

C ya soon

Chris
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:47 AM   #163
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now the fun begins! congrats!

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Old 02-09-2006, 10:26 PM   #164
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Fun, Yes. I have been installing wiring and trying to figure out what I want. Here is a question. The tail lights on my 63 CA Bambi have two bulbs in each fixture, and a total of three elements. One small bulb with a single element. and a larger bulb with two elements. The twin element bulb is a standard tail light stop light bulb. So far I have used the original wiring. It is that wiring that leads to my question. First the details, The small bulb is wired in with the clearance lights and lights when power is applied to that wire. The large bulb has a wire that lights the tail light elements in both sides of the trailer. The Stop/turn signal elements work standard. Here is the question, What was the purpose of this system of wiring? One of my thoughts is that one of the lights was used as a backup light, even though it would be a red light. In a seven wire umbilical one connection is for backup lights. This trailer never had white backup lights. Although it was wired for them. Second, maybe in 1963 cars had a lighting system where you could turn on the clearance lights separate from the tail lights. I will be using a 6 wire umbilical because the rest of my trailer equipment is already 6 wire. I will probably combine the clearance light wire with the tail light wire for a contemporary connection.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Don
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:54 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Second, maybe in 1963 cars had a lighting system where you could turn on the clearance lights separate from the tail lights. I will be using a 6 wire umbilical because the rest of my trailer equipment is already 6 wire. I will probably combine the clearance light wire with the tail light wire for a contemporary connection.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Don
Don,

I remember there being a thread on this very issue. I can't find it though.
My lights were wired the same way originally. I need to take a look at how it is now. It works great, but I might have changed the electrical layout slightly.
Combining the 2 wires should work fine, as it is like that in newer trailers.
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:55 PM   #166
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HI Don, On the tailights, I think you have the right idea. That is how I did mine. I have the exact same lights as you do. I wired the smaller bulb with the running lights/tailights. Works just fine.

On the umbillical cord here is what I suggest and what I did. I bought 25 ft of 7 way cord. Enough to go the length of the trailer right up to the tailights plus about 2 ft out the front. I did put OEM backup lights on my trailer. I am glad I did. IF you didn't want to go that route just now, with the 7 way cord at least the wires would be there should you change your mind later on down the road. You can still put a 6 pin connector on it and fold over the unused wire for now. Just a thought.

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Old 02-09-2006, 11:01 PM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
What was the purpose of this system of wiring? One of my thoughts is that one of the lights was used as a backup light, even though it would be a red light. Anyone have any thoughts?
Don

Uwe solved my problems with this... I think cars used to have a separate brake and turn signal - so the different filaments served these two purposes. They make circuits that combine your tow vehicle brake and turn signals if you have one of those older cars and want to pull a newer trailer.

As for the umbilical, I wired mine up with a jack on both the tow vehicle and airstream so that my cable is completely detachable. It works well and from the looks of my original cable, the elements aren't good to that wire after a few (44) years.

Carlos
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Old 02-10-2006, 12:47 AM   #168
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Fun, Yes. I have been installing wiring and trying to figure out what I want. Here is a question. The tail lights on my 63 CA Bambi have two bulbs in each fixture, and a total of three elements. One small bulb with a single element. and a larger bulb with two elements. The twin element bulb is a standard tail light stop light bulb. So far I have used the original wiring. It is that wiring that leads to my question. First the details, The small bulb is wired in with the clearance lights and lights when power is applied to that wire. The large bulb has a wire that lights the tail light elements in both sides of the trailer. The Stop/turn signal elements work standard. Here is the question, What was the purpose of this system of wiring? One of my thoughts is that one of the lights was used as a backup light, even though it would be a red light. In a seven wire umbilical one connection is for backup lights. This trailer never had white backup lights. Although it was wired for them. Second, maybe in 1963 cars had a lighting system where you could turn on the clearance lights separate from the tail lights. I will be using a 6 wire umbilical because the rest of my trailer equipment is already 6 wire. I will probably combine the clearance light wire with the tail light wire for a contemporary connection.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Don
Don,

1963 cars did not have separage clearance and tail light circuits because they did not have clearance lights. The tail lights and front parking lights came on with the first stop on the pull out switch and the headlights came on with the second stop on the pull out switch. Eighteen wheelers had separate clearance light circuits so that you could signal thank you with out turning off the headlights so they used the same 7 wire plug and wire, using the electric brake wire for the thank you switch.

Why don't you want backup lights?

The small bulb and one filiment on the other bulb is for the tail lights and the second filiment is the brake/turn signal. The brighter filiment is the brake/turn signal.

Bill
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:12 AM   #169
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Bill, thanks for the input. I like the idea of a "thank you switch". I may look at including that. It could also work as a red backup light. The 60's auto switch sound like what I remembered. I just couldn't remember for sure.
Thanks Don
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:05 AM   #170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Uwe solved my problems with this... I think cars used to have a separate brake and turn signal - so the different filaments served these two purposes. They make circuits that combine your tow vehicle brake and turn signals if you have one of those older cars and want to pull a newer trailer.

As for the umbilical, I wired mine up with a jack on both the tow vehicle and airstream so that my cable is completely detachable. It works well and from the looks of my original cable, the elements aren't good to that wire after a few (44) years.

Carlos
Now I remember....I must be either overworked or have attention deficit disorder.
The second jack on the trailer is a good idea. I installed one for my Overlander, after having it on the 71 TradeWind as factory equipment. Another idea I stole from teh TredeWind is the 7-pin round plugs and sockets. The electrical connection is much more secure than the 7-pin flat. I often had to wiggle and shove the 7-pin flat into the bumper end of the Suburban/van before. The 7-pin round just slides into place with a positive feel to it. The amp rating is much higher on the 7-pin round, also. This was the main reason I am using it. My 63 has hydraulic disc brakes with an EH actuator, which draws a fair amount of amperage. The 7-pin flat would have been underrated, when going by theoretical specifications.
The drawback on the 7-pin round is that it is not any longer an RV standard.
Don, if you're going to go 6-pin, then only your own tow vehicle will be able to tow your trailer legally, unless you make an adapter. Might as well go with the 7-pin flat, as you do not have the extra current requirements that I had. Then you will be able to plug into 98% of the current tow vehicles with working lights and brakes. When you buy the plugs and sockets, the wiring scheme is printed inside the box, usually.
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Old 02-10-2006, 07:16 PM   #171
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Unhappy Help! I'm breaking glass

I'm trying to replace the window molding on my 63 Bambi. I purchased the Hehr Mark 12 window molding from Vintage Trailer Supply. It matches my flat grass windows. I cleaned the aluminum channel and the glass. It has been next to imposable to install the window molding. I finally broke the glass in the process. Has anyone out there done this before? Can you give me some hints on how to do this.
Thanks Don
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Old 02-10-2006, 10:32 PM   #172
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
I'm trying to replace the window molding on my 63 Bambi. I purchased the Hehr Mark 12 window molding from Vintage Trailer Supply. It matches my flat grass windows. I cleaned the aluminum channel and the glass. It has been next to imposable to install the window molding. I finally broke the glass in the process. Has anyone out there done this before? Can you give me some hints on how to do this.
Thanks Don
Don,

You need to stretch the molding into the groove. Same with the bulb seal.
Also, call or write to Steve ( the owner) for more advice.
I started on mine, but got sidetracked doing more work on the interior.
I am assuming that yu have the same windows as my 1963 Overlander.
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Old 02-14-2006, 05:56 PM   #173
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Smile The Learning curve, goes round, and round.

Well, a successful window installation! The "Curve" has taught me the following: 1. Never try to install glass and window molding on a cold day. 2. Don't use a hammer! I'd rather not give an explanation. However, If you contact my wife, I'm sure she would enjoy giving you an explanation. 3. Work with the window removed from the trailer and on a flat surface. 4. Have the room at least 80 degrees,( soft rubber works better than hard ). 5. Use a clay modeling tool to guide the rubber into the grove. and number 6. As anyone who has done this before will tell you have the window channel cleaner than your dinner plate! 3 pictures follow: a. the installed window b. the clay tool c. the clay tool again.

p.s. I will wait until a hot summer day to try other windows. And a couple of beers may help.
Don
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:15 AM   #174
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Wow Don that looks great ! How much do ya charge for that ??
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Old 02-15-2006, 07:07 AM   #175
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Don,
did you replace the bulb seal on the window frame and the glazing strips on the outside of the glass?
How did you end up doing it? Did you have to stretch it into place? I have the bulb seal and glazing bead already, just need time and patience.
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:17 AM   #176
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Don,
did you replace the bulb seal on the window frame and the glazing strips on the outside of the glass?
How did you end up doing it? Did you have to stretch it into place? I have the bulb seal and glazing bead already, just need time and patience.
Hi Uwe, I'm ordering the bulb seal today. I replaced the Glazing Tape that sits in the frame first before the glass. Alter the window was placed in I then installed the Window Retaining Gasket 1961-1965 Grey Vinyl. The Retaining Gasket is the one that is trickier. The gasket did stretch some during the installation. Steve had mentioned that he is producing a new material that should have less shrinkage. But that may not be amiable for 2 to 3 months. So I decided to go ahead with the current material. I want to use my trailer as soon as possible. The 80 degree room was also a big help to Arthritic fingers. I will either come up with some diagrams to explain installation or attempt another window and take some pictures.
It looks great. I am pleased with the results.
Don
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:20 AM   #177
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Wow Don that looks great ! How much do ya charge for that ??
How about an installation demonstration at the Rally? You build the fire and I'll work the Retaining gasket.
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:27 AM   #178
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Speaking of...

Don,
ah, San Felipe temps frequently top 100F, which by your explanation would be a perfect temperature to install the glazing bead on the rest of your windows, and while you're at it, on mine too....how about it? We've got a Rally planned for March!
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Old 02-15-2006, 10:51 AM   #179
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Hi Uwe, I'm ordering the bulb seal today. I replaced the Glazing Tape that sits in the frame first before the glass. Alter the window was placed in I then installed the Window Retaining Gasket 1961-1965 Grey Vinyl. The Retaining Gasket is the one that is trickier. The gasket did stretch some during the installation. Steve had mentioned that he is producing a new material that should have less shrinkage. But that may not be amiable for 2 to 3 months. So I decided to go ahead with the current material. I want to use my trailer as soon as possible. The 80 degree room was also a big help to Arthritic fingers. I will either come up with some diagrams to explain installation or attempt another window and take some pictures.
It looks great. I am pleased with the results.
Don
Don, sounds like you have this all figured out... The bulb seal is quite easy compared to the gasket. My installation method with the gasket was just like yours. I started at one corner and stuck the gasket down onto the slot with a flat screwdriver, then after I had an inch or so in, I started to stretch the gasket before pushing it down into the slot with the screwdriver. I cut one end to 45 degrees to start and then trimmed the other end when I got it almost all inserted. It went in pretty easily by the end of the 6 windows, and then when I dropped a ladder on one of those windows and had to do a seventh, it was a cinch! I didn't find that the gasket had shrunk or pulled back against my stretching, even several months on... I think the pressure holds it in place nicely.

It is a nice feeling to look at those completed windows isn't it?

Carlos
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Old 02-15-2006, 12:45 PM   #180
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cool! i'll be attempting the same thing this weekend, weather permitting! did you pollish the window frames before you did all this? that's where i am at the moment.

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