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Old 11-13-2005, 09:09 PM   #71
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Aligning C channel to fit Shell replacement

Does this sound like the right approach? I'm attempting to make sure that the shell rivet holes will line up with the holes in the C channel when the shell is put back on my new floor. I am using calipers to measure rivet hole distances on the shell and transfer them to the floor and C channel. Here a series of pictures with explanations. I'm open for advice.
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Old 11-13-2005, 09:55 PM   #72
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I am not sure if the kind of precision you are after is practical in this case.
More power to you if it works out, but in my case there was no way I could re-use the old rivet holes in the c-channel. As a matter of fact, I had to manufacture several sections of the c-channel that was no longer serviceable. I was very happy once the shell agreed to once again fit over the c-channel and belly wrap after all was said and done. Mine took 3 tries and needed quite a bit of trimming around the back perimeter. However, I did not have a pattern for the rear flooring section, it was rotted out so badly.
You can always put the shell on and then lift sections of it to make adjustments.
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:50 PM   #73
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Question e-book practice C channel

Two things today, I finished the C channel for my trailer. And I used the information to put together some possible pages for a e-book on Shell off floor replacement. The last couple of days I've been working toward the e-book idea. I'm very open to comments suggestions or even "quit waisting your time". Here are the set of pictures that demonstrate both things.
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Old 11-14-2005, 08:59 PM   #74
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e-book What do you think?

Second section. Look at the page before this first. Coments please. The last three photo include, cutting with nibbler, checking for final fit, and the completed channel. Each picture can be read easier by double clicking on the photo to get and enlargement.
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:32 PM   #75
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Don,

Regarding using the dividers to locate the u-channel from a refererence point on the wheel well.

I would prefer to offset the u-channel by 1/4" or so and drill new holes.

If you try to locate the way you are doing, and end up off by just 60 thou, you will be off by half the diameter of a rivet.

Then you need to drill it out and end up with a slot instead of a hole.

Better to move to one side or the other and redrill.

Just my opinion. I used new floor channels.
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:37 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
...Just my opinion. I used new floor channels.
Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:01 PM   #77
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As an alternate, check out post # 86 on my Overlander thread ( A 63 for me)
I used a cheap metal brake from Harbor freight tools to make many brackets and sections of C-channel for this project. A worthwhile investment, in my opinion, for a job of this magnitude.
I had to make horizontal rib sections also, to repair previous accident damage to the shell.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:27 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkerfoot
Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
The floor channels that are straight I made useing the techniques shown in the photos. The curved channels in my trailer were in good condition. I have not look for a source for these parts. They could propable be made using a metal streaching device. This equipment is used in aircraft construction.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:30 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
As an alternate, check out post # 86 on my Overlander thread ( A 63 for me)
I used a cheap metal brake from Harbor freight tools to make many brackets and sections of C-channel for this project. A worthwhile investment, in my opinion, for a job of this magnitude.
I had to make horizontal rib sections also, to repair previous accident damage to the shell.
I am looking forward to getting a metal brake one day soon. At this time in was not in the budget. In relation to (wkerfoot's) question do you have any input as to the production of curved channel parts?
Thanks Don
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:42 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkerfoot
Mark,

Did you make new floor channels or buy them, if bought, where?

Bill
I replaced a one side sheet so I had a 48" sheet of 2024-T3. I cut it down to 40", which left me with a trim piece 7 3/4" 12 ft. I split this in two and used it to make the new floor channels.

My neighbor has a 10ft light duty brake for gutter work. It would not bend the sheet without slipping, so I took it up the street to a metal fab shop that had a big hydraulic press brake.
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:44 AM   #81
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markdoane

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Don,

Regarding using the dividers to locate the u-channel from a reference point on the wheel well.

I would prefer to offset the u-channel by 1/4" or so and drill new holes.

If you try to locate the way you are doing, and end up off by just 60 thou, you will be off by half the diameter of a rivet.

Then you need to drill it out and end up with a slot instead of a hole.

Better to move to one side or the other and re-drill.

Just my opinion. I used new floor channels.
You are very correct about the problem of being a little off being a big problem. The 1/4" offset would work for the straight material. How did you manage that with the curved sections?

Your information is good and I wish I would have thought about it a little sooner. I spend around two to three hours a day on the Threads looking for information related to the restoration job at hand. And believe it has been GREAT! My interest in working on an e-book on restoration was to create a organized section of information to help simplify the process of looking for information. As I noted in another thread the purpose was to create a "living book" that could grow and change with the valuable information from all members. These photo and examples I have entered as I have been working on my restoration are an idea of how this book might work. What do you think? Another value to this approach would be several solutions to a problem could be shown so an individual could pick the solution that best meets their needs.
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Old 11-15-2005, 04:59 PM   #82
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Thanks for posting all these pictures, issues, questions, answers . . .
I am still watching for the curved C-Channel solution. My '51 didn't even have a C-Channel at the curves, just little "tabs" of scrap aluminum at the verticals. When I start reassembling (hopefully within the next decade) I really want a continuous piece/channel at the curves. I'm guessing one solution is to make a C-Channel and then do a lot of "clipping" on the inside leg so it can be "bent" to make the curve, but I'd really like something w/ significant structural "integrity" out on that edge (that already seems like it's "hanging out in the breeze" so to speak).
Thanks again, Mark
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Old 11-15-2005, 05:40 PM   #83
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MarkR,

I have a suggestion that I used on the curved sections of my '59.

The original was in pretty good shape, but like you said, the tabs were a little wimpy. In a few places, the factory had either missed the tab, or the tab had bent in so the rivet missed it.

Before I replaced the inside wall panels, I riveted a continuous strip of aluminum 2" wide along the floor edge. That really stiffened up the inside curve, and i didn't need to worry about missing a tab or bending it.

Where I riveted the strip, I marked the floor so I wouldn't be putting rivets on top of rivets.
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Old 12-18-2005, 04:17 PM   #84
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isn't it funny o think how they put these trailers together back in the day? here i am, afraid to tow my trailer because i haven't installed the interior walls yet, and they original was probably weaker structurally what what i have now. of course, hindsight is 20/20.
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