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Old 10-06-2005, 11:03 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
. . . I plan to treat my frame with Eastman Rust Incapsulator. It has great reviews. Anyone out there use it?
Here is a previous post: http://www.airforums.com/forum...87&postcount=5
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Old 10-11-2005, 12:03 PM   #44
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Access to frame bottom

I needed to sand blast the bottom side of my frame and drill out rivets. I solved the access by using my engine hoist. Thought I'd share the pictures because it could help someone else solve the same problem.
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Old 10-11-2005, 02:25 PM   #45
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You're right about that. It's a lot easier to work on if you turn it over.
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:52 PM   #46
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Boxing Frame

I had two members in the back that had some rust through spots But most of the metal was in good shape. I could have replaced both sections. However I decided to use a Hot Rod technique and box those parts of the frame. My second concern is the area of the floor where the door is located. This seems to be a weak area because the only major support in that area is the plywood. Here is my thought, this area is prone to getting wet. Wet plywood and a heavy bending moment do not seem to be a good idea. So I have reinforced this area also. See the pictures. What do the rest of you think? Also included is the frame finished with sand blasting and ready for Eastwood rust incapsualation(sp).
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:38 PM   #47
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Looks pretty nice. I did a lot of reinforcement and repairs as well, to fit and properly support my sub-floor tanks.
I have heard of the Eastwood product. It's supposed ot be like POR15.
I used the POR, and was very pleased with it's coverage and durability. The stuff is unbelievably rigid when it's dry, but really watery out of the can. This means it flows into all sorts of small gaps and cracks easily, providing good protection there without much work....my kind of material.

I think supporting the area by the step is a good idea. Mine had a brace there where the folding step snaps on to. Yours missing?
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:40 PM   #48
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You might also consider boxing the main frame rails with 3/16 by 4in flat steel. Especially above the axles.
I know, it's just a small Bambi, and might be overkill. It did add a very nice feel of rigidity to my Overlander.
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:35 AM   #49
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Question It's off to work we go!

Ok folks, tell me I need to do more work. I have taken off all the lower inside skins on my Bambi in order to do the shell off floor replacement, now my question is should I take the rest of the inside skins off and do a complete check for water leaks? I haven't put the shell back on yet. But after reading all the threads about seam leaks, I am concerned. I don't want to my Bambi together again and find it leaks. Tell me your opinions!!! Is it Hi Ho Hi Ho It's off to more work I have to go?
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Old 10-12-2005, 09:44 AM   #50
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Don't do it unless you plan to do other work up there. I took mine out to put in tank vents, A/C wiring and drain, and new electrical work. I checked the seams and fixed leaks while I had the end caps and top skin out, but I don't think I would do it again just to fix leaks. Having the shell off helped locate the leaks, but the repair can be done from the outside with Parbond.

If you do take the upper skins out, wait until you have the shell back on. The skins help to hold the shell rigid while it is off the frame.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:35 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by markdoane
If you do take the upper skins out, wait until you have the shell back on. The skins help to hold the shell rigid while it is off the frame.
DEFINITELY! i left all mone on until i got the front and rear riveted back on the floor channel. even though the inner and outter caps aren't conected in the middle, they are at the windows and first rib. the rigidity they add is well worth preserving. my shell was incredibly flimsy on the saw horses.
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:44 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
...My second concern is the area of the floor where the door is located. This seems to be a weak area because the only major support in that area is the plywood...
hey man,

when i did my step area, i actually replaced both outriggers with the same material the frame is made of. it seems like most trailers sag there when you put your weight on the step. not MINE! you can jump up and down on the step area, and the whole trailer twists slightly, but the floor doesn't flex at all. the more support there the better, in my book! once i get to the door on mine, i'm going to reshape the door frame to hug the body profile as tight as possible, to keep out the water during transit. i've even considered putting either tile or linoleum down at the door area in case it leaks, as we're planning on putting maple flooring down everywhere else.

great job so far! are you going to replace any outter skins?

jp
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Old 10-15-2005, 02:01 PM   #53
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Floor protection/water leaks

Hi all, thanks for the input on the roof seams and leaking. Here is another thought. I use to do a lot of kenitic sculpture and one of the techniques I used to create the basic outside shape of my objects was to apply a thin sheet of aluminum to the plywood structure using contact cement. This worked very well for that applacation. I thought doing the same thing with the floor of my trailer before the shell went back on would be a great idea. However I have not been able to find sheet aluminum that is as wide as the trailer. Do any of you know a source that makes sheets or coils that wide? After the sheeting is applied, the metal is sanded. This makes a great surface for gluing other flooring material down for your final floor. Any thoughts?
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Old 10-15-2005, 02:20 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
I have not been able to find sheet aluminum that is as wide as the trailer. Do any of you know a source that makes sheets or coils that wide? After the sheeting is applied, the metal is sanded. This makes a great surface for gluing other flooring material down for your final floor. Any thoughts?
Don
Hi NCB, I found sheet aluminum as wide as my Caravel at a Truck Trailer Parts/Repair place. They sell aluminum in rolls as long as you want and it is about 104" wide. It is roofing for Semi Trailers. I used it to make a one piece belly pan. What I ended up with was .040. Might be too thick for your needs. You are welcome to have a look at it at Beverly Beach.

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Old 10-20-2005, 08:15 PM   #55
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Frame Progress at last

Finaly the frame is ready. Welding; reinforce step area, box frame in the back, repair weak welds. Sand blasted frame. Painted frame with Eastwood Encapsulator black and silver. The tonge and rear bumper with silver. The main part of frame with black. Next clean, paint, reassemble the brakes and wheels. It feels really good to have things starting to back together!!!
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Old 10-21-2005, 10:12 PM   #56
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An idea for sub-floor material.

As you are in medford, it is not so far to Seattle. The Boeing surplus store has all kinds of materials available. One of the coolest is an aluminum honeycomb structure that comes in sheets. It is basically teo sheets of aluminum that sandwich a honeycomb structure that creates a strong, light and very rigid dimentional sheet. Seems to me that something like this would create the very best floor.

Other than that, high quality marine grade plywood is the best. Leaks are the cause of any sub-floor rot and if you restore your Bamabi properly and use marine grade ply (which uses waterproof glues) the trailer should last longer than you.

Good luck!
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