Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-02-2005, 10:24 PM   #41
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
The Sand man Cometh

Jordon, The sand blaster has been doing a great job. I have used 10 bags of sand and will probably use anothe 4 or 5 before I'm done. I have two places on the frame that I will have to reenforce. Small spots of daylight showing through. You didn't mention sand in the ears. It seems to get everywhere! I plan to treat my frame with Eastman Rust Incapsulator. It has great reviews. Anyone out there use it? It's been raining here the last two days so I am working on the wood work for the Bambi. I will include some pictures probably tomarrow.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Kitchen cabinet front clamp_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	40.9 KB
ID:	15031  
__________________

NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2005, 09:11 AM   #42
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Sand Blaster/urbanfood

urbanfood, I purchased the sand blaster at Harbor Freight. If I remember right it was aroulnd $70. on sale. You do need a pretty good size air compressor to push it however. If you you think you might buy on check out what size compressor you will need before you buy. It is nice to use and watch great chunks of rust disappear before you eyes.
NorCal Bambi
__________________

NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2005, 10:03 AM   #43
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,318
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
. . . I plan to treat my frame with Eastman Rust Incapsulator. It has great reviews. Anyone out there use it?
Here is a previous post: http://www.airforums.com/forum...87&postcount=5
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 11:03 AM   #44
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Access to frame bottom

I needed to sand blast the bottom side of my frame and drill out rivets. I solved the access by using my engine hoist. Thought I'd share the pictures because it could help someone else solve the same problem.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Under frame 1c_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	53.4 KB
ID:	15151   Click image for larger version

Name:	Under frame 2b_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	153
Size:	66.6 KB
ID:	15152  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Under frame 3_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	158
Size:	49.5 KB
ID:	15153  
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 01:25 PM   #45
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,318
Images: 59
You're right about that. It's a lot easier to work on if you turn it over.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Axle 009.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	60.2 KB
ID:	15158  
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 08:52 PM   #46
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Boxing Frame

I had two members in the back that had some rust through spots But most of the metal was in good shape. I could have replaced both sections. However I decided to use a Hot Rod technique and box those parts of the frame. My second concern is the area of the floor where the door is located. This seems to be a weak area because the only major support in that area is the plywood. Here is my thought, this area is prone to getting wet. Wet plywood and a heavy bending moment do not seem to be a good idea. So I have reinforced this area also. See the pictures. What do the rest of you think? Also included is the frame finished with sand blasting and ready for Eastwood rust incapsualation(sp).
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Box Frame 1_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	36.4 KB
ID:	15168   Click image for larger version

Name:	Box Frame 2_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	142
Size:	45.4 KB
ID:	15169  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Box Frame 3_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	42.1 KB
ID:	15170   Click image for larger version

Name:	Box Frame 4_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	146
Size:	41.3 KB
ID:	15171  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Box Frame 5_Layer 1.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	46.9 KB
ID:	15172  
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 09:38 PM   #47
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
Looks pretty nice. I did a lot of reinforcement and repairs as well, to fit and properly support my sub-floor tanks.
I have heard of the Eastwood product. It's supposed ot be like POR15.
I used the POR, and was very pleased with it's coverage and durability. The stuff is unbelievably rigid when it's dry, but really watery out of the can. This means it flows into all sorts of small gaps and cracks easily, providing good protection there without much work....my kind of material.

I think supporting the area by the step is a good idea. Mine had a brace there where the folding step snaps on to. Yours missing?
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2005, 09:40 PM   #48
uwe
418
 
uwe's Avatar
 
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley , California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,767
Images: 41
Send a message via Skype™ to uwe
You might also consider boxing the main frame rails with 3/16 by 4in flat steel. Especially above the axles.
I know, it's just a small Bambi, and might be overkill. It did add a very nice feel of rigidity to my Overlander.
__________________
Uwe
www.area63productions.com
uwe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 08:35 AM   #49
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Question It's off to work we go!

Ok folks, tell me I need to do more work. I have taken off all the lower inside skins on my Bambi in order to do the shell off floor replacement, now my question is should I take the rest of the inside skins off and do a complete check for water leaks? I haven't put the shell back on yet. But after reading all the threads about seam leaks, I am concerned. I don't want to my Bambi together again and find it leaks. Tell me your opinions!!! Is it Hi Ho Hi Ho It's off to more work I have to go?
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 08:44 AM   #50
Site Team
 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,318
Images: 59
Don't do it unless you plan to do other work up there. I took mine out to put in tank vents, A/C wiring and drain, and new electrical work. I checked the seams and fixed leaks while I had the end caps and top skin out, but I don't think I would do it again just to fix leaks. Having the shell off helped locate the leaks, but the repair can be done from the outside with Parbond.

If you do take the upper skins out, wait until you have the shell back on. The skins help to hold the shell rigid while it is off the frame.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 09:35 PM   #51
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
If you do take the upper skins out, wait until you have the shell back on. The skins help to hold the shell rigid while it is off the frame.
DEFINITELY! i left all mone on until i got the front and rear riveted back on the floor channel. even though the inner and outter caps aren't conected in the middle, they are at the windows and first rib. the rigidity they add is well worth preserving. my shell was incredibly flimsy on the saw horses.
__________________

8576
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2005, 09:44 PM   #52
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
...My second concern is the area of the floor where the door is located. This seems to be a weak area because the only major support in that area is the plywood...
hey man,

when i did my step area, i actually replaced both outriggers with the same material the frame is made of. it seems like most trailers sag there when you put your weight on the step. not MINE! you can jump up and down on the step area, and the whole trailer twists slightly, but the floor doesn't flex at all. the more support there the better, in my book! once i get to the door on mine, i'm going to reshape the door frame to hug the body profile as tight as possible, to keep out the water during transit. i've even considered putting either tile or linoleum down at the door area in case it leaks, as we're planning on putting maple flooring down everywhere else.

great job so far! are you going to replace any outter skins?

jp
__________________

8576
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2005, 01:01 PM   #53
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Floor protection/water leaks

Hi all, thanks for the input on the roof seams and leaking. Here is another thought. I use to do a lot of kenitic sculpture and one of the techniques I used to create the basic outside shape of my objects was to apply a thin sheet of aluminum to the plywood structure using contact cement. This worked very well for that applacation. I thought doing the same thing with the floor of my trailer before the shell went back on would be a great idea. However I have not been able to find sheet aluminum that is as wide as the trailer. Do any of you know a source that makes sheets or coils that wide? After the sheeting is applied, the metal is sanded. This makes a great surface for gluing other flooring material down for your final floor. Any thoughts?
Don
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2005, 01:20 PM   #54
Rivet Master
 
C Johnson's Avatar

 
1965 17' Caravel
1968 28' Ambassador
Butte , Montana
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,195
Images: 326
Send a message via MSN to C Johnson Send a message via Yahoo to C Johnson
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
I have not been able to find sheet aluminum that is as wide as the trailer. Do any of you know a source that makes sheets or coils that wide? After the sheeting is applied, the metal is sanded. This makes a great surface for gluing other flooring material down for your final floor. Any thoughts?
Don
Hi NCB, I found sheet aluminum as wide as my Caravel at a Truck Trailer Parts/Repair place. They sell aluminum in rolls as long as you want and it is about 104" wide. It is roofing for Semi Trailers. I used it to make a one piece belly pan. What I ended up with was .040. Might be too thick for your needs. You are welcome to have a look at it at Beverly Beach.

Chris
__________________
AIR # 7276, WBCCI # 7276
Photos of Project 2k5
Project 2k5
Life is a journey, not a destination
C Johnson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2005, 07:15 PM   #55
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Frame Progress at last

Finaly the frame is ready. Welding; reinforce step area, box frame in the back, repair weak welds. Sand blasted frame. Painted frame with Eastwood Encapsulator black and silver. The tonge and rear bumper with silver. The main part of frame with black. Next clean, paint, reassemble the brakes and wheels. It feels really good to have things starting to back together!!!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Frame finish1.jpg
Views:	141
Size:	192.0 KB
ID:	15307   Click image for larger version

Name:	Frame finish 2.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	160.0 KB
ID:	15308  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Frame tonge.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	192.0 KB
ID:	15309  
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2005, 09:12 PM   #56
1 Rivet Member
 
1977 31' Sovereign
Lake Oswego , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 13
An idea for sub-floor material.

As you are in medford, it is not so far to Seattle. The Boeing surplus store has all kinds of materials available. One of the coolest is an aluminum honeycomb structure that comes in sheets. It is basically teo sheets of aluminum that sandwich a honeycomb structure that creates a strong, light and very rigid dimentional sheet. Seems to me that something like this would create the very best floor.

Other than that, high quality marine grade plywood is the best. Leaks are the cause of any sub-floor rot and if you restore your Bamabi properly and use marine grade ply (which uses waterproof glues) the trailer should last longer than you.

Good luck!
topazken is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2005, 09:26 PM   #57
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
...It feels really good to have things starting to back together!!!
i know the feeling, man! once the DEstruction stope and the CONSTRUCTION takes off, things get fun. i can't WAIT to get the skin done and move inside. each step gets more rewarding than the one before it. the frame part seemed to take forever.

are you going to replace any skin panels? what did you decide to do with the belly pan? are you fabricating everything new?

jp
__________________

8576
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-21-2005, 10:51 PM   #58
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Here is what I'm thinking.

Here is what I'm planning for the floor. I have used plywood that is 1/32 thinner than the 5/8" that was original. It is exterior grade so has water proof glue. Next I'm going to laminate the floor with sheet aluminum. One complete sheet to cover the hole floor. My thought is this will give me the best protection from water leaks. I'm even planning on wrapping it around the edges for added protection. Edges will be epoxy sealed as well. The aluminum will be sanded with heavy paper to prepare it for the linoleum. I am planning on redoing the inside to original. I have already found the paints needed to reproduce the interior wood finish. I will probably redo the zolotone as well. At this time I am planning on the aluminum foil insulation on the shell. Maybe I'll try the same thing on the floor. I am not planning on replacing any skins. They are all in good shape. There is a dent in the panel by the door. Suicide door opening when not planned. Some time in the past. I believe I can work the dent out. I probably should replace the belly skins but haven't decided yet.
What do you think about my lamination floor idea?
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2005, 04:19 AM   #59
Addicted to Aluminum
 
A-Merry-Can's Avatar
 
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
What do you think about my lamination floor idea?
definitely sounds interesting, that's for sure! i don't think i've ever seen any floor treated that way. on my floor, the only area that was really bad was near the edges, where the water wicked into the untreated wood, particularly at the front, on mine.

if you do go this route, be sure to tuck the edges in really well. i had to re-do my belly pan around the curves to get things perfectly vertical (very important when you re-fit the shell!)

as for your suicide door dent, you will probably want to replace some of the channel there. my door did the same thing, and the channels were so badly bent, there was no way to salvage it. the dent was so extreme, it actually effected the way the door closed. you might get lucky and not have a bent section. on mine, the door handle hits almost directly on the horizontal breal between the lower and upper panel. i made mine, as per original. 040, 1 1/2" wide, 3/4 edges. be sure to drill out the holes for the wiring and reinstall the grommets before you put the channel back in. i didn't realize how bad the dent was until i replaced the channel. it's much stronger now as well. i have a similar dent on the streetside that i'll be addressing today when i rivet in the upper panel.

good luck, man!

jp
__________________

8576
there's always room for one more!
A-Merry-Can is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-02-2005, 05:22 PM   #60
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Axel replace or keep?

I had several discussions at the Beverly Beach rally on my axel and wheather it should be replaced or needed to be replaced. During the discussion I decided that the axel had been replaced some time in the past because of the size of the spindle. Here are some right and left pictures of my axels. Would like comments from anyone who has an idea. Also two suppliers were mentioned. I have forgot who they are. Would like info again. You know senior moments!!!The space between the Spindle shaft that connects to the axel and the steel stop is as follows: left two fingers, right one finger.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Axel rt.jpg
Views:	133
Size:	192.0 KB
ID:	15956   Click image for larger version

Name:	Axel lft.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	160.0 KB
ID:	15957  

__________________

NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
×