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uwe · 02-11-2007, 01:18 PM

We recreated it for 55cloud's frame, using Dexter's weld on brackets, and extended them about a foot on each side. I wish I had some pictures of teh conversion. It turned out very well.

markdoane · 02-11-2007, 02:10 PM

You are the man.

Sorry, I mean "U DA MAN!"

NorCal Bambi · 02-11-2007, 02:28 PM

This forum is so great. What would we do without each other? I know I'd have make several mistakes on my Bambi. I'd also say that the frame reinforcement is a must. Thanks I hope you take lots of pictures as you work and put them on the forum. We all gain.
Don

kaffe_1477 · 02-11-2007, 08:39 PM

From the looks of things, the guts of my heater look the same as yours.

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but upon a closer look....

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I thought that something strange was going on...the small hole that you see is in the tube that feeds the pilot. it appears to have rotted out. I think I will have the A/C guys at work re-plumb me a copper line.

Thanks for the help...the picture that you posted of your heater made me feel more confident about taking mine apart.

NorCal Bambi · 02-11-2007, 09:37 PM

kaffe, glad you found the problem on your heater. We really like ours. They are simple, and to us that's a positive. Don't forgit to do a carbon monixide test.
Don

Safari Tim · 02-11-2007, 09:47 PM

OK, so I'm back to needing a mounting plate made and welded to the outside of the frame rail.

I needs to be long enough to go from one axle to the next in one continuous peice. Then I order the Dexter with the brackets reversed and it gets bolted from the side.

Do I also need a renforcement peice on the inside frame rail runing from axle to axle with notches over the tube? I think Uwe was telling me this.

Don, why would I have to allow for the thickness of the mounting plate? If I measure the outside frame to outside frame dimension with the reversed brackets, shouldn't they line up even with the outside frame rails? If so, they'd bolt right to the made up mouting plate coming down the side.

-Tim

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

If you're going from leaf springs, you might have a reinforcing plate, but not a mounting plate that hangs down below the frame rail.

Need to fab one and weld it on. I'd worry about the frame tube buckling without it.

edit: don't forget to allow for the thickness of the mounting plate when you order axles.

markdoane · 02-11-2007, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

Don, why would I have to allow for the thickness of the mounting plate? If I measure the outside frame to outside frame dimension with the reversed brackets, shouldn't they line up even with the outside frame rails? If so, they'd bolt right to the made up mouting plate coming down the side.

-Tim

If you plan to do the reversed bracket, the outside frame dimension would be the same as the bracket dimension.

On my '59 Tradewind, the outside frame dimension is 58.00 inches. With the reinforcing plate (which is 40.00" long for a single axle), the frame is 58.25". The reinforcing plates are about 8 gauge. So if you weld the axle mounting plate on top of the reinforcing plate, the outside dimension needs to include the reinforcing plate.

Unless you decide to take the reinforcing plate off when you remove the spring mounts.

I'm sure you have seen this part of the Dexter installation instructions.

I'm saying exercise caution, measure twice, all that. Would hate to need to shim out to make the axle fit. Although that would be much better than having the brackets too wide.

You can see the edge of the reinforcing plate in this picture.

NorCal Bambi · 02-11-2007, 10:23 PM

Tim, Here is a picture of the original mounting plate for the axle on my trailer. This was for a Henshen axle. Yes, you can have the mounts reversed by Dexter to match the original type mounting brackets. Here is the explanation of my quick and dirty photo. It's the best I have of this plate. You need to ignore the fact that the photo shows the part that I just cut out. #1 outlines the outside shape that is welded to the frame. the plate is about a 1/4" piece of steel. #2 Marks where I cut the piece out for my changes. You don't necessarly need to do this if you go for the original outside mounting. #4 is a triangle piece of metal that is welded on to work as a stop. This stop prevents the inside of the fender from being damaged when the trailer hits a hard bump. #4 is a notch in the mounting bracket that the axle passed through. It also functions to locate the axle in the correct position. If I read Uwe's suggestion correctly this plate should run from the mounting position of one spring mount on the frame to the second spring mount. A second piece of plate welded on the inside of the frame, couldn't hurt! I hope the others jump in and make comments. When I get their information I think I will make a drawing for others to consider. The second picture shows the shock mounting for this type of axle.
Don

markdoane · 02-12-2007, 05:34 AM

Tim,

I'm going to revise what I said above about the frame and bracket width, regarding allowing for the thickness of the reinforcing plate.

You would be better off, I think, to ignore the reinforcing plate thickness (assuming you have one) when you order the bracket spacing. If the brackets are a little narrow, it would not be a difficult thing to shim out on one or both sides.

And that gives you the option of leaving in or removing the reinforcing plate, now or in the future.

markdoane · 02-12-2007, 07:10 AM

Apology:

I shouldn't write until I've had a cup of coffee. Hope you understood the drivel.

uwe · 02-12-2007, 07:20 AM

It's best to crawl under a new Airstream, and take a look. Other than the shock mounts, you are basically copying whats under a new Airstream. The axles under my 63 have precisely the same mounting seup as my 71 had, which is the same as an 07.

Safari Tim · 02-12-2007, 10:43 AM

Yes, it is hard to visualize for me. Expecially since I'm not mechanically inclined.

But I think I'm getting the picture now thanks to everyone's patience.

kaffe_1477 · 02-13-2007, 08:58 PM

Got the heater working...man it gets warm. Is there any way to adjust the pilot? The heater pumps out a small amount of heat with just the pilot lit. this may not be a bad thing...it could be like a low setting.

NorCal Bambi · 02-14-2007, 08:32 AM

kaffe, glad to hear you got your heater working. Yes, ours puts out lots of heat also. I find that if i look into the opening for lighting the heater and turn down the heat very slowly, that I can get a low heat setting without the main heat going to just the pilot light only. We always keep the top vent open a bit when using the heater. This seem like a waste of heat but it keep the inside of the trailer dry. Do you have a thread with pictures of your rig. I'd sure like to see your rig.
Don

NorCal Bambi · 03-19-2007, 04:10 PM

Well, I'm finally getting around to finishing the installation of the Wal Mart room air conditioner under the bed in our Bambi. I will be using the side doors one use to be for battery access. My main concern is that they are a little smaller than required. This could cause a freeze up of the exchanger during heavy use. Anybody have any thoughts on this?
Don

A-Merry-Can · 03-19-2007, 05:57 PM

no clue, but i'm planning a basement unit in both of my shorties. are you ducting it in a cabinet or something to get teh cold air up high? as for the main unit, i thought about maybe mounting a 12V fan behind it to aid in cooling... along with a drip-tray of course.

jp

fastrob · 03-19-2007, 06:02 PM

Don,

The outside air usually goes in through the sides and goes out through the radiator/heat exchanger.
I thought about a vent from the bottom for the sides.
The pool of water/condensate from the a/c body pan gets sprayed by the fan on to the radiator/exchanger and assists heat transfer. Overflow drips out.
Of course a stagnant pool of water could pose a bit of a concern. Our little house window a/c gets green and sheds black gunk when washed out.

Rob

fastrob · 03-21-2007, 01:14 PM

Don,

Just talked with a HVAC guy to clear up questions.
The window type a/c is better for me than that overhead unit for 2 reasons that especially bother me;
1. The water from the evaporator (COOL) is above the compartment. This waste water can be used to increase the efficiency of the unit by blowing it over the condensor (hot). The window type keep the condensate further away from the air circulated, although I am sure the overhead units are designed with that in mind.
2. I do not want to go on the roof to work on my unit.

To get back to your question:
2 ways to vent the airflow, 1 is to go wide, the other is to go down with the vent and either pick up or dump out that hot air from the hot condensor.
Make any sense?
I suggest go wide and give the small unit a big home. That way if you need a larger a/c you can slip out the little one and put in a bigger one.

Rob

NorCal Bambi · 03-21-2007, 01:32 PM

fastrob, thanks for the input. I'm going to take some pictures to post and a sketch or two. I'd be interested in you input.
Thanks Don

A-Merry-Can · 03-28-2007, 06:05 AM

i was thinking about a couple of 12V fans to aide in cooling the unit. what do you guys think of that? I like the idea of ducting part of it through the floor, like the fridge.

as for the outter skin, i really wanted to find a nice, louvered panel, but have had trouble finding a source for sustom sizes. in leiu of that, I was planning on fabricating something that uses an original 62 heater cover (for the pseudo-originality look), but was concerned about airflow through it.

looking forward to your sketch, Don! 3D as always?

jp