The rivit nuts look like a great idea! I can envision some places where I could use them when I get a little furnther along in my remodel.
For fiberglass holes maybe you could use a plastic expansion type of nut with a little epoxy applied around the outside when you insert it. Tighten up the screw so the nut spreads out behind the fiberglass and holds tightly in place while the epoxy sets up.
Malcolm
Sounds like a good idea. I'll try and let you know how it works.
Don
My awning anchor points nearly all pulled away on me at the end of last year. I used rivet nuts to remount the awning successfully even though the pull throughs left the holes in the skin looking more like shattered glass. I don't have time to post it now, but I probably have ~10 photos that I'll need to get ready. I think it was a pretty slick repair although I wasn't meticulous about it.
I'll post that stuff tonight, but if you want to do fiberglass I'd just suggest that you first glue a large diameter aluminum washer directly behind your mount hole on the fiberglass and maybe a small one on the front that matches your rivet nut diameter. That way your expansion won't get much larger than that backside washer and the crush action should just pull your backside washer tight against the front. Just a thought -- your mileage my vary...
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Your solution would be the best. I wish I would have thought of it when I had the shell out of the trailer. This would be a great suggestion to pass on to those starting a restoration. If you don't mind I'll pass your idea along when I see someone starting a restoration.
Thanks Don
Here are the dimensions of the plywood base to the couch. The plywood is 73'x29 5/16"x1/4". The leading trim edge is 73"x 3 1/2"x3/4". The plywood fits in a Dado groove that is 1" from the top of the leading edge trim. The depth of the Dado is 7/16" See photos. Two photos show how sliders are attached to the plywood base.
Don
The plywood base of the street side bed slides out on wooden sliders. Picture #1 shows the slider parts with one of the sliders in a slightly out position. The center piece in the slider is a stop device, so the bed can only come out so far. The sliders are only attached to the back frame and the plywood base. This is so the plywood base can be slightly lifted when the bed is slid out or pushed back in. If you have any other questions let me know.
Don
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Glen Coombe AIR #8416
1984 28' Funeral Coach
Golf Professional Sales Rolling Showroom & PuttLab
"I'm not an expert. But I did sleep in an Airstream last night."
Well, it's starting to look like a Bambi again. I've been refinishing the original interior walls and furniture. Two of the original wall panels were in good enough condition that they could be refinished. The rest were replaced with new plywood. Water had attacked the original panels and the plywood had separated up the wall as much as a foot. The rest of the solid oak wood used in the cabinets and beds was still in good condition. After the iron stains from the water was removed they were re-stained and finished with varathane. All walls needed a process of refitting. Today I spent considerable finishing the hook up of the electrical. And much to my pleasure, it all works. We have keep close to the original color scheme. We have made several subtle changes. I think it looks better. I've included a few pictures so you might see how its coming.
Don
awesome work, man! gives motivation to the temporarily sidlined restoreres such as myself! ha!
you wanna watch a newborn for a week or so so's i can get back to work?
jp
Thanks. One of my newborns is pushing 25 and the other is pushing 40. A newborn grandchild would be cool. My distractions are aches, pains, loss of memory. and general distractions. Somehow a newborn doesn't sound bad.
See how much we forget as time passes.
Don
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