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Old 05-10-2006, 11:04 PM   #309
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Here a few pictures of the color that I created by mixing. The background color was not changed by the mixing. The only thing that changed was the speck color. Of the four colors I used 3 worked fine. The blue did not want to create a uniform pattern. I'm not sure why. I could speculate if someone is interested. The other problem I had was as soon as I realized that I had not bought enough paint for the job. I tried to stretch the paint coverage. As you can see in the fourth pic. that did not work. Zolatone requires a uniform coverage.
Don
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:13 PM   #310
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Overspray

Another thing I've learned that I would like to share is overspray. I have used several different type of paint. Never have I seen one with so much overspray. Here is my suggestion on this. If the outside of your trailer is finished like you want it before you spray Zolatone. Cover every square inch of it that you don't want painted. The problem is the small specks of paint can fly for quite a distance. When they hit they stick. Every part of my trailer has little specks on it. They seem to dry the moment they hit a surface. The only thing I have found to remove them is aircraft Paint remover. I haven't done the outside of my trailer yet so its not a big problem. If I had, I would have been very upset. This picture shows the Zolatone that went through the louvers in the back door and covered the back bumper.
Don
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Old 05-10-2006, 11:45 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Uwe, Thanks for the info. I have the equipment to spray the Zolatone. Once I was set up it was not that hard to do. I was unable to find a color that matched my trailer. I looked in the section you mentioned but couldn't find any color samples. However I have already made a commitment on Apollo Gray 20-11. to go over the top of my first attempt. In fact I should be spraying tomorrow. Just for the sake of future information, if you could send me the information on the Zolatome type you mentioned. I will send for a color sample sheet from Zolatone.
Don
Don,

PM me your address, and I will send my sample pack to you. I won't need it for a while, anyways.
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Old 05-11-2006, 03:12 PM   #312
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Don, is that a mount point for a hitch on your rear bumper? Do you plan to remove that?
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Old 05-11-2006, 09:58 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Don, is that a mount point for a hitch on your rear bumper? Do you plan to remove that?
Yes it is a hitch mount point. When we got the trailer there was a 1 7/8 ball on it. The trailer had been in a state where you can pull a trailer behind a trailer. I haven't decided if I'll remove it. Thought it might be a good place for a third brake light when on the road. Or maybe a flashing neon sign that says Airstream Rules.
Don
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Old 05-11-2006, 10:07 PM   #314
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Second try success

The second attempt with the Zolatone came out perfect. The new choice in color is much closer to the original. The first picture is of "Zola-Vader". The second shows the new color and coverage. One thing I wanted to pass on in the area of technique. The directions state that to clean the spray gun first use water and then Lacquer thinner. The first time I use cold water and got a bunch of gunk in my gun that took 2 hours to clean out. The second time I used very hot water. The gun came out very clean. Another major step complete. Now onward to the interior.
Don
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Old 05-12-2006, 11:43 AM   #315
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Looks great Don. Sorry it set you back extra money, but it looks to be worth every penny.

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Old 05-13-2006, 11:44 PM   #316
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Interior

Working on the interior wall panels. There are 6 in my trailer. 4 of the six had to be replaces. Water damage in the bottom of the panels was very extensive. For future protection I will seal the end grain areas of the plywood before installation. It's obvious that they worked like giant wicks in the past. Original panels had to be stripped of all stain and paint with stripper before repainting. Also all the Oak facing frames needed to be stripped. My plan is to stain to match the original and then seal with a Varithane type paint. I plan to wax the wood surfaces on a regular basis. My wife suggested to paint the aluminum channel the attachés the wall panels to the wall a dark green. I think it worked out real well. It makes a nice accent. What do you think.
Don
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:40 PM   #317
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More plumbing

I've been working on reinstalling the toilet/shower. Also the plumbing for vents and the sink. This is all stock. The only thing I have done is replace parts that are in bad shape. I would like to put a new layer of gel coat on the fiberglass shower unit. Anyone have a good supplier? The picture shows the present point of assembly. I've been refinishing all the wood interior parts in preparation for them going back in place.
Don
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Old 05-16-2006, 09:50 PM   #318
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Rivet nuts

Has anyone used rivet nuts? I find them to be great! Most of the wood furniture in our Bambi was screwed to the Aluminum walls with long Sheet metal screws. After the many years of bouncing around on the roads of America, the holes in the aluminum are enlarged. The rivet nuts will fill the enlarged hole and make a very germinate and strong repair. Regular screws will now be used instead of sheet metal screws. The following pictures show the tool needed, a box of rivet nuts, a couple of pics of a sample to show what they look like after installation. They don't work in the fiberglass. The crush process pulls them right through the fiberglass. I'm still looking for a solution to the enlarged fiberglass holes.
Don
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Old 05-16-2006, 11:59 PM   #319
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Hello NorCal bambi,

I had my water pressure tank built by a welding shop that is specialized in stainless steel and fabrication .One of the best you,ll find .I will ask him what he would build another for.Mine was 450.00 ,,high grade stainless steel .Its definatley heavier than the aluminum tank but then i got rid of the steel propane tanks in favor of worthington aluminum tanks.I really like the pressure tank ,even when the air pressure is at 10 psi at the inside gauge or less ,you can turn on the faucet and fill your water glass quickly.Ive ran the shower ,youll want the pressure to be up .Most of the time you wont need to run the air compressor unless your using the shower,if you have one.If the tank is full the pressure comes up very fast then automatically shuts off .It retains the original self contained idea of the coach ,as I still have the air fill pressure fitting on the fill pipe on the front for manual air pressure filling .I can use a portable compressor to fill outside if the main unit goes bad. I run the compressor to maintain sufficient pressure ,not necessarily max pressure,unless the shower is being used,then i run the compressor continuously ,which is only about 5 minutes as 10 gallons of hot water can be used rather quickly.I let you know about the tank price .

Scott
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:17 AM   #320
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Don,

The rivit nuts look like a great idea! I can envision some places where I could use them when I get a little furnther along in my remodel.

For fiberglass holes maybe you could use a plastic expansion type of nut with a little epoxy applied around the outside when you insert it. Tighten up the screw so the nut spreads out behind the fiberglass and holds tightly in place while the epoxy sets up.

Malcolm
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Old 05-17-2006, 08:42 AM   #321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Don,

The rivit nuts look like a great idea! I can envision some places where I could use them when I get a little furnther along in my remodel.

For fiberglass holes maybe you could use a plastic expansion type of nut with a little epoxy applied around the outside when you insert it. Tighten up the screw so the nut spreads out behind the fiberglass and holds tightly in place while the epoxy sets up.

Malcolm
Sounds like a good idea. I'll try and let you know how it works.
Don
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Old 05-17-2006, 08:44 AM   #322
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 65GT
Don,

My awning anchor points nearly all pulled away on me at the end of last year. I used rivet nuts to remount the awning successfully even though the pull throughs left the holes in the skin looking more like shattered glass. I don't have time to post it now, but I probably have ~10 photos that I'll need to get ready. I think it was a pretty slick repair although I wasn't meticulous about it.

I'll post that stuff tonight, but if you want to do fiberglass I'd just suggest that you first glue a large diameter aluminum washer directly behind your mount hole on the fiberglass and maybe a small one on the front that matches your rivet nut diameter. That way your expansion won't get much larger than that backside washer and the crush action should just pull your backside washer tight against the front. Just a thought -- your mileage my vary...

__
Your solution would be the best. I wish I would have thought of it when I had the shell out of the trailer. This would be a great suggestion to pass on to those starting a restoration. If you don't mind I'll pass your idea along when I see someone starting a restoration.
Thanks Don
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