In my original floor the hole for the toilet pass through was very large. I believe that this is one of the places that mice found for entrance into the trailer. So I am trying to create a custom hole design that will allow for very little space. Hopefully this will reduce the potential for mice to find entry. The first picture shows the mounting flange on the bottom of the black water holding tank. I used this area to make a template. I placed the tank on the floor in the proper location. My hand was too large so my wife reached through the top hole and drew a circle around the bottom hole. This located the basic opening in the proper place. The template was then used to create a pattern on the floor. This process took many fits and refits to get everything located in the right place. The tank bracket now slips into the floor. The depth of the flange may require routing out a larger square hole in the top of the plywood to lower the tank. This may be necessary to attach the valve control on the bottom side of the floor. When the unit is ready for the final mounting I will fill any remaining space with vulcome.
The fit of the head parts to the trailer sides was really bad. I think most of this had occurred when a PO had done repair work. Thanks to Uwe's description of how he had fit a square shape into a round hole. I have made new parts and am pleased with the fit. Thought I'd include some pictures to go with Uwe's description. Uwe feel free to add or make comments. The first pictures show the gaps. The next show the making of the template.
Too make a pattern line further away from the wall, I put two rubber grommets on the pen. You can see how this created a line further away from the wall. This is a process of many steps. You have to draw, re-cut, draw, re-cut, etc. Many times working up to the final fit. Also you have to realize that the diameter of the new line is slightly different from the wall. So that final fit may require careful sanding.
This is a process of many steps. You have to draw, re-cut, draw, re-cut, etc. Many times working up to the final fit. Also you have to realize that the diameter of the new line is slightly different from the wall. So that final fit may require careful sanding.
Don, this is a frequent task in boatbuilding, particularly for fitting bulkheads, interior joinery and hull panels in chine-hulled vessels. This procedure to do it is called "spiling", and it enables a first time fit, straight off the saw, with no planing or sanding. A professional boat-builder could not afford the time for repeated fittings. The process is sometimes described erroneously, even in boat-building texts.
The essential point is that by using the method you describe, you correctly state that radii of curvature will not be accurately reproduced. When spiling, the original shape is copied by transferring a duplicate line always in the same direction, and not at right angles to the original line, as you show. You place the new piece of plywood perhaps 3 inches away from the old perimeter line that is to be copied. Then use a stick slightly longer than 3 inches (or an open pair of dividers), and transfer the line to be copied, but the stick must remain throughout orientated in the same compass direction. The copied line will then be identical to the original line. If you then use a sharp hand panel saw, the curves will be smooth because of the wide blade, and no re-fitting, planing or sanding will be required. I talk from many months of wooden boat-building, and the fitting of dozens of spiled plywood panels.
The technique you describe can be used if it is first used to make a pattern in paper or cardboard, and then the procedure is reversed to reproduce the original line. Any error in radii of curvature is thus eliminated by reversing the process.
If the final piece of plywood cannot be fitted within a few inches of its destination, perhaps because it has to be fitted inside a cupboard or other restricted area, a cardboard, paper or thin plywood template may be created as an intermediate step. Then, either method may be used.
Fitting a spiled panel straight off the saw is a very satisfying process. I have also used spiling to fit laminate flooring in complex areas. I also used it when I built a small cupboard to fit just inside the entrance door of our trailer. It's back had to curve nicely to fit the trailer walls, and, more importantly, it holds 12 bottles of wine!
Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
nickcrowhurst, Wow thanks for the input. I'm going out to try it right now.
I have always admired the work of boat builders. Their craftsmanship is such a pleasure. It never ceases to amaze me how obvious something seems once someone shows you how.
Today was a busy day. With the help on my wife and mother-in-law we installed the vinyl flooring. Even with floor leveling and sanding you can still see some of the plywood joints etc. However I'm satisfied with the results.
I had mentioned in an earlier post that the door needed work. Besides having the door fly open on our first after rebuild trip, the door did not close well when we first bought the trailer. So far I removed the bottom skin and the right side of the window skin. The wooden block that the latch hardware attached to is broken. This will be replaced in the next couple of days. I plan on using a slightly larger piece. Hopefully this will prevent the same brakes in the future. Several items were noticed on inspection of the door. Here is a quick list. Many of the rivets attaching the hinges to the door were loose. There were several black metal to metal rub marks caused by misalignment. Rivets in the door itself as well as the frame around the opening of the body were causing misalignment because of contact with the corresponding frame or door part. Bucking both the types of rivets reduced this problem. The hinges were bent in several small areas. Also the hinge pin in the bottom hinge was bent and needed to be straightened. The door is currently 90% better than it was when I started. For those of you who have done door work before you know how many small items can affect door alignment. I'm including several pictures for reference. This could be discussed in greater detail, If anyone is interested.
With the help on my wife and mother-in-law we installed the vinyl flooring. Even with floor leveling and sanding you can still see some of the plywood joints etc. However I'm satisfied with the results.
Holy Cow, 91! At age 86, once upon a time, I went to see my grandad. I found him out out in the barn furiously pulling the starter to an old Snapper lawn mower that refused to turn over. He worked on that cotton-pickin' thing all afternoon in the hot Georgia summer before he got it running again. We lost at him at age 92 a few years back. And he is surely missed.
The floor looks pretty darn good to me, Don. If you don't point out those flaws, we'll never see 'em.
I have a similar problem with my door not wanting to close "all the way". In my case, I think it's because the floor/frame/outer shell connection is just a bit off on the latch side of the door. I tried to correct for it when we put the floor back in, but didn't have much luck. I've thought about adjusting the plate the lock closes into to get a better fit, just haven't gotten there yet (I think a locksmith calls it an "anvil"). The other thing I'm gonna do is add a deadbolt just below the door latch/lock. That will keep it from flying open whilst goning down the road, but won't fix the basic problem of misalignment. Oh well, life is a series of compromises, right?
Easy, this is a relative term. By easy I mean the actual reshaping not necessarily the process. The pictures are limited. Sorry I was too busy trying to figure out the solution. So here is the process I went through. Step 1, remove the inside panels of the door. the bottom and the two small ones to the sides of the window. Step 2 remove the lock mechanisms. Step 3 remove the wood block that the locks were fastened to. Step 4 inspect all parts of the door for broken or poorly connected parts. In my trailer the horizontal bracing inside the door was not riveted correctly. A problem I have had during the entire restoration is as follows. When drilling a hole through more than one piece of metal the inner piece of metal will often be deflected away from the drill bit. So no hole is drilled through the inner metal. The result is the rivet does not connect the pieces it was designed to connect. I found that this had happened in all the horizontal supports of my door during original construction. The horizontal support pieces then needed to be straightened out and then re drilled. When drilling the new holes, I found that it was necessary to hold the pieces together with a pair of pliers while drilling. Step 5 Close the door with a very soft touch. Just until the door touches the door frame. Now with one finger make a very light bouncing touch movement to the door. The door will be lightly making a bouncing contact with the door frame. Again this must be done very lightly. While you are doing this movement take turns inspecting each hinge. Here is what you are looking for during this process. If the door is binding some where one or both of the hinges will appear to stop moving before door jam contact, and the metal around the door will deform before door jam contact. My suggestion here is to go back to the earlier discussions in this forum of hinge alignment. NOTE, the block of wood that holds the lock mechanism in place is or was the major cause of poor door shape in my trailer. This may have been a later change when the dead bolt was installed. I don't know if this piece of wood was stock. The block of wood is square in shape not rounded to match the shape of the metal door. This caused the door to be pulled out away from the trailer shape. NOTE 2, In the picture of the door with everything removed you can see a red line. This area of the door frame is very weak. When making a new wood block I took the time to make it match the shape of the outside skin. NOW shaping the door to match the door jam. In my case the top of the door and the bottom of the door were pulled away from the door frame. A small block of wood about 1 1/2" X 1 1/2" was placed between the door and door jam. The block was placed at the location of the red line. Careful, with the locks and block of wood reduced the door will bend very easy. By placing small blocks near the top and bottom of the door and pushing near the red line the door can be bent the other way. Step 5 return to the before mentioned bouncing method to check the door shape and the hinge movement. Small adjustments can be made until the door fits very well. Three pictures are included. Number 1 shows the block of wood in place. Number 2 shows the door frame with all parts removed and the red mark. Number 3 shows the final fit. Since I finished the door realignment I have gone out into the garage X# of time just to open and close the door. It is such a joy. It sounds like a 1932 Cadillac V16 limo back door.