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Old 08-27-2005, 10:15 PM   #15
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1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
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Floor picture

Picture of the floor and chassis
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Old 08-28-2005, 10:21 PM   #16
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To Bee

Thaught some might be interested in what I found under the floor.

At last thing will start going together!
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:13 PM   #17
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1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock , Georgia
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uninvited guests...

only 2 bee nests, huh? probably just because you have a bambi. i had 2 bee nests, a rat nest and 2 dead rats in MY belly! and when i picked mine up, the PO had already removed half the floor. ha! gee, i wonder where that musty smell was coming from?

what are you using for insulation? i'm replacing mine for sure, as it's a huge source of stinky odors.

welcome to the forums! i've found them INFINATELY useful in my restoration so far.

jordan
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Old 09-02-2005, 08:58 AM   #18
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1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
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insulation

Jordan, Bambi's do seem to be popular with many living things. I plan to insulate with regular fiber glass insulation. My guess is that it allowes the trailer to breath better. When I'm done I will seal ever little hole I can find. On my trailer rubber hole protectors were placed over every pipe etc. inlet. Did yours have the same? There were a few dents causing openings for the critters to enter. I plan to repair these areas. I would like to see pictures and info on any repairs you do on your trailer. Another view point is always good.
Thanks Don
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Old 09-02-2005, 09:38 AM   #19
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my trailer was butchered by the PO when i got it. there was literally NOTHING in the trailer but half a floor and half a bellypan. no fittings of any kind, though. the copper LP lines that went through the belly pan did have grommets on them, and that's what i'm planning on doing on ours.

DO NOT be tempted to run those lines through the belly pan as i was. UWE set me straight. if you develop a leak, your trailer could literally explode! seal well, though. mice can get through a pencil-sized hole.

you can read my saga so far here:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=17197

hoping to making some real progress on the skins this weekend. happy reading!

jordan
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Old 09-02-2005, 11:42 PM   #20
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Jordan, I have read through your string. Great information! I'm planning on using the old belly skins. We will use the trailer a lot and I figure they will just get dinged up right a way.
Don
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Old 09-03-2005, 06:35 AM   #21
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if mine had a complete belly, i would have considered saving them, too. i know the ones i have will eventually dent, but what are ya gonna do? it's a belly afterall.

are youplanning on replacing any skins? got my rivet gun ready for today's adventure! just waiting until a reasonable time to start hammering away. good thing i can't see my neighbors through the woods!

jordan
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:54 AM   #22
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drawer parts

I'm looking for drawer parts for my 63 Bambi. They around 7/16" long and 1/4" in diameter. They go into the drawer face. I would also be interested in the Knobs as well. Please see picture.
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Old 09-07-2005, 11:10 PM   #23
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Red face One Man process of removing the shell

I needed to remove the shell of my 1963 Bambi by myself. By creating a 2x4 frame work that was wired for a secure structure, I was able to lift the shell and slide the chasis out by myself. I fashioned my process similar to the technique used by house movers. A 2x4 lever with the aid of bricks was used. The process was slow but safe. If you would like to see pictures of the process with aditional information, go to my picture site. "One Man shell off"
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Old 09-08-2005, 12:12 AM   #24
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i did the same thing myself. put in the cross braces, then stacked 2 stacks of 2X4s on each side, lifting it one corner at a time. it's definitely the safest way. i had to lift mine a little higher, then built the saw horses, then lowered it onto them... did the opposite plan to get the shell back down. it took 2 to get it settled straight, though. it's such a tight fit, if you're off by a half inch here or there, the skin won't slide back around the outside. i'm reskinning, so i got it close enough for "gum-mit" work.

here's a pic of my sawhorses. the lower piece stiffened it from sway. the supports were just carraige bolts (2 of them per cross brace, 2 braces per sawhorse). it was probably overkill, but didn't sway at all. i wouldn't do diagonal braces, or it would have interfered with rolling the chassis in and out.

i rolled it out with no wheel wells, but rolled it in with them, so i ended up having to raise this entire deal up about 10 inches... that was a little scary.

post some pics! us peeps gotta peep. ha!

jordan
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Old 09-08-2005, 09:04 AM   #25
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Reassemble- a collection of many small things

Jordon, what tools are you using for riviting and where did you get them? I'm not there yet but hope to be soon. Today will be spent in sand plasting the frame. I plan to treat the frame with Por 15. Your process of lifting the shell looks great. One can never be to safe!! How much trouble have you had in lining up any of the old rivit holes? c channel, belly pan dubbled oner, shell. What size and type of rivits are you planning on using to reassemble the shell?

Don
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Old 09-09-2005, 09:19 AM   #26
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tools of the trade...

hey man,

i've learned a lot on my trailer... mostly a lot of "how NOT tos" ha! it seemed like it too me forever to get my shell back on. mostly because of the weather. i wish i had a barn to do all the work in.

on my frame, a friend of mine painted it for me with some sort of epoxy paint, after i blasted it, and had probably half the cross members replaced. he uses it to paint concrete trucks, so i think it should stand up just fine. the (obvious) important thing is to get ALL the rust out of there. be sure you get stainless elevator bolts when you do the floor, too. they were out when i got mine, so i ended up undercoating the crap out of each bolt once i got it on to help prevent the rust. i should have waited until the stainless ones were back in.

i replaced all my belly with new material, so ther ewas no way for me to find the original holes when i dropped the shell back on. secondly, i replaced all the C channel (except the curved pieces) with new. and finally, after reading through greg's skin replacement post, i decied to go full hog and replace all of the flat panels on my trailer, so there wouldn't be any holes to line up anyway on the bottom.

just gettimg ny trailer back square on the frame, thoguh took a day of wiggling, shoving, prying, etc. i ended up buckling a few pieces that got trapped between the C channel, rather than outside it. have some friends, a little beer, and a LOT of patience for that step, if you're not replacing the body panels. the good news is the bananna wrap covers any imperfections.

as for tools, i took greg's advice on everything. you'll need a 3X rivet gun (eBay, $50), a good selection of bucking bars, rivets in various sizes, a stemboat (or pancake) drill with #21 stubby bits (eBay for the drill, Yardstore for the bits), and several tubes of Vulkem (Airstream Dreams). The rivets i got at aircraft spruce, but there are cheaper sources out there. the pancake drill allows you to back drill through existing rivet holes in the ribs. if you haven't removed any of those rivets, or do not plan on replacing any of the skin panels, you probably don't need that tool (though it is cool looking!)

if you haven't already, read this link: http://www.airforums.com/forum...?threadid=9362

also, another fav thread of mine:
http://www.airforums.com/forum...t=FRAME+REPAIR

post a lot of pics as you move along. it's a great on-line journal, if nothing else!

jordan
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Old 09-09-2005, 11:32 PM   #27
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Paper? spacers

Jordon, Thanks for the info. When I took my Bambi apart I noticed that there was a paper like,or gasket, type material under all edges of the cabinets to floor, water tank, and under the c channels. Did you find any similar material while disassembeling your coach. If so, did you replace it with any particular material? Thanks for the links. I think you should be glad you didn't use stainless elevator bolts on your rig. My understanding is that stainless and aluminum do not mix. Electrolysis goes wild. When we had a boat in the ocean environment that was a definate no, no.

Don
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Old 09-10-2005, 08:33 AM   #28
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there was hardly anything left of my trailer when i started. nothing original to pattern anything by, unfortunately. so, i don't know about the gasket stuff.

i heard that too about steel and aluminum. i have a land rover, and they combat it by putting a small rubber seal between the hinges and the aluminum door panels. not on teh rear door, thoug. it's always a mess. what kind of screws were holding your bannana molding on? i was planning on using stainless there, with a plastic washer. i can get aluminum screws, but i don't know if they have the strength to tap into the aluminum channel i have.
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