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Old 03-07-2006, 06:57 PM   #211
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Don, like you and JP, I found many of the same leaks. What is the "black stuff" sprayed all over, is that some kind of sealant used in that era trailer? What are you using to seal the leaks? I'm using Vulkem for most, but did use one tube of sikaflex. In fact, that was what I was doing after work today, scraping away old Vukem and cleaning things up for the new sealant. THAT, is a pain in butt!

About the Dura-cool, are you gonna use over the entire inside walls, or are you using strips in certain places? It's looking real good, If you don't mind saying, is the combination of the two layers of insulation very expensive?

Jim
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Old 03-07-2006, 08:56 PM   #212
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The insulation is looking good! I was thinking of going a similar route with my trailer (if I can ever make some decisions and stick with them regarding holding tanks! ) once I start putting it all back together. I'll have to stay tuned and see how it all works out.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:36 AM   #213
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sandwich insulation

Jim & Susan, the black stuff is a sprayed on type of tar that was used to seal the trailer. I have had to use a heat gun and a dull chisel to get the stuff off. It appears that they must have had some problems controlling the stuff. In the back of the trailer it was hard and well stuck to the trailer. In the front it was also hard but areas just broke off like breaking glass. It also looks like it was hard to control. I have been sealing joints with valcum and Alcoa. I know its overkill. I'm in the process of figuring out the cost of the insulation process. As soon as I come up with an estimate, I'll make a post with details. It looks like it is going to be expensive. I figure it's a major item in Airstreams. Another hope of mine is that if I do get new leaks in the future they will will run down the outside reflectix to the bottom channel and stay out of the inside of the trailer. Time will only answer that wish! Dura-cool will be used on all surfaces of the shell.
JP, I'm resealing inside and outside the windows. I don't plan on removing them. I hope this is not a mistake. One thing I've noticed is by the front top of the window there are 3 to 4 layers of aluminum that come together. This can't be very good for leak prevention. Let me know what you find once you have removed the windows and inspected the area.
ankornuta, I'm also hoping for some sound reduction with this method, Down the road I'll post if it works.
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Old 03-08-2006, 08:49 PM   #214
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I imagine the sound reduction will be pretty substantial.

You know... it's interesting to hear about the leaks you're discovering. I think all of the water damage to my trailer was done via a broken window in the back which was apparently left unrepaired for some time (in the Pacific Northwest), a defrosting refrigerator that wasn't drained properly, and a place where someone ran off a curb and damaged the belly pan (water got up in it). Amazingly, I can't find any leaks around windows, seals, etc... the ironic thing is, here in Phoenix it hasn't rained for 140 days!
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Old 03-08-2006, 10:14 PM   #215
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Insulation cost

I bought more supplies today, so I can estimate the cost of the insulation method "sandwich insulation" Total cost when I've finished will be around $450.00. That's a lot.
ankornuta, In Yreka we are somewhere around twice our average rainfall for this year. It's suppose to snow down to 1000' tonight.
If water got up inside, how does the frame look?
Don
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Old 03-09-2006, 08:45 AM   #216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Jim & Susan, the black stuff is a sprayed on type of tar that was used to seal the trailer. I have had to use a heat gun and a dull chisel to get the stuff off. It appears that they must have had some problems controlling the stuff. In the back of the trailer it was hard and well stuck to the trailer. In the front it was also hard but areas just broke off like breaking glass. It also looks like it was hard to control. I have been sealing joints with valcum and Alcoa. I know its overkill.

JP, I'm resealing inside and outside the windows. I don't plan on removing them. I hope this is not a mistake. One thing I've noticed is by the front top of the window there are 3 to 4 layers of aluminum that come together. This can't be very good for leak prevention. Let me know what you find once you have removed the windows and inspected the area.
ankornuta, I'm also hoping for some sound reduction with this method, Down the road I'll post if it works.
Don
Don,

I used a product by Würth, called brushable seam sealer. It is formulated to adhere to and seal all types of metal. A commonly used product in automotive manufacturing.
I brushed a thin coat on all the interior seams, hoping that it will prevent freaky and hard to find leaks.
I also brushed a generous amount around all the interior window frames, where they meet the outer skin.
Additionally, I plan on using gutter seal or Par-bond to spot seal the windows from the outside oncemy skin is cleaned up after polishing.
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Old 03-09-2006, 08:55 AM   #217
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Just looked at Wurth's web site. Looks like they have many usable products, Thanks Don
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Old 03-11-2006, 09:10 AM   #218
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Hard to find leaks

In working on the inside of the outer shell I found many leaks where seams in the shell were made up of several layers of Aluminum sheets. It appears that the type of spray on "Black" sealing material that was used on the 63 Bambi hardened and cracked over time. The normal movement in the shell during towing probably contributed to this. Three pictures are included here to show leak areas. If you are resealing your trailer, my suggestion is that you pay special attention to these areas.
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Old 03-12-2006, 02:14 AM   #219
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Hi Don, what an experience with your door! Good timing on repairing the lower hinge. Hate to see what could have been. Amazing that you were able to recover your screen. It musta had seperation anxiety! I noticed on my bambi that the door seemed to be a pretty sloppy fit. There is a 3/4" gap on the hinge side between the door and the body. There is a 1/2" gap on the latch side. I didnt know if the door hinges were tweeked, or if they were that way from the factory. Im including a couple of pics I took this afternoon. What do you think?
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Old 03-12-2006, 11:43 AM   #220
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Hinges and Doors

cnssanders, caveat: doors and hinges can drive you crazy. It can be one of the most challenging jobs in body work. Also I am not an expert, The motto on my retirement business card is "Dismantle expert-Restoration Apprentice". So with that in mind, here goes. Your Bambi is an Ohio Airstream and mine is a California Bambi. At a recent Rally I was able to inspect and compare my Bambi to an Ohio Bambi, There many differences. First of all on the subject at hand, my door is a suicide door. The chance of you having a door disaster as bad as mine is less likely. I'm sure the basic construction of how your door is fastened to the trailer is close to the same. Two many different metals used in the same place. Because of this I would strongly recommend that you replace all rivets on the door hinge. Now to your door alignment. The type of hinges we have on our Bambies have a lot to do with alignment. First I will reuse your pictures and make comments on the pictures about the things I see. The shine on your trailer is great, but It makes it a little difficult to see detail. I don't think you have shingles on your trailer. If you relook at my posts 3 207 and 208 you will see how both parts of my hinge are on the outside of the skins. Also the steel plate inside the trailer that gives the door attachment strength to the body.
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:21 PM   #221
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NorCal, thanks for the quick reply. I had never noticed the wrinkle in the door before. I will have to look close at that. I don't know if it is a bad photo making it stand out or if I had blinders on. I have it parked next to a white sob rv, making the glare. There seems to be an art to photographing these shiny AS. Probably some good filters out there that would help, 0h and pulling it into the shade away from white backgrounds. I like your suggestion about replacing the rivets. I need to invest in the Olympic riveting system and give those hinges a once over. I will probably need to increase the bend radius closer to 90 deg. like you mentioned. Also, I wonder why they sandwiched the hinges in the skin like that. I think the hinge on the outside is a good idea. The door is solid to the body, so I dont think the steel behind the hinges on the body will be an issue, but I did notice that the rivets on the top hinge is pulling away from the body about 1/8". Definately needs some attention there. However, one thing that I am learning on this forum is to never assume that there is nothing wrong untill you get into it. This Bambi has sat in my grandparents driveway since April of '76, so I am sure that there will be many surprises as I get into it. Thats ok, I like surprises. Finally, what do you use to document on the pictures like that? I really like the results. Excelent communication tool! Thanks, Chris
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:43 PM   #222
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More on door hinge alignment

cnssanders, Here are some more graphic displays to help illustrate the things that need to be considered when aligning doors and hinges. The next post will discuss programs used for these images.
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Old 03-12-2006, 12:46 PM   #223
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more door

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Old 03-12-2006, 12:55 PM   #224
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Photo labels and graphic images

cnssanders, There is a list of the programs I use to edit the pictures. All the editing is done off line and then the photos are up loaded. To get the arrows and text on the pictures I first use Adobe Image Ready which allows me to add text and graphic images to .JPG or other photo formats. Then the photo is edited in Abode Photo Shop to change the image to a .JPG format. I use JPG format because it allows for grater variation in shapes and colors and is a good compression format. The 3D graphic images are done in Alias Wavefront Maya. This program is use in the film and gaming industry to create the images like you saw in Toy story.
Don
You may know If you double click on the images in the posting you will get a much larger image to view.
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