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Old 03-31-2006, 11:29 AM   #241
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Don.

I started reading this thread from the very beginning and have to say that you are now part of a growing list of heros on this forum. I'm exhausted just reading this stuff!!! When do you sleep!!!

It's truely an amazing undertaking. I took the lazy way out and bought a new AS, but I really asppreciate the blood sweat and tears that these projects require.

I can't wait to see the end result. I like the conduit "chase" idea for wires and such. That would make repair/replace much more simple.

Keep up the fantastic work, and the equally fantastic job of documenting this arduous restoration.

And to everyone else, good luck on your renovations too.

Cheers.

Jonathan
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:23 PM   #242
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Originally Posted by markdoane
Another alternative is conduit. It's easy to change things later.

I used smurf tube and plastic boxes.
Your Conduit is very, very impressive. I have seen many amazing and beautiful mods that various members have use in their restorations. In the past an attempt at perfection has kept me from finishing many projects. This time I'm attempting to do a good job and finish. I also have a 1933 Chevy, a 48 Cadillac, and a 67 triumph Spitfire waiting in the wings. At 65 I have to keep time in mind. If I was 20 years younger, I would be adapting your conduit approach right now. Its great!!!
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:25 PM   #243
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crazylev, thanks for the positive input. It helps more than you know.
Don
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:51 PM   #244
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Let's get finished!

Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Your Conduit is very, very impressive. I have seen many amazing and beautiful mods that various members have use in their restorations. In the past an attempt at perfection has kept me from finishing many projects. This time I'm attempting to do a good job and finish. I also have a 1933 Chevy, a 48 Cadillac, and a 67 triumph Spitfire waiting in the wings. At 65 I have to keep time in mind. If I was 20 years younger, I would be adapting your conduit approach right now. Its great!!!
Well, this is the "other half" and I am so excited! Don has now put it in words! "Finish!!!!" Maybe I can hold him to it! He is not without projects, and I must say he is a good guy to take on the one I bought and leave the others for now. Someday he will also get the 48 done. That is "mine" too. It has been 30 years in the restoration process. The Bambi is going much quicker. Well, time to prod him along . Thanks everyone for giving him more encouragement!
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:42 AM   #245
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Originally Posted by markdoane
Another alternative is conduit. It's easy to change things later.

I used smurf tube and plastic boxes.
The conduit looks very nice! But, with such limited space between the interior and exterior skins, will that make it difficult to insulate?
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Old 04-01-2006, 09:23 AM   #246
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Originally Posted by ankornuta
The conduit looks very nice! But, with such limited space between the interior and exterior skins, will that make it difficult to insulate?
Yes. I don't think the insulation is any less effective, but it requires more effort to split the batts and work them around the conduit.

I considered using spray insulation, but it was messy.

In several places, it was more convenient to use bubblefoil between the conduit and the outside skin, then finish with batts between the conduits and the inside.
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Old 04-04-2006, 09:23 PM   #247
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Update

I now have all the inner skins installed except for the two center roof sections. I found a new leak area in the roof area that was not visible until I removed the bracing. The rivets were loose and I decided to remove them and replace the rivets. This is when I found the leak areas. See attached photos. I thought I'd include a couple of photos of progress. One shows inner skins installed the other shows some of the new wiring. Once all the skins have been replaced, I plan on wet sanding the zolatone and repainting with the original zolatone color. I still haven't decided which type of finish flooring to use. How about some of you giving me a sales pitch on what you used for you final flooring and why. Uwe had mentioned a floating cork flooring. My original cabinets etc were attached to the floor and the walls. I don't know if a floating floor will create a problem. Well gentlemen I am open for your sale pitch.
Don
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:08 AM   #248
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Looking really nice, Don. As far as the flooring question goes....

Susan is pretty much insisting on vinyl flooring for everthing except the bedroom area. From a practicle point of view, that's the way for us to go. We will normally have a least a couple of kids and a dog with us, once we start using the trailer. Too much stuff will get tracked in to try and keep carpet or one of the more expensive floor materials clean. The bedroom area will either be the same vinyl with a throw rug or two, or regular carpet.

Further, I'm only planning on putting any type of floor covering down on the parts of the floor that actually are walked on, if that makes sense. In other words, the furniture/cabinets/etc go in first, the flooring will be the last thing to put in. I read in another thread that the best way to do this is to put a sheet material down first (like Luan or some such) then glue the vinyl to the sheet material. That way the flooring can be changed relatively easily in the future if need be and you don't have to worry about sub-floor flexing and seams, etc.

Just my 2 cents.

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Old 04-05-2006, 11:11 AM   #249
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I'm sure everyone already knows this, but the original flooring was put on "under" the body... in other words, the floor was laid with the armstrong tiles and then the c-channel was attached and the body built up. That's the way I plan to do it... seems like it helps with the sealing and all that. Is there a good reason to not do it that way?
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:24 AM   #250
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Ank, are you referring to the plywood, or the flooring material that is placed on top of the plywood (carpet, vinyl, etc)?
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:33 AM   #251
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Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Ank, are you referring to the plywood, or the flooring material that is placed on top of the plywood (carpet, vinyl, etc)?
I was referring to both, actually In my trailer, as I pulled up the c-channel that the body was attached to, I could see that the old asbestos floor tiles extended underneath it, which showed me that the tile was placed on top of the floor (the plywood) before the body was placed on the trailer.

Maybe they did it this way for cost reasons... I imagine it's much easier to lay and cut tile without the body on, especially in an assembly-line environment. I'm not sure if there were any technical/structural reasons to do it this way, though...

My plan is to lay marmoleum (it's in a sheet) right over the plywood before attaching the c-channel and, subsequently, the body. I'll be doing this in the next couple of weeks, with any luck!
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:57 AM   #252
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Don.

I agree with Ankornuta. As long as everything is out of the AS, I'd some how first seal the crap out of the plywood floor, especially around the edges, then lay some cheap flooring material entire floor surface. After the interior goes back in put down the top-flooring of your choice, just up to cabinets, walls and so on and finish off with some quarter round, or something nicely milled. Allow for expansion (1/4" all around), but you probably know that.

Given the amount of time and energy with this project, I might be inclined to use some exotic species of wood, completely sealed, etc., and just don't let anyone in with shoes!!!

However, if you have pets, kids, or other folks planing a visit, maybe a more practicle way is linolium. I bet some people here have real good resources for fine flooring.

Not that you aren't already, but go crazy with the interior. I can't wait to hear what you have planned for cabinetry.

Jonathan
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:10 PM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Maybe they did it this way for cost reasons... I imagine it's much easier to lay and cut tile without the body on, especially in an assembly-line environment. I'm not sure if there were any technical/structural reasons to do it this way, though...

My plan is to lay marmoleum (it's in a sheet) right over the plywood before attaching the c-channel and, subsequently, the body. I'll be doing this in the next couple of weeks, with any luck!
I remember reading somewhere here on the forum that the factory does/has in the past installed the flooring in this manner. I'll bet you're right on the money that it is for ease of installation and cost savings. I can't imagine that there is anything structural about it, other than a layer of material to keep water out of the plywood (minimal at best, I know). Other memebers have done the same thing. I think 59Toaster did his that way. You might check his threads.

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Old 04-05-2006, 03:44 PM   #254
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I'm going to do mine that way for ease of installation... just roll the marmoleum out over the plywood... snip around the edges... done!

But I've been wondering... if I treat my wood with a waterproofing material, anything from varethane to POR-15, do you think that will hinder the ability of the floor adhesive to hold the marmoleum down?
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Old 04-05-2006, 10:17 PM   #255
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I was referring to both, actually In my trailer, as I pulled up the c-channel that the body was attached to, I could see that the old asbestos floor tiles extended underneath it, which showed me that the tile was placed on top of the floor (the plywood) before the body was placed on the trailer.

Maybe they did it this way for cost reasons... I imagine it's much easier to lay and cut tile without the body on, especially in an assembly-line environment. I'm not sure if there were any technical/structural reasons to do it this way, though...
Thought I'd chime in here. My old tiles were put down after the shell was put on. They only put enough down to extend under the cabinets, not to the inside edge of the shell. They didn't even go all the way to the back just enough to go under the shower. The back 1/4 was bare wood as well as a small section in the front under the water tank.

Don, I bought some sheet vinyl from Lowe's. I ran it right up to the edge inside and then sealed it. I have had some spills in there and two leaks. I was happy I went the way I did. I put down a small area rug in the center. It gets dirty I just shake it out and put it back down and wash it if it needs it. I did glue my vinyl down. After 6,000 miles, no cracks or lifting of any kind. I am happy with my choice. Easy to care for. Easy to put in.

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Old 04-06-2006, 11:24 AM   #256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
I'm going to do mine that way for ease of installation... just roll the marmoleum out over the plywood... snip around the edges... done!

But I've been wondering... if I treat my wood with a waterproofing material, anything from varethane to POR-15, do you think that will hinder the ability of the floor adhesive to hold the marmoleum down?
I have the same question. Maybe someone will give us an answer.
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:26 AM   #257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C Johnson
Thought I'd chime in here. My old tiles were put down after the shell was put on. They only put enough down to extend under the cabinets, not to the inside edge of the shell. They didn't even go all the way to the back just enough to go under the shower. The back 1/4 was bare wood as well as a small section in the front under the water tank.

Don, I bought some sheet vinyl from Lowe's. I ran it right up to the edge inside and then sealed it. I have had some spills in there and two leaks. I was happy I went the way I did. I put down a small area rug in the center. It gets dirty I just shake it out and put it back down and wash it if it needs it. I did glue my vinyl down. After 6,000 miles, no cracks or lifting of any kind. I am happy with my choice. Easy to care for. Easy to put in.

Chris
Chris, what a perfect sales pich. I am definately leaning in your direction.
Thanks Don
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:28 AM   #258
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Anyone know a good place to buy Zolatone?
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:35 AM   #259
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Hey Don.

It would be real convenient to set the floor in such a way as to be replaceable after a certain amount of time, since that is likely to be the surface that takes the most beating. Given that, if the floor is linolium of some sort and not to heavily stuck down, you could use that as the template to easily cut another floor of your choice.

What ever you do I'm sure it will be amazing.

http://www.zolatone.com/search/usa/index.jsp

Jonathan
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Old 04-06-2006, 11:43 AM   #260
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Hey Don.

It would be real convenient to set the floor in such a way as to be replaceable after a certain amount of time, since that is likely to be the surface that takes the most beating. Given that, if the floor is linolium of some sort and not to heavily stuck down, you could use that as the template to easily cut another floor of your choice.

What ever you do I'm sure it will be amazing.

http://www.zolatone.com/search/usa/index.jsp

Jonathan
Good point, Thanks
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