Floor Replacement 1973 Argosy 20' by New Buyer

[jbsails]

I purchased this 1973 Argosy 20' two weeks ago as described in the Argosy Trailer section of the Forum.

I loved it because it is straight, with an interior that was remarkably all there...the only thing really missing was the cushions. All the cabinets, opening mechanisms for windows, drawers, exterior hatches, door lock mechanism were complete.

However...it was laden with dirt and mouse droppings from sitting in a field here in San Diego for years and that was disgusting. After cleaning it up over last weekend, some rot was detected under the usual area under the fill for fresh water and beneath the water pump.

Because of the extent of the mouse intrusion, and largely because of the research I was doing on this forum (you guys are AWESOME)...the project now took a more extensive turn than originally conceived and I decided to take a whack at floor replacement! Now, I am new to this and am planning on doing a bit of research along the way...and as such, I am going to try to contribute to this group by recording things for those that are like me....somewhat clueless but willing

So here goes...

This is the start which began yesterday...

[3Ms75Argosy]

Wow, it'll smell better after all the fiberglass is gone.. lots of nice homes in there...

Interesting about the frame.. it's definately different than the 60's trailers (and what I believed was below my floor of my Argosy). It looks like there's wood sleepers above the frame outriggers there in the center.. with the center supports about 1/2" below the central frame rails?

Just FYI, you'll need to drill out the rivets for the lower wall panels to put the new floor in. It needs to slip under the shell rails (which are covered by the lower panels).. and then screw the shell rail to the wood.
How much of the floor are you going to do?
Marc

[jbsails]

I was wondering if I was going to get by with just slipping the new flooring into the C chanel. So are you saying that the process is to remove the side wall paneling to access the shell rails? For some reason I thought I read on the forum that it was a bit different on the 70's models???
Can anyone advise on that?

Yes, there are wood sleepers above the outriggers and that was a surprise to me, too.

Regarding "how far I am going"...well, I seem to be suffering from the "while I'm at it" disease! I haven't yet made a final decision, but just this morning decided to take out the kitchen section, and the section under the port side settee and water heater. There was a bit more rot behind the refrigerator.

Well, my break is over and I need to get back out there.

Thanks all.

[3Ms75Argosy]

Well... having NOT put together a 70's unit... I'm pretty sure the shell needs attachment to the floor... otherwise it'd just fly away. Did you old floor just pull out? If so, take a flashlight and look in that space... I think you'll see old screws t hat just pulled out from the rotted wood... that's why it came out so easily.

Marc

[jbsails]

Thanks for hitting me back, Marc.

I am still not certain if the floor re-install requires any peeloff off the interior wall paneling. The old flooring just slid out of what appears to be a "C" channel and it seems as though the new flooring will simply slide in for the most part, with the exception of a few areas where it was attached to some sheeting like at the base of the water heater access panel.

The project continued today and I have removed the entire galley.

Now...the decision comes to either keep or remove the head. There is no apparent rotting but I cannot make the determination without removal of the toilet, etc...so I am leaning toward just going for it...gung ho!

[Gkiesel]

Having replaced a portion of the floor in our Argosy, i can tell you that removal of the lower wall sections is required to refit the floor as originaly designed. the flooring sections are slid into the c channel along the sides and under the c channel around the front. The original construction used a combination of thru bolts at the end of the outriggers, some thru bolts around the curved sections front and rear, and what look like common sheet metal screws through the rest. Once you remove the floor, the only thing holding the shell to the frame is the mounting plates front and rear. You need to secure the floor to the c channel of the shell to provide rigidity. Hence the monocoe design. The floor is just pulling out because the old screws and bolts are rusted gone. Good luck, George