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Old 08-29-2014, 07:16 AM   #29
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It is Trempro-635 that I used to seal the seams.

Perry

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What is painted grey on the boards?
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Old 08-29-2014, 07:19 AM   #30
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I would use 2 layers of 1/2" RMAX cut into strips to fit the end caps and then maybe some radiation barrier on top of that. You seal all seams with the aluminized duct tape.

Perry
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Old 09-06-2014, 06:31 PM   #31
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Floor is in. Ugh! Not again. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-12-2014, 10:14 PM   #32
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Man that looks good! Hope you sealed the edges too.
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Old 09-15-2014, 08:47 AM   #33
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Bummed that after all this work when i go to insert the battery boxes i find the front end has been kicked out about 3/8" between the battery boxes. It must have happened when i put in the center floor piece. i never really noticed it until now. I'm not sure if i have compromised the integrity of the shell or not. It also seems in that process i loosened the buck rivets that are between the battery boxes connecting the front panel to the uprights. i may have not done it because there had been alot of water damage in this area. I just noticed it when i water deluged the front end to see if there were any leaks. Now those leaks i temporarily put parbond around the rivets on the exterior to keep them from leaking. I do have one leak above the front window i cannot tell where it is coming from. Its coming in between the top window frame and the shell. I had sealed all that area and i even pulled the rock guard off to seal off this area. i will take pictures later of the outside and inside where the leak is. The good part, i have not found any other leaks and i was putting full open hose on the whole area as if it was a true deluge. At this point i just need encouragement.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:35 AM   #34
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I the older trailers, there is a steel plate between those boxes and that is attached to the frame. I think this is necessary to prevent front end separation which yours may have been in the beginnings of. I know you don't want to hear this, but I would add some structure there and attach it to the frame. You may have to remove the floor or the belly skin or both to do this. The loose buck rivets are probably from too much stress since there not front hold down plate. That is what my engineer brain is telling me. The 34 ft limited models with the horizontal propane tank bay have even more front end separation problems.

Perry
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Old 09-15-2014, 02:27 PM   #35
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Perry, Im not following. When I slid the middle piece in I had to remove all the bolts that held the front end to the frame I think thats why it happened. I had larger 3/8 bolts that i replaced that were installed that fit in the channel 1/4in thick 1x3 that was there. NO doubt when the bolts werent there the aluminum channel lifted off the actual frame and there was definitely stress there because the rusted bolts as i was removing them popped off as if they were under a force.

Here is where the bolts were with a red circle left and white circle red.
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Old 09-15-2014, 02:53 PM   #36
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Bolt locations as of now

a better picture of showing the two large bolts on either end and 6 1/4 self tapping in between.

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Old 09-15-2014, 04:24 PM   #37
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Just move things to the proper location and problem solved. I would still put a stiffener between the battery boxes on top of the C-channel. I did this on my repair in the back using some 1x1 angle laid in the C-channel and put my bolts through that.

Perry
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