Floor Repair

[JK3500]

Finally got around to fixing the damaged floor in our 22' International. Cut out the damaged section and replaced with 5/8" plywood glued and screwed to the frame rails. Added some insulation as what was there was definitely lacking.

After much thought we decided on finished 3/8" plywood as the final floor covering, glued and screwed to the OSB subfloor. We finished the plywood with stain and 2 coats of polyurethane.

Overall we are very pleased with the results. We also modified the very uncomfortable dinette setup to increase floor space and have something more comfortable to sit in. Will post pics of that in another thread. jk

[SilverHoot]

Interesting, I had wondered about just finishing the plywood but had not seen it done. Looks nice. Look forward to your other pics.

[purman]

Looks great,,, Good job...

[Ganglin]

Your floor looks nice - should be easy to maintain. But good grief - a floor repair in an 05..?

[ArtStream]

JK, NICE Job!

Look forward to the dinette mod pic's

[Gypsy Jo]

Floor looks great .That does seem strange for a trailer thats not very old.

[JK3500]

Thanks for the replies folks. BTW, I apologize, should have put more information in the original post. The floor damage was our fault. It occurred when we overfilled our fresh water tank preparing for our very first camping trip with the trailer two years ago. You can read about the saga here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...ank-33300.html

The frame, however is another story and my real disappointment with Airstream. That saga begins here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-it-33396.html. We've had the frame repaired twice now by Airstream and so far it is holding up. Hopefully it continues...

[BDandTTs]

You've really stripped it out, JK. It's looking great and I'm anxious to see the remaining mods. The converter relocation is slick and you've really maximized open space.

It's interesting to see the insulation under the floor. Was the photo taken before or after you added some? Do you think there is any insulation around the tanks?

[JK3500]

Originally Posted by BDandTTs

You've really stripped it out, JK. It's looking great and I'm anxious to see the remaining mods. The converter relocation is slick and you've really maximized open space.

It's interesting to see the insulation under the floor. Was the photo taken before or after you added some? Do you think there is any insulation around the tanks?

The insulation is what was there. I added about a bat's worth to fill the space. There was no insulation around the fresh water tank. In hindsight, it probably would have been a good idea to wrap some of that silver bubblewrap stuff around it but I did not. I also added insulation (like you did) to what was under the wheel well.

Will post the pics of the dinette this weekend.

[JK3500]

You can see them here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f293...tml#post732259

[TankerIP]

Very Nice Job. I'm curious, your final 3/8" plywood covering -- does it extend underneath the cabinets, or just up to them? I'm thinking about floor coverings and repairs and wonder how much trouble it is to take out the cabinets. There have many posts showing extensive floor repairs, but not a lot of information about how those cabinets are attached to the trailer. Do you think it's very hard?

[JK3500]

Originally Posted by TankerIP

Very Nice Job. I'm curious, your final 3/8" plywood covering -- does it extend underneath the cabinets, or just up to them? I'm thinking about floor coverings and repairs and wonder how much trouble it is to take out the cabinets. There have many posts showing extensive floor repairs, but not a lot of information about how those cabinets are attached to the trailer. Do you think it's very hard?

We removed the bed, nightstand, converter and dinette area (wasn't much left of the dinette after the modification). That was all pretty easy.

Debated removing the rest of the kitchen cabinets, wardrobe and desk but decided it was too much unnecessary work (all the plumbing is behind there) and would be difficult to get everything to fit back together properly after raising the floor by 3/8". Wasn't hard to cut the plywood to fit - used the vinyl flooring we cut out as a template for much of it.

We used caulk to fill the gaps between the plywood sheets and along the edges. We may trim it out later but for now it looks pretty good.

I will note that plywood is rather soft as a floor covering and will dent easily if not careful. For us that's not really an issue. Time will tell how it wears in the long term. jk

[bolerama]

Hi JK3500,
The plywood looks great. I think it really suits the CCD. It really adds to the loft/industrial feel of the unit. Now I have to read your thread about overfilling the tank. We do that regularly because our sensor (even after being calibrated twice) always says the tank isn't full. Hmmm....

Lisa

[frankfarmer]

I've got a big job to do.

1992 34 ft. Limited. Toilet area is gone/rotten. I've got to cut out & replace all, 3 ft by 2 ft. section that goes under rear bulkhead, install new toilet.

Questions if you can help. What are the frame support distances apart??? Presume them are metal? Presume frame distances are all the same on all models?

Thanks for any advise from any member.

[JK3500]

Originally Posted by frankfarmer

I've got a big job to do.

1992 34 ft. Limited. Toilet area is gone/rotten. I've got to cut out & replace all, 3 ft by 2 ft. section that goes under rear bulkhead, install new toilet.

Questions if you can help. What are the frame support distances apart??? Presume them are metal? Presume frame distances are all the same on all models?

Thanks for any advise from any member.

Mine were about 24" apart. I think they vary from front to back. Mine also had a center brace between two cross braces. You can tell where the frame rails are by removing the floor covering and looking for the screws. holding the floor to the frame. Yes, they are metal.