Floor Questions

[ranns ammee]

I want to start off by stating that this is one incredible site. Information overload, to say the least. I'm a new AS owner for all of about 8 weeks now. Been a fun 8 weeks. lol. I got a rare second chance at a 66 Overlander. 5 years ago I had the opportunity to buy it and didn't make it happen. Since then have always said it was the best deal I never took. Fast forward 5 years and there it was, "for sale" , the same one only from a different owner. The deal was done and I was draggin her home. Since then I have been inspecting, and cleaning. That and getting overloaded with info on this site. I have removed the bed and table in the front, removed the tile through out. With the exception of the last 12 inches of decking (under the toilet all the way across ) some minor wiring problems the AS is in fantastic shape and amazingly complete. The first of what will be many questions, what is the best way to attack the floor? I found a thread here that showed an owner was able to slide the last section out the side. I cant seem to find that thread again to save my life. Does the entire tub and sink have to come out, or can it be raised up and work under it? I will post pic's as soon as I figure out how to.

[wasagachris]

Ranns ammee Welcome to the forums. Unfortunately you will have to gut the bathroom. The shell is bolted down through the floor into the frame inside the walls. You need to remove all the lower interior walls to get at these bolts. This must be done in order to resecure the shell to the frame after replacing the floor. You will also have to open up the belly to get at that bottom of the bolts on the underside of the frame. Sorry this is probably not what you wanted to hear but this shell to frame connection is very important to the structural integrity of the trailer.
Good luck you've got your work cut out for you.

[Aage]

Howdy and welcome to airforums.com, ranns!

Sorry to say that Chris is right, and as he is one of the many experts on here that really know their stuff, you won't regret taking his advice.

If you had x-ray vision and could look all around your trailer, I would bet that if the rear has rotted, there are very likely lots more places where water has gotten in. You waited long enough to get the trailer, why not go all the way and do one of the most important jobs to a vintage trailer we can do: ensure that it will go another 44 years by repairing a very important structural item: the floor.

Unless you are lucky enough to be able to store it indoors or covered, the very first thing to do is to find a eliminate leaks. They are what caused the bad floor in the first place, and can cause other problems if left alone.

So when will you post some photos of your new baby? We love photos, both inside and outside ones!

cheers,

Aage

[ranns ammee]

Where do you go to learn how to post pictures, I am computer illiterate.

[wasagachris]

ranns ammee here is a link to the forum how to's
Forum How-To's & Support - Airstream Forums

[Minno]

Ranns ammee:

Look here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f138...ics-44928.html

Chris

[Minno]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

ranns ammee here is a link to the forum how to's
Forum How-To's & Support - Airstream Forums

WC - you beat me to it! I must have been looking it up while you posted.

MC

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by Minno

WC - you beat me to it! I must have been looking it up while you posted.

MC

not bad EH!(cdn thing) considering I'm on dial up here. Did you get dumperd on the other day. We dodged the bullet only 1.5 ft of snow here.

[Minno]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

not bad EH!(cdn thing) considering I'm on dial up here. Did you get dumperd on the other day. We dodged the bullet only 1.5 ft of snow here.

Nope - no new snow here. Been a tad chilly though. Below zero F at night, and single digit highs. Almost need to put on a light jacket to go out and get the mail...

[Oly10]

I just got through with that job last fall, and not only is the floor fastened to the frame it is also glued and nailed to a gusset that is glued and nailed to the piece of floor in front of it. The C channel is not only bolted to the floor it is also screwed to it and after this many years the screws are either rusted off or they will not come loose at all. But once you get all the fasteners out you should only have to lift the shell about 1/4" to get the plywood out of the back. If the galvanized pan that the black tank sits in is original you will probably need to replace that as well. Good Luck

[Lance M]

Chris,
Minno is very accustomed to 'eh. He is from S Canada you know.
I hear that very often when I'm in MN. Along with Uffda and ja!

[ND10CentCan]

Just got to add any comments that include ja or you betcha or uffda....are a little too close for comfort.....but still fun!

[wasagachris]

Originally Posted by ND10CentCan

Just got to add any comments that include ja or you betcha or uffda....are a little too close for comfort.....but still fun!

yeah we've all seen Fargo

[ranns ammee]

Thanks for the response and thanks for welcoming me into the fold. I had a feeling that Chris would say what he did. My question is, when you said "remove interior walls" was that all the wall in the trailer? or can I stop at the b-room and the wall that hold the b-room door? Mine has the dbl bed on the street side and a wardrobe on the curb side, can i stop the dissemble there? I restore old cars and build street cars for a living and am used to challenges. Just want to do it right the first time. Will be removing the belly pan as soon as weather permits. Snow sucks!! As you suggested I went looking for anymore rot and leaks. 2 windows and the water filler neck need attention. Previous owner has resealed all the vents in the top, so they seem good. The water neck caused rot that after cleaned back to good wood is a 2 inch by 4 inch hole. What is the most logical fix?? On an old car, ya dont relace the whole quarter panel for a dent that is so small in a non descritp places, ya fix the damage and move on. Does the same logic apply here as well. Understandabley the problem at the rear is a repacement issue. What is the best approach to the fresh water pump? Its been replaced at some point, who knows when, and the wires are gone. Take it to a electric motor shop or start new?? As for the copper lines, they are in good shape, no leaks, I dont plan on drinking any water from the sys, but for dishes, cleaning, toilet etc, So do I leave them or change to Pex? Will build another water tank out of aluminum. Can anyone tell me what kind of wood is in my trailer? It's an International...And the best way to bring it back to life, it dosen't need much, just the right stuff the first time.. By the way, what is the deal on my awning? I havent seen one like it. Are they junk and just get a zip dee?Here are some pictures of my AS, Ain't she cool!!!

[wasagachris]

Ranns Ammee I would think you only need to remove the lower interior panels in the bathroom area. It will depend exactly where the floor seam is between the last piece and the next. If it is inside the bathroom area the you should be fine just removing the bathroom panels.
The rot around the wter fill neck can be patched easily.
Check the floor below all the windows and around the door right at the point where the shell meets the floor. If the windows are leaking it will rot the floor right there.
I don't recognize that awning. Does it still work? Zip Dee is one way to go and Carefree from Dometic still make awnings for airstreams and are a lot less money than Zip Dees.

[ranns ammee]

The awning is so simple that all it needs is new canvase, blast and paint or powder coat. The wrachet works but needs some lovin. It even has some little anchors at the bottom of the AS. But is it worht it? I will take many pics on the floor project for advice, Here are a few more pics of the awning