Floor Plywood Question!

[csmauley]

Hey all,

Just getting ready to put in my new floor and have a question for my
73 Ambassador...

Do the sheets of ply need to be cut, or is the width of the trailer 96"? I've been searching for a while now and can't find anything.

Thanks!

[Melody Ranch]

They need to be cut....to about 84 inches. Measure an remeasure, then cut. The 4 ft widths work well and then you have to make a pattern for the rounded ends...front and rear.

[csmauley]

Outrigger to outrigger is 91". Cutting at 84" doesn't seem right...

[BradS]

84" is the width of the floor for some years. As time passed trailers got wider. Make sure to cut your floor the correct width for your trailer. My 57 over lander is 84" wide

[CaddyGrn]

When my husband installed the new plywood floor on the previous Flying Cloud he partially restored, once the plywood was in, he put some sort of epoxy or wood hardener around the edges so if for some reason a water leak would come from the outside it wouldn't seep through and damage the flooring.

[HiJoeSilver]

My '79 was 92" across. You Need to measure the old wood, hopefully you still have some to measure. If not 92" is probably a good start.
Do you have c channel along the sides that encloses the plywood edges?
You can paint the top of the floor with deck and porch paint. Prime first. It'll help protect it. Keep the underside un painted so if the wood does get wet it has a path to dry.
I wrapped the front and rear from where the curve starts on one side to the other in aluminum tape. Several layers thick and in about 1.5" from the edge. Protects from water.
Drain holes in the c channel. Drill small 1/8" ish holes around the perimeter on the outside lower corner, that way any water that gets in the channel can drain to the belly between the outer skin and belly wrap.

[perryg114]

It needs to go in under the walls and be attached to the C-channel at the bottom of the walls. There are also structural attached points at the front and back that need to be repaired.

Perry

[csmauley]

Thank you all for the help!

[Aerowood]

Measure from the outside to outside of the "C" channel, should be in the 92 range for your year, use the cut off portion for new splice plates.

[AlbertaBound]

take a few measurements. Mine was average 92. some places 89, some 93.5, etc

[Slats]

Originally Posted by Melody Ranch

They need to be cut....to about 84 inches. Measure an remeasure, then cut. The 4 ft widths work well and then you have to make a pattern for the rounded ends...front and rear.

My old front end piece is in good enough shape to use for a pattern; the rear piece, not so good. Can I use the front as a pattern for the rear? Same shape, no?

[HiJoeSilver]

Originally Posted by Slats

My old front end piece is in good enough shape to use for a pattern; the rear piece, not so good. Can I use the front as a pattern for the rear? Same shape, no?

No, it's a different shape.

[Slats]

How so?

[HiJoeSilver]

The rear curve is longer and more gradual. Not as sharp in the corners and continues forward farther than the front goes back.

[Katzmeow]

Hi does the plywood have to be in one 4'x92" piece with shell on partial replacement that large of a piece is difficult to maneuver in place.

[MarkR]

Originally Posted by Betty1971

Hi does the plywood have to be in one 4'x92" piece with shell on partial replacement that large of a piece is difficult to maneuver in place.

It depends. If you're replacing the last 2 or 3 sheets of plywood you can usually pry/separate (gravity might even take care of it) the frame from the body enough to slide the panels in 1 at a time. If you're replacing a single sheet in the middle of the trailer you can "split" the plywood so you have (2) 46" x 48" pieces and install a "cleat" down the bottom middle to "sew" the sheet back together. The "cleat" would be a something like 6" wide and I'd glue and screw it (generously) the length of the seam - there'll be an "interruption" in the cleat at the "intermediate" cross member.

Good Luck

[Katzmeow]

Hi thanks for reply...I don't want to take shell off I have removed bolts in c channel so plywood should fit nicely the pieces i'm replacing were plywood that was cut in sections as long as they are bolted and secured do you think that is a way to go I can't handle hugh pieces of plywood

[MarkR]

. . . that was the version where you don't have to remove the shell HOWEVER, the Belly Pan would have to be detached to do what I described above . . . and it sounds your skin-to-channel-to-belly pan is all still attached - photos would be helpful BUT basically if there isn't a Cross Member below any of your proposed joints you need to install a substantial "cleat" below the joint.

[Katzmeow]

Another big problem is removing the old rusted bolts I've cut away where I could can you recommend a tool that will cut away the ones in c channel that won't unscrew and are still holding plywood??? nitemare

[MarkR]

Is the belly pan still in place? Again, I'm assuming it is. If it's elevator bolts "out in the field" of the plywood, you can set your skill saw for a 5/8" deep cut and cut out a small square around the bolt head, break up the remaining little plywood square and then use a bolt cutter to snip it off or a cut off wheel . . . If it's bolts out at the perimeter in the bottom wall track, thru the plywood and into the outriggers, AND everything (belly pan, outer skin) is still attached then you may need to take a "happy pill" and keep working on it. You might try a reciprocating saw and try to be as parallel to the side as possible (so you don't run the blade thru the side of the ext. skin) . . .