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Old 08-22-2008, 08:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets View Post
As I have stated numerous times, you don't need marine plywood what so ever, total waste of money.

Use exterior grade ply, it has the same glue as marine.

The difference with marine is the inner plys have no voids, can't have that on a boat.

This is not a boat.
The advantage of Marine ply isn't just the glue. It is a far superior product, much straighter, has more plies, and won't warp. The plies are much denser, and the wood is overall of a much better quality.
It is definitely not a waste of money.
Exterior grade plywood will do fine, but marine ply will be a vast improvement over exterior ply.
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Old 08-22-2008, 09:44 PM   #16
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If it lasts 40 or 50 years that will be long enough. Give the next generation the pleasure of restoring a Airstream!
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Old 08-31-2008, 08:04 AM   #17
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Well, we noticed that the stiffness factor was a small concern, so we had some angle iron welded in some of the bigger openings in the frame.



We've positioned two sections in - the stuff flexes a bit and we could rassle in full sheets.



Our problem now? The c-channel in front is too high - but only in spots. When we pulled the old floor, the flooring was underneath the c-channel - making it nearly 1/8th inch higher than the original 5/8ths. You can see it in the picture above...on each side of the window, there is a shadow between the floor and the c-channel.

The center of the front is snug and down...wander over a bit to the curve and it is as high as 1/8th off the flooring. Move to the side c-channel and once again, all is well.

I'm thinking someone moved the channel up?

We are considering drilling out the solid rivets (which we will have to do anyhow as we are replacing the bellypan,) and drop the c-channel down to where it should be. The front four bolts will hold the floor in place until we can do that.

But we are not ready to do the bellypan - we want the floor in first; I don't want the front "hanging there" as we wait to finish...it makes me nervous. Am I being too cautious? Will it hurt nothing?

I'm sure someone will tell us we are doing the two things: floor then bellypan backwards or wrong - but c'est la guerre, eh?

I for one, need my feet on the round to deal with the floor. I'm willing to lie underneath for the bellypan.
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Old 08-31-2008, 09:13 AM   #18
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If it lasts 40 or 50 years that will be long enough. Give the next generation the pleasure of restoring a Airstream!
LOL - I bet that's exactly what they said in 1962! How did we end up being the unlucky ones??
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Old 08-31-2008, 02:14 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by atmouse View Post
Our problem now? The c-channel in front is too high - but only in spots. When we pulled the old floor, the flooring was underneath the c-channel - making it nearly 1/8th inch higher than the original 5/8ths. You can see it in the picture above...on each side of the window, there is a shadow between the floor and the c-channel.

The center of the front is snug and down...wander over a bit to the curve and it is as high as 1/8th off the flooring. Move to the side c-channel and once again, all is well.

I'm thinking someone moved the channel up?
Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut View Post
The original appears to have been 5/8" but the vinyl floor tile also was under the c-channel which added a little more dimension to it. So the 3/4", while being a snug fit, will work.
I seriously doubt anybody "moved the c-channel up"...I think it's much more likely to have "sunk" in the area of the window because of the extra weight of the window & glass. The c-channel originally sat on top of the 5/8" plywood PLUS vinyl tile (as you noted). The vinyl tile was 3/32" thick which made the total thicker than 5/8" - more like 23/32" which just a hair under 3/4". If you replace it with 5/8" the c-channel is going to be higher unless you add the 3/32" back in with new vinyl tile to match the original...that's why we chose to go with 3/4".
The original was 5/8" + 3/32" = 23/32"
Option "A" - 5/8" = 20/32"
Option "B" - 3/4" = 24/32"
3/4" is closer to 23/32" than 5/8" and there was no way we were going to be able to put vinyl floor under the c-channel without doing a shell off to get to the original 23/32".

Shari
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Old 09-01-2008, 05:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
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I seriously doubt anybody "moved the c-channel up"...I think it's much more likely to have "sunk" in the area of the window because of the extra weight of the window & glass. The c-channel originally sat on top of the 5/8" plywood PLUS vinyl tile (as you noted). The vinyl tile was 3/32" thick which made the total thicker than 5/8" - more like 23/32" which just a hair under 3/4". If you replace it with 5/8" the c-channel is going to be higher unless you add the 3/32" back in with new vinyl tile to match the original...that's why we chose to go with 3/4".
The original was 5/8" + 3/32" = 23/32"
Option "A" - 5/8" = 20/32"
Option "B" - 3/4" = 24/32"
3/4" is closer to 23/32" than 5/8" and there was no way we were going to be able to put vinyl floor under the c-channel without doing a shell off to get to the original 23/32".

Shari

But the ONLY place where it looks to be "up in the air" is the inner curve of the c channel in the front. (So far...)

So we are out of luck with the VERY expensive stuff we bought, huh?
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Old 09-01-2008, 09:59 AM   #21
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In the old days, 3/4 ply really was 3/4 of an inch. Modern plywood, that is advertised as 3/4, is actually a metric dimension that is around 11/16, plus a hair. The import marine plywoods that are nominally called 3/4, would work just fine. A coat or two of epoxy around edges, and you'r in business.
The "acid" surface of epoxy, is an amine blush, that is easily cleaned off with just a little soapy water, then a light sanding, to give some "tooth" to the surface, then paint, if you wish.
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Old 09-01-2008, 10:12 AM   #22
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In the old days, 3/4 ply really was 3/4 of an inch. Modern plywood, that is advertised as 3/4, is actually a metric dimension that is around 11/16, plus a hair. The import marine plywoods that are nominally called 3/4, would work just fine.
Yep, that too...which is why it worked as a replacement with very little coaxing.

Shari
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Old 09-01-2008, 11:54 AM   #23
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Marine ply is a complete waste of money.

The difference is that inner layers have no knots or voids, required on a boat not in an RV.

Use exterior, same glue.

Now as far as epoxy it's been suggested to coat the edges, why stop there.

I coated the whole floor with a roller in 15 minutes, do you want never think about it again!
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Old 09-02-2008, 06:03 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LI Pets View Post
Marine ply is a complete waste of money.

The difference is that inner layers have no knots or voids, required on a boat not in an RV.

Use exterior, same glue.

Now as far as epoxy it's been suggested to coat the edges, why stop there.

I coated the whole floor with a roller in 15 minutes, do you want never think about it again!

We didn't use it and I'm not talking about plywood at all and I'm not using epoxy.

We put in another sheet and it looks excellent, it went in with just a good push and it bolted down tight without any distortion of the c channels. It is astonishing how firm the whole thing feels even partly bolted down again.

The stuff we got was a true 5/8th's. I suppose we could have gotten the 3/4ths and I wonder what kind of dimwit I am not to have recalled Sheri's most excellent advice.

Still, it looks good! The ONLY spot where the c channel is "up" is the interior curve in the front. We'll see if the channel can be dropped a tad when we do the bellypan.If not, we'll figure our some way to shim it - we will be putting linoleum down for our floor surface; maybe we'll just cut it so that it slides under the front curves, THEN bolt it down tight.
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Old 10-22-2008, 10:58 PM   #25
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Atmouse...question about the Coosa Flooring

Can you elaborate on the type of Coosa Flooring you chose? Is it the Marine, Bluewater...or??

Are you pleased with the choice? Can you share the cost of the product and ease of install and attachment hardware you used?

I noticed on the Coosa site that this product (depending on the actual style) is significantly lighter than plywood...that has got to be a plus in the reduction of tow weight.

Lastly...as a relative newbie in the initial stages of researching floor replacement, can you tell me if it is necessary to remove the lower wall panels to properly complete the install??

More photos of your finished product would be great.

Many thanks....
Best,
JB
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