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Old 11-08-2008, 08:31 AM   #29
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1973 31' Excella 500
Morristown , Tennessee
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I can appreciate the problem of bad floors. I am refurgishing my 1073 Excella and have found some bad places. The worst is in the rear right where the water pipes go through the floor. To really fix it properly, I would have to take the pipes apart then replace the floor and resweat the joints. It is located in the rear bedroom under a side table along with the fuse box. The isn't much storage there and no one will ever step there. I plan the cut out most of the bad wood, cut a template (can't use the rotted wood), and replace with new. The spot is about 1x2xft. It may not be as good as some of the perfectionists jobs I've seen here but will be close. The other spot is right next to the entry door where the weather stripping leaked. These are on both side and about 6 inches square. These are the most problematic for me. To do properly, I would have to remove a much larger area to reach ribs to attach the floor. Not a problem on the front side as I have removed the cabinets but the rear side have the univolt. I am not that interested in disconnecting the unit as I don't plan to replace it. I'm hoping I can reach a rib without too much problem.

I have repaced all of the weather stripping and am looking for more leaks. Planning to seal the roof openings before refinishing the exterior.

Good work for all - keeps a lot of guys out of trouble.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:57 AM   #30
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The rear floor on the 70's can be a problem. Water can come in where the rear bumper meets the skin and should be properly sealed. My 75 had a slight case of rot in the same area as you described. It was limited to the surface and the lower layers of plywood were still in good shape. I treated this area with Rot Doctor to prevent further problems and to give it back some additional strength. I also treated all the good wood in this area at the same time.

The water line on my trailer was relocated by a PO when the copper was replaced with PEX. The inlet is now on the outer skin above the floor.
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:03 AM   #31
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2004 25' Safari
. , Illinois
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I am not sure if you are talking about this dealer:

Parts and Service - Fogdall RV

I have seen a few jobs they did and they were really pretty darn good. Of course this was about 4-5 years ago........
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Old 11-08-2008, 02:20 PM   #32
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Thanks for all the follow-ups to my post. We have most of the bad floor out and are drying the entire area. Was really worried about the floor near toilet so had toilet pulled but floor around toilet is solid. We will not be doing much work now since it winter just arrived. We have trailer winterized and cover is on it. I COULD get in to work on it but doubt anything will be done until spring. And we are not-unfortunately-heading for Green Valley or Rockport this winter. This is No Country For Old Beat Up Men during the winter. HA!
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Old 11-08-2008, 09:29 PM   #33
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alumin8 View Post
I can appreciate the problem of bad floors. I am refurgishing my 1073 Excella and have found some bad places. The worst is in the rear right where the water pipes go through the floor. To really fix it properly, I would have to take the pipes apart then replace the floor and resweat the joints. It is located in the rear bedroom under a side table along with the fuse box. The isn't much storage there and no one will ever step there. I plan the cut out most of the bad wood, cut a template (can't use the rotted wood), and replace with new. The spot is about 1x2xft. It may not be as good as some of the perfectionists jobs I've seen here but will be close. The other spot is right next to the entry door where the weather stripping leaked. These are on both side and about 6 inches square. These are the most problematic for me. To do properly, I would have to remove a much larger area to reach ribs to attach the floor. Not a problem on the front side as I have removed the cabinets but the rear side have the univolt. I am not that interested in disconnecting the unit as I don't plan to replace it. I'm hoping I can reach a rib without too much problem.

I have repaced all of the weather stripping and am looking for more leaks. Planning to seal the roof openings before refinishing the exterior.

Good work for all - keeps a lot of guys out of trouble.
If you use plywood ledgers around the edge of the cutout area like I detailed above you do not have to cut the hole big enough to get to frame members. Lots of us have made repairs like that and there is even a recomendation from Airstream along the same lines in my 1973 shop manual. With the legders, glue and screws the patch is plenty strong enouh without going to frame members. So you can keep the problem small and local.

Malcolm
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Old 11-10-2008, 09:09 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster View Post
The rear floor on the 70's can be a problem. Water can come in where the rear bumper meets the skin and should be properly sealed. My 75 had a slight case of rot in the same area as you described. It was limited to the surface and the lower layers of plywood were still in good shape. I treated this area with Rot Doctor to prevent further problems and to give it back some additional strength. I also treated all the good wood in this area at the same time. .
I'm having a problem finding the rain seapage into my 1981 Excella II. Is this rear bumper a problem with 1981's as well??
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:57 AM   #35
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1973 31' Sovereign
Aransas Pass , Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anniedog View Post
And we are not-unfortunately-heading for Green Valley or Rockport this winter.
That's too bad. Rockport, TX is only about 10 minutes north from where I live. I'd be willing to try to help you out if you do happen to get down this way. I need to do some major floor repair on my '73 Sovereign and your floor problem sounds like it would be a simple fix compared to mine.
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Old 02-08-2009, 10:43 AM   #36
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See our post re: poor wheel well design. Might answer many questions for you...
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Old 02-17-2009, 05:01 PM   #37
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I replaced the plywood flooring in the entire rear end on my Argosy 20. Rain water is comming in, I'm guessing from the bumper area. I am going to tackle that soon. I'm not sure how I'll repair it but I'll know more when I remove the door and whatever else I have to remove from the top of the bumper.
Bo
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Old 02-17-2009, 08:02 PM   #38
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That large headed 'thing' is no doubt a screw that held the wood to the frame. I patched some places I had in a previous trailer and had to un-screw those to place the pieces in the spots I fixed.
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Old 04-19-2009, 04:15 AM   #39
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Meridian , Idaho
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OSB in a Trailer?

So who was the genius at AS the decided OSB in a trailer was a good Idea? I just got done ripping out the front and back of my 87 Excella. I would not wish that job on anyone. I found out when I ripped up the carpet (carpet on OSB in a trailer?) in the back bedroom to put in hardwood floors. I could put my finger through parts of it. Man was I . I hope they fired the jerk.
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:11 PM   #40
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Yeah, I feel your pain... See my post here titled "airstream quality control". Or just do a search re: Pepsi under the member search or post search to view it....

I found the same thing, same problem. I painstakingly removed all of the OSB from the frame and master cut the plywood to fit in and around the frame screws, which are critical to the structural integrity of the unit.

You could put your finger through the floor, I pulled out chunks and clumps by hand. Black and moldy. Our problem originated with a poor wheel well design. There is a seam between the wheel well and the frame doomed to fail. I have a fix for that too. Rivit or screw on a metal shield over the crutial part of the seam, the front and back. Then, spray on bed liner. I think we are going with Line X. You choose.

We have two Airstream trailers. one 1975 Trade Wind and one 1994 Excella. Both 25 footers. The 1975 has good solid ply wood. The 1994 has OSB. I have heard roomers that they are using partical board in the newer ones. Funny thing, the display I saw at the AS dealership in Sacramento had 3/4 in ply wood, not OSB, not partical board. Seemed like false advertising to me... Not cool.

We are at sheatlie@comcast.net if you have questions...

We had both our trailers in Yosemite for a shake down cruise after renovating each of them with new floors, servicing all components and new upholstery. They worked GREAT. Love em.

Airstream made them. I made them better. It will take them much longer to rebuild my opinion then it took me to rebuild their trailer. My standards are high and I would own no other. I just want Airstream to maintain the Quality Control, so that we, the trailer owners can maintain their reputation.

Happy travels all.
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Old 04-27-2009, 11:13 AM   #41
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Meridian , Idaho
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I saw the same thing in the wheel wells. there is a gap in the metal plate right behind the wheels that will let water under the floor. I haven't decided what to do about that yet.

I'm putting marine plywood in mine. Installing it today as a matter of fact. What would it cost to put plywood in during manufacture....... $200 more? I've spent weeks of my time and $1,000 fixing it. dah! Does AS know how upset owners are about this? I love the trailer and want it to last.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:08 AM   #42
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1978 Argosy 24
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Me Too!

I just picked up my 1st trailer last weekend and am very happy.
Except! I noticed the floor under the front sofa was bouncy. So one thing led to another and next thing I know I have a terrible rot spot below the water tank.
I was able to remove a lot of it without breaking out a tool. I bought a pc of treated plywood to replace it and I plan on painting the visible frame parts. But, today it's raining and I'm noticing water pooling on the aluminum sheathing in the same area I just cleaned up. I think it's coming from the window area and the small light on the front left belly area.
So, 2 questions.
Can I just seal it with a good quality silicone caulk from the inside and outside?
Am I approaching the floor replacement correctly?
I thought the tank must have been leaking, but it seems to have additional leaks.
Which actually raises one more question. Whats the best product to seal up the plastic tank where the fittings go in?
Thanks
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