Floor Disaster Surprise!

[SteveH]

Originally Posted by jump

and found a leak next to the door. the tack strips for the carpet are ruined and will need replacing...


Is this solution something that allows nails, brads or screws to fasten the tack strips for carpeting?

Yes, you can nail into the epoxy soaked wood, but screws into drilled holes would work better.

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by SteveH

I once had an Argosy that had leaked around the toilet and the particle board floor had turned to mush under the carpet. I too did not want to take the whole trailer apart to fix it, so I figured out another way.

I got some epoxy glue....lots of it...a big package of it...about 8 ounces from the hobby shop. Mixed up the glue, and thinned it with alcohol (a mixture of about 2 parts glue and one part alcohol), and then poured the entire mixture on the bad floor area. The thinned glue will soak into the wood, and make it as strong as steel when it hardens. We used that trailer for several years without any issues with the floor.

Given the same situation again, I would not hesitate to use the epoxy glue.

I have found an area of wood floor under a water pipe, in the rear of my 1981 Excella II, about 2"X8" of soft plywood. Should I apply the epoxy trick, or is this small of an area not worth doing anything to it? The floor is not supporting anything in this area, but is close to the dreaded rear end sag area. The water leak has been repaired.

[rogerdodger]

Instead of pirating this post, I will put my question into a new post.

[malconium]

Originally Posted by Anniedog

Overlander you have my sympathy. We know where the leaks were and have taken care of them. Fortunately ALL the metal we have found is bright and shiny-no problems at all. Our trailer was owned by an A'Scream fanatic before we bought it from him and he did all sorts of mods etc. to it with regular change/fix/ everything, including "white topping" the roof before the factory offerd it and installing the worlds greatest outside vented catalytic heater, twin automatic Fantastic fans, sliding bathroom door conversion etc.. Am more hopeful we can do this repair on our own.

This type of floor repair should be entirely possible from the top side of the floor. Here are the basic steps that are involved:

1.) Cut out the rotted area - preferably in a shape that is easy to cut a new piece to fit. Remove any screws or elevator bolts that were holding down the part you took out. You can use something like a hacksaw if necessary to cut them off.

2.) Use strips of plywood 4" to 6" wide to attach around the edges of the hole on the bottom side of the remaining floor so that they create a ledge to sit the new floor piece on. I would suggest some good wood glue and screws from above into the plywood strips to attach them. It helps to have a clamp of some sort to hold the strip in place while you put in the screws. The screws only need to be about every 6" or so. The glue will do most of the work. I would use 1-1/2" decking screws.

3.) Cut your new piece of plywood (not OSB) to fit the hole. Apply some wood glue on the ledger that you created in step #2. Insert the patch piece and screw it down.

4.) If the patch crosses over part of the metal frame (and it sounds like yours just might) you can add some self-drilling/self-threading screws through the new plywood into the frame. The kind that I used in replacing my entire floor are shown in the attached photo. I bought them at Home Depot but they would be available other places too. The smaller ones should be long enough.

It also sounds like from your description that for someone that is 70 years old you are not afraid to get involved at least. The steps I have listed above should make sense to anyone that is reasonably handy and are not really that hard to do. So if you can find someone that is generally handy you can have them read this and go to work - that is if you don't feel up to taking it on yourself.

I hope this helps. Also I would be happy to try to answer any questions if you have any.

Malcolm

[SUEHOWIE]

Originally Posted by cameront120

Mine too! Which is why I live here!

I have lived in Seattle for a year and a half and we have been to Vancouver three times so far to visit, and to visit a friend in Abbottsford another time as well. I love it there too.

[Ed Emerick]

I have an 88 29' as well and had the same problem (well it's still there I have 1/3 of the rear floor removed). The one leak that you have to check out is where the compartment door hinge covers the seam between the skins. Drill out the 6 or so rivets and seal that seam under the hinge, on both sides. I found that I had thought that I had all the leaks I could find fixed and then did the hose test and found the leak at the compartment door. You would think that at the factory this would have been done!????

Ed

Also drop me a line if you have questions I'm doing the same repair that you are as I type this.

[Ed Emerick]

Originally Posted by Forrest

There will be an article in the next Vintage Advantage newsletter on floor replacement and you might want to read that first before hiring anyone to do the work.

ya know when the next issue will be out?

[Shacksman]

Originally Posted by Ed Emerick

I have an 88 29' as well and had the same problem (well it's still there I have 1/3 of the rear floor removed). The one leak that you have to check out is where the compartment door hinge covers the seam between the skins. Drill out the 6 or so rivets and seal that seam under the hinge, on both sides. I found that I had thought that I had all the leaks I could find fixed and then did the hose test and found the leak at the compartment door. You would think that at the factory this would have been done!????

Ed

Ed, this is not a new problem with the factory. I just replaced the front panel on my 60 28' and there was no sealent at the seams. The side panels did overlap about a foot but you could see where the water had been seeping in and running along toward the interior. There is lots of vulcum on the seams now.

[Alumin8]

I can appreciate the problem of bad floors. I am refurgishing my 1073 Excella and have found some bad places. The worst is in the rear right where the water pipes go through the floor. To really fix it properly, I would have to take the pipes apart then replace the floor and resweat the joints. It is located in the rear bedroom under a side table along with the fuse box. The isn't much storage there and no one will ever step there. I plan the cut out most of the bad wood, cut a template (can't use the rotted wood), and replace with new. The spot is about 1x2xft. It may not be as good as some of the perfectionists jobs I've seen here but will be close. The other spot is right next to the entry door where the weather stripping leaked. These are on both side and about 6 inches square. These are the most problematic for me. To do properly, I would have to remove a much larger area to reach ribs to attach the floor. Not a problem on the front side as I have removed the cabinets but the rear side have the univolt. I am not that interested in disconnecting the unit as I don't plan to replace it. I'm hoping I can reach a rib without too much problem.

I have repaced all of the weather stripping and am looking for more leaks. Planning to seal the roof openings before refinishing the exterior.

Good work for all - keeps a lot of guys out of trouble.

[azflycaster]

The rear floor on the 70's can be a problem. Water can come in where the rear bumper meets the skin and should be properly sealed. My 75 had a slight case of rot in the same area as you described. It was limited to the surface and the lower layers of plywood were still in good shape. I treated this area with Rot Doctor to prevent further problems and to give it back some additional strength. I also treated all the good wood in this area at the same time.

The water line on my trailer was relocated by a PO when the copper was replaced with PEX. The inlet is now on the outer skin above the floor.

[Silvertwinkie]

I am not sure if you are talking about this dealer:

Parts and Service - Fogdall RV

I have seen a few jobs they did and they were really pretty darn good. Of course this was about 4-5 years ago........

[Anniedog]

Thanks for all the follow-ups to my post. We have most of the bad floor out and are drying the entire area. Was really worried about the floor near toilet so had toilet pulled but floor around toilet is solid. We will not be doing much work now since it winter just arrived. We have trailer winterized and cover is on it. I COULD get in to work on it but doubt anything will be done until spring. And we are not-unfortunately-heading for Green Valley or Rockport this winter. This is No Country For Old Beat Up Men during the winter. HA!

[malconium]

Originally Posted by Alumin8

I can appreciate the problem of bad floors. I am refurgishing my 1073 Excella and have found some bad places. The worst is in the rear right where the water pipes go through the floor. To really fix it properly, I would have to take the pipes apart then replace the floor and resweat the joints. It is located in the rear bedroom under a side table along with the fuse box. The isn't much storage there and no one will ever step there. I plan the cut out most of the bad wood, cut a template (can't use the rotted wood), and replace with new. The spot is about 1x2xft. It may not be as good as some of the perfectionists jobs I've seen here but will be close. The other spot is right next to the entry door where the weather stripping leaked. These are on both side and about 6 inches square. These are the most problematic for me. To do properly, I would have to remove a much larger area to reach ribs to attach the floor. Not a problem on the front side as I have removed the cabinets but the rear side have the univolt. I am not that interested in disconnecting the unit as I don't plan to replace it. I'm hoping I can reach a rib without too much problem.

I have repaced all of the weather stripping and am looking for more leaks. Planning to seal the roof openings before refinishing the exterior.

Good work for all - keeps a lot of guys out of trouble.

If you use plywood ledgers around the edge of the cutout area like I detailed above you do not have to cut the hole big enough to get to frame members. Lots of us have made repairs like that and there is even a recomendation from Airstream along the same lines in my 1973 shop manual. With the legders, glue and screws the patch is plenty strong enouh without going to frame members. So you can keep the problem small and local.

Malcolm

[rogerdodger]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

The rear floor on the 70's can be a problem. Water can come in where the rear bumper meets the skin and should be properly sealed. My 75 had a slight case of rot in the same area as you described. It was limited to the surface and the lower layers of plywood were still in good shape. I treated this area with Rot Doctor to prevent further problems and to give it back some additional strength. I also treated all the good wood in this area at the same time. .

I'm having a problem finding the rain seapage into my 1981 Excella II. Is this rear bumper a problem with 1981's as well??

[GoMopar440]

Originally Posted by Anniedog

And we are not-unfortunately-heading for Green Valley or Rockport this winter.

That's too bad. Rockport, TX is only about 10 minutes north from where I live. I'd be willing to try to help you out if you do happen to get down this way. I need to do some major floor repair on my '73 Sovereign and your floor problem sounds like it would be a simple fix compared to mine.

[Pepsi]

See our post re: poor wheel well design. Might answer many questions for you...

[Bo Walker]

I replaced the plywood flooring in the entire rear end on my Argosy 20. Rain water is comming in, I'm guessing from the bumper area. I am going to tackle that soon. I'm not sure how I'll repair it but I'll know more when I remove the door and whatever else I have to remove from the top of the bumper.
Bo

[zekethebear]

That large headed 'thing' is no doubt a screw that held the wood to the frame. I patched some places I had in a previous trailer and had to un-screw those to place the pieces in the spots I fixed.

[PetesPup]

So who was the genius at AS the decided OSB in a trailer was a good Idea? I just got done ripping out the front and back of my 87 Excella. I would not wish that job on anyone. I found out when I ripped up the carpet (carpet on OSB in a trailer?) in the back bedroom to put in hardwood floors. I could put my finger through parts of it. Man was I . I hope they fired the jerk.

[Pepsi]

Yeah, I feel your pain... See my post here titled "airstream quality control". Or just do a search re: Pepsi under the member search or post search to view it....

I found the same thing, same problem. I painstakingly removed all of the OSB from the frame and master cut the plywood to fit in and around the frame screws, which are critical to the structural integrity of the unit.

You could put your finger through the floor, I pulled out chunks and clumps by hand. Black and moldy. Our problem originated with a poor wheel well design. There is a seam between the wheel well and the frame doomed to fail. I have a fix for that too. Rivit or screw on a metal shield over the crutial part of the seam, the front and back. Then, spray on bed liner. I think we are going with Line X. You choose.

We have two Airstream trailers. one 1975 Trade Wind and one 1994 Excella. Both 25 footers. The 1975 has good solid ply wood. The 1994 has OSB. I have heard roomers that they are using partical board in the newer ones. Funny thing, the display I saw at the AS dealership in Sacramento had 3/4 in ply wood, not OSB, not partical board. Seemed like false advertising to me... Not cool.

We are at sheatlie@comcast.net if you have questions...

We had both our trailers in Yosemite for a shake down cruise after renovating each of them with new floors, servicing all components and new upholstery. They worked GREAT. Love em.

Airstream made them. I made them better. It will take them much longer to rebuild my opinion then it took me to rebuild their trailer. My standards are high and I would own no other. I just want Airstream to maintain the Quality Control, so that we, the trailer owners can maintain their reputation.

Happy travels all.