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Old 05-28-2004, 04:50 PM   #15
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1967 26' Overlander
Huntsville , Alabama
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I'm interested in seeing pics of the process and after. I have some spots in my Caravel that may be getting the same treatment.
Hi Stephanie,

One of these days, I am going to learn how to take good pictures, and buy a better camera.

Here are a few pictures that will leave you wanting

The first is the worst case after Rot Doctor equivalent, the second is the "big picture", and the last is when the Rot Doctor equivalent was making the Overlander able to leap tall buildings

The "before" pictures look the same only not as dark in the treated areas.

Make sure your affected areas are bone dry before applying chemicals.

Tom

Edit: Now that I look at the pics again, the "after" picture is after I applied the Rot Doctor stuff, let it cure, and applied some regular fiberglass resin to level it. Oh well, I will let the post stand for any value it adds.
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Old 05-28-2004, 08:36 PM   #16
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1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground , Washington
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Thanks for the pics. I'm almost afraid to pull up the vinyl and look at the floor in the Caravel, but I know I'm going to dig in and do it someday.

Interestingly, your overlander's layout is just like mine, as far as having the fridge right next to the door, and the vent in the floor. Did you reinforce around that floor vent at all? Mine looks rough, but I'm sure it's just cosmetic.
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Old 05-29-2004, 04:18 AM   #17
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1967 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
... Did you reinforce around that floor vent at all? Mine looks rough, but I'm sure it's just cosmetic.
No, I did not. Although my vent area was structurally sound (no water damage), it had been chewed on by squirrels who hoped to get out there instead of the way they came in, which was via the overhead refrigerator vent.

Since no one will be walking on the floor vent, there did not seem to be a good reason to spend time on it.

Tom
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Old 05-29-2004, 07:34 AM   #18
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1959 26' Overlander
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Did you use just resin or putty. Your area was more contained at least on the surface.
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Old 05-29-2004, 11:49 AM   #19
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1967 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychpw
Did you use just resin or putty. Your area was more contained at least on the surface.
I just used a Rot Doctor equivalent, and after that cured, the area was floated with fibergalss resin (no mat or cloth since it was so shallow).

Tom
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:09 PM   #20
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1959 26' Overlander
Putnam , Connecticut
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OK. So someone could have warned me about the fiberglass mat stuff. What a pain that is to work with. Comes apart all over the place. Please, use the cloth. Otherwise we seem to be in good shape. Cork floor is in and tank is filled for leak testing.
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Old 06-13-2004, 08:31 AM   #21
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epoxy for floor repair

I just ordered epoxy from www.raka.com . They have everything you need at better prices then the local marine store. I ordered on Wed and had the stuff on Friday. They will also be glad to answer questions. Be sure to buy the pumps as the ratios are critical and the pumps make it easier. They also have all types of fillers. I chose high strength finely chopped glass. Hope to get started on my 73 this week.
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:26 PM   #22
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1960 24' Tradewind
KINGSLAND , Georgia
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Marine epoxy source...and THAT'S NOT ALL!

When the bottom of my bathtub was cracking I just used TAP's softest epoxy--and lots of it... Like there's about 3/4" covering the whole bottom of the tub. Then I topped that with a coat of marine non-slip material. It's been eight-years and the tub floor actss like it did origianlly--it flexes due to rotted flooring beneath it, but it hasn't sunk out of sight yet!! Look up the TAP website <http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=27&> I might try rot doctor and then pour on a thick coat of their softest stuff. I'm looking for a stopgap measure--just so the coach stays road-worthy for a few more trips (there isn't actually any discernable sag yet). It only has to last as long as I do, and I'm on the proverbial slippery slope with a progressive neurological disease. Oh, and I'm considering cutting off the rear bumper extensions (the diamond pattern steel it supports has pretty much rusted out) and the spare tire carrier, which just adds weight to the rear where the trailer doesn't need it. I might get rid of the propane system, too, since I went to an electric-only fridge and don't use the stovetop or oven (the microwave does it all, and what it doesn't the microwave and a hot plate will). So I could cover the hole in the kitchen countertop where the stovetop was with cutting board to fit all the way from the rear kitchen sink to the closet wall (my 1960 24-footer is the single bed model with the vanity and two full length closets--one on each side.

Getting back to my main problem: 1) a previous owner cut off the belly pan from beneath the rear bath, leaving the floor to rot and the frame, outriggers, etc. to rust,, and 2) the dark water tank leaked for some time before I realized it, soaking and rotting the floor beneath it.I stripped the rotted layer and overlaid it with 3/4"plywood. Then I a direct fed the toilet through the existing hole in the floor (necessitating two 90 degree PVC fittings since the hole for the black water tank drain valve wasn't centered between the back-closet wall and the bathroom cabinet
/countertop. So now the toilet sits on a "throne" (a box covering the the convoluted PVC double 90 degree drop from the toilet to a four-way PVC fitting--4" in the top and out the bottom, and 3" in from each side (for the kitchen drain pipe and the bathroom drain pipe--coming from opposite directions)! . So this was OK, except that it dropped the sewer outlet so close to the ground so that at most RV parks the sewer hose goes uphill and the contents backs up into the fitting. I manage to seal up the whole thing, though, so that it doesn't leak onto the ground.

To my dismay, however, hot-humid air was inundating the back clothes closet. Upon investigation, the particle board floor screwed down insanely with no less than 26 1 1/2"screws was soaked through. And I can't get to it from underneath to see what's up since the belly pan still covers that area. But just past the rear end of the board I was able to punch all the way through the floor.

So when I get up enough courage, I'll pull off the particle board and probably trim the belly pan further forward so I can see where the water is coming from. This is going to entail jacking up the rear of the trailer, something I'm not looking forward to.

The good news is: when I put a level on the exterior of the trailer--horizontal frame member, bumbers, wraps, etc, it shows no sag. Inside is a different matter, however. It's definitely tilted to the left side.

The plan: lighten the trailer as much as possible, especially in the rear, rot doctor any wood I can get at, and then epoxy the begeezus out of it. Obviously, the closet floor will have to be replaced. Probably remove the propane lines and bottles and the Princess stovetop and oven. Cut the belly pan as far forward as necessary, leaving the curve intact and not getting into the U channel thing that I don't understand anyway. That way I could arttach an alternate material to the foot or so of belly pan curve left intact. There are lots of "outside the box" ideas that would work. Like an upside-down tonneau cover. Any ideas would be appreciated. Hopefully the frame and floor are still serviceable forward of at least the axle. One idea for inspection would be using light aircraft inspection holes and covers.

I know all of this will probably horrify the RivetMaster, but I know he understands my situation. I have to do it the "quick and dirty" way. And nobody knows everything, anyway. For instance, when I inquired why he was death on using any corrosion cleaner on the shell that contained acid: he must have been unaware that the active ingredient in the Alcoa step 1 cleaner sold by the Airstream Store is acetic acid.
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