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03-19-2004, 02:22 PM
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#41
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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Is this Alcoa Gutterseal you see here on the awning rail? looks factory to me ..........
how do I remove whatever this stuff (other than a dynamite )
Perhaps i should prep it somehow and reapply another coating especially where its cracking?
thanks friends
-Jason
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03-27-2004, 06:49 PM
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#42
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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need some welding here but i dont wanna take the plywood up to do it, Fabco here dont wanna lay on thier backs i guess lol
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03-27-2004, 07:18 PM
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#43
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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TV Antenna Leak
finally got this dam thing off, it was alot of work. Plan to use a Sat Dish on a tripod in the future and rivet the new panel over the hole (Bought from Fabco here in Cary NC for 5$)
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03-28-2004, 06:06 AM
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#44
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,335
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jjonesnc, you asked about the joint between the awning rail and the body. I've dealt with this by cutting off the bulk of the material with a sharp knife and scraping the rest with a blunt screwdriver. When most of the material is off, I've experimented with various solvents to find the most effective one for that particular goop. Try mineral spirits, acetone, denatured alcohol and WD40 for a start. When I've found the right solvent, I finish up by dipping steel wool in the solvent, and cleaning with that. The job takes hours of careful work, and a lot of elbow grease. When the surface was clean and dry, I put a thin bead of Vulkem on the joint between two strips of masking tape, and covered all the rivet heads with a small amount of Parbond. After a day to let that set, I covered the joint with a 20 foot length of high grade aluminum tape, about 3 inches wide, made for joining air ducts, and available from Home Depot, among others. It can't be seen from ground level, and could be covered with a fresh strip every few years if required. It has worked well. Good luck. Nick.
__________________
Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
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03-28-2004, 06:36 AM
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#45
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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thanks nick thats exactly what i needed
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04-03-2004, 12:44 AM
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#46
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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I Could Cry..........
I have been removing the bellyskin recently and this is what I have found.......
I could cry. I am not certain I can deal with this my friends.
This is much worse than I ever imagined it would be and this is the FRONT of a REAR BATH model I KNOW the back needs help and i havent even taken the bellyskin off back there, its actually eaten thru
I dont have room to totally gut this whole 32 foot beast and CERTAINLY do not have room or the desire to take the body off.
god help me
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04-03-2004, 06:14 AM
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#47
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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From the pictures that looks to be mostly surface rust, right?
As long as the rust is on the surface just get in there with a wire brush and clean it up, does not have to be completely removed, and POR-15 the metal to stop it. If the metal is rusted through someone here will have to advise you, but it may be time for you to learn how to weld to keep the costs down????
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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04-03-2004, 11:17 AM
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#48
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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Thanks Brett,
in many places its rusted completely thru and deeply pited in others. and yes I do see a welding class in my future, something I have wanted to learn for years now. I am going to remove the rest of the bellyskin soon and i pray that under the kitchen and bedroom isnt so bad.
thanks,
-Jason
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04-08-2004, 10:42 AM
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#49
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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Frame under the kitchen and bedroom is light surface rust only. why-o-why didnt AS put more rust preventative on the frame????Really its the TV antenna that is to blame for my woes mostly. ADVICE TO ANYONE WHO USES A TRIPOD MOUNTED DISH.....TOTALLY REMOVE AND PATCH PLATE THE TV ANTENNA.
The leak mine had was such that it was running down the interior wall panels into the top of the c-channel and going into the bellypan insulation. Im certain it leaked for years without being seen from the inside, it was all in the walls. Finally after being moved about some when i full timed in it for 3 years some flexing allowed a degraded rivet along where the water was flowing pop and i noticed the drips directly in line with the tv antenna along that rib.
Its what we dont see that kills us, and Airstream made a tight ship, except for out need to bring TV into the wild outdoors. While reading some other threads I cought myself wondering what has driven us to need dvd/mp3/lcd/wma/cd/THX Dolby Digital Surround Sound Home Theater/Internet/superdupermegabux entertainment technology while boondocking beside that beautiful pristine river we cant hear over our THX DVD we are totally engulfed in? Ok....fulltimers excluded in this I suppose, since I have a 1000 yes (1k) amphour 4000 watt inverter setup planned but i wouldnt be doing this unless i was going to be fulltiming.
I can hear wally screaming from his grave for quiet.
Jason
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04-08-2004, 01:14 PM
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#50
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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Here is a reconstructed photo of what my finnished product will (hopefully) turn out to be. Propane tanks will be where the spare tires are. Planned on putting two http://www.surrette.com/home.htm 513AH 6-volt batteries in the Box you see here. 2 Honda 2000's sure would fit nice in the box also and the weight is about the same. IF i go wit the hondas, i had planned on using a box the has a tank at the bottom and somehow pump the fuel up to the generators, much like a FI return system.
If Batteries i had planned to mount an additional 100 amp Chrysler Alternator to the tow vehicle engine. Perhpas some solar panels as well.
Thoughts????
-Jason
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04-20-2004, 05:41 PM
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#51
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3 Rivet Member
Cary
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 156
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Hello friends!
Thanks to Aaron (Wahoonc) for comming by and helping me come up with some ideas on this project. The bellyskin has been removed and the frame needs extensive work which was the main topic of this thread. I strayed a bit on the topic but the leaks must of course be repaired first.
Todays question is.......Vulkem 636 is NOT whats around the windows on the inside as seen in the above picture of the leaking around the "big window" The Vulkem will not bond to what ever this stuff is very well. What is that stuff? Dont tell me I have to scrape it all off and then Vulkem?
-Jason
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