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Old 03-12-2004, 07:23 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by thenewkid64


Start at the top and work down. Stay on each spot for 5-10 minuets. This will allow you to verify where the leak is.
Hope you find it/them. I have been down this road, it is not fun.
Brett, It works better if you start at the bottom and work up,...the last time I checked water runs down hill

Aaron
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:15 AM   #30
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Life in the gutter.

Quote:
Originally posted by thenewkid64


There is a natural channel that runs bow to stern on each side of the roof. Once the water gets to that it can show up anywhere.

I have been down this road, it is not fun.

"Natural Channel" ?? that is a new one to me. I ran a search with no viable results. Can not find any such in my manuals.??

Tell us more newkid64 !
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Old 03-12-2004, 09:23 AM   #31
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Stringers

I think Brett is referring to the stringer that runs the length of the roof. It is a channel shaped piece of metal.

You can see one in this photo. The channel is located right along the same line as the Awning rail, water gets into it and it runs the length of the roof and finds a hole, gravity kicks in and voila, water at the bottom
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:40 PM   #32
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Hello Friends....


"re store"(r-str, -str)
:To bring back to an original condition: I.E. restore a building


Its always been my practice to use as much and as many parts there are still with /on the object being restored and only add "new" (anything that didnt come with the ...in this case...vehicle) equipment when stock items cant be found. When I see an antique or classic vehicle I want to see it in its birth form..... Sure ...wild retrofits/modifications are great but out of respect for any classic vehicle I try to never do anything that cant be undone and the vehicle can still be "restored" to its original design. Perhaps its my nostalgic view of the past or the desire to preserve the past and the present for future generations that makes me want to preserve............
OK ..........I know a 1980 model isnt what we all think of as a "classic" but its 25th birthday is comming up and the big 80 will hit the big-time and venture into the world of the elite "classic" status......after all, whats considered classic now will be considered antique in the future.


I'm, planning ahead here to keep the "gophering" to a minimum and wondering about the name and source of these brads used to join floor sections together as shown in the picture.
Also the source for the big flat phillips head screws used to attach the floor to the frame or any alternatives to these methods since they will not be readily seen.......

God Bless

-Jason
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:43 PM   #33
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..........
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Old 03-12-2004, 07:49 PM   #34
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Jason,
The corrugated thingy is available at your friendly lumber yard it is a corrugated fastener. The screws are speciality item, may be available at an industrial supply house or speciality supply like Fastenal. They are a 2-1/2" "tech 5" #12 fastener. If I locate a supplier I will share the information with the forum.

Aaron
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Old 03-12-2004, 10:27 PM   #35
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JJonesnc:
You are not alone. The problems of rust and leaks has many of us wondering about the design itegrity of the AS. At this time I do not know how to attach a picture to this message, but if you check my pictures, you will find that I have exact same problem (except that mine are at all four corners). I have been repairing the floor rots and next (maybe during the summer) I'll get to the rusts. I beleive the best way is to open the underbelly and work from there. Let me know about your progress.
Cheers
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Old 03-12-2004, 10:46 PM   #36
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when I first bought the AS all I did was buy a .05cent retaining clip to fix the shower with and lived in it for 3 years.
The mildew got to me pretty bad tho finally.
For a 24 y/o camper its in really good shape. One doesnt find many if any campers besides Airstreams that have held up so well for their age. The thing about the leaks is that due to the way they are made the leaks are hard to detect untill you start working on something else and discover rotten floors.
At least thats how it happened with me............
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:42 AM   #37
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Arron, You are right I posted the leak detection instructions BACKWARD

Ken, you interpreted correctly what I was trying to say, and not doing a good job at it. Thanks!
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:10 PM   #38
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hi friends,
whats the sealant on the window in this pic? Vulkem or Parbond?
Doesnt look like anyone has had any panels off before me so it must be factory...........
Thanks!
-Jason
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Old 03-15-2004, 07:36 PM   #39
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Jason,

Should be Vulkem, the parbond is thinner. If you look around the vents and along the rub rails that is typically parbond. Vulkem is used to set windows, between panels and anywhere else a large amount of caulk is needed. Parabond is more for finishing and sealing small joints. From what I gather the factory is now using Silkaflex in as least some of the places it used to use Vulkem. Watch the names, they can be misleading all of them, vulkem, parbond, and sikaflex, make many different types of caulking.

Aaron
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Old 03-19-2004, 03:10 PM   #40
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Holding Tank Vent Gasket............

Other than the screen missing, this seal looks to be in great shape........i could barely get the cover off it was sealed so well.
Dont really see a problem here.
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Old 03-19-2004, 03:22 PM   #41
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Is this Alcoa Gutterseal you see here on the awning rail? looks factory to me ..........
how do I remove whatever this stuff (other than a dynamite )
Perhaps i should prep it somehow and reapply another coating especially where its cracking?
thanks friends
-Jason
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Old 03-27-2004, 07:49 PM   #42
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need some welding here but i dont wanna take the plywood up to do it, Fabco here dont wanna lay on thier backs i guess lol
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