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Old 02-01-2010, 10:19 PM   #1
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1968 30' Sovereign
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floor bolt question

When replacing the floor, without removing the belly pan, can you use self-tapping screws or do I have to use elevator bolts also?
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Old 02-01-2010, 10:52 PM   #2
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I asked the same question a few months back - I was advised to get the self tapping flooring screws (by the Tapcons at Home Depot) and they worked great. There has been more recent advice that the ones from Vintage Trailer Supply (VTS) are a length in the middle of the two available at Home Depot and fit better, but I just made do with what HD had.

Just noticed you have the same beast as me, too
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:19 PM   #3
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We plan on using elevator bolts on the edge of the sheet we can reach and then self tapping screws on the edge that butts up to that edge. Saw it on a thread somewhere. Susan
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Old 02-01-2010, 11:56 PM   #4
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My original plan was the same as yours, I did not want to remove the belly pan . . . then I "slipped off the slope". Before the "Slip", when I was following my plan, I found, because the outriggers are fairly light gage (and often times rusty/corroded), that the self-tapping screws easily "spun" and stripped out the threads they had just created. After I slipped I bought the elevator bolts and added them as well.

How much floor are you replacing? If it's pretty extensive I'd be concerned. If it's "limited" then maybe switch to hand tightening just before the screws bottom out. If you use the Vintage Trailer Supply versions (because of they're relatively large head) maybe even drill a small countersink seat so the screw head doesn't have to create it. The other thing I'd do is use more of them than you otherwise would have - maybe 6" on center.

Just my dos centavos. Good Luck and stay away from the edge of that slope.
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Old 02-02-2010, 12:48 AM   #5
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on edit:
I meant outriggers AND cross members as they're usually the same material (and for all I know a '68 has "light gage" main rails as well - my '60 has fairly heavy "box beam" main rails).

Also, another strategy if you are replacing a lot of sub-floor would be to add/weld 1/8" bar stock or 2x angle to the underside of the top flange of the cross members and outriggers so that you have something substantial to "tap" into - just idea.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:11 AM   #6
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I just wanted to add my 2 cents again...so what does that make for this thread now, 8? Anyway - I did not have the issue MarkR had with the screws - maybe the 68' frame is made of something more substantial? The only time I had an issue was if I hit or partially hit a previous hole - which out of the whole floor (yes I did the whole floor with those screws...except along the channel) I only did a couple of times. I also had very little damage in terms of rust on my frame except for behind the wheel wells.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:11 AM   #7
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Um...yeah...I said in another thread I cain't add nun too good...it holds true here, also
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:52 PM   #8
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I'm replacing the whole floor. Most of the edges were rotten.
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