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Old 11-07-2007, 09:16 PM   #1
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1966 26' Overlander
Conover , Ohio
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floor about to go

Well, I think I am getting close. I am replacing the rear (bath) floor section of my 66 Overlander. My plan is to cut along the red line and slide the floor section out the left side. I plan to make a cardboard template of all the holes in the floor just in case it gets destroyed during removal. My main question now is on the exterior. I read several posts on how to remove the olympic rivets. If I remove the rivets in the circle area and on around the corner, will this allow the panel (marked X) to drop out of the way to allow the floor to come out the side? I realize I will have to lift the body and/or drop the frame a bit to loosen things up a bit. If needed, I will remove more edge bolts along both sides help the body/frame separation. I don't see a problem at this point, but this is my first stab at a floor repair. Am I on the right track?? Thanks, Tom
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Old 11-08-2007, 11:16 AM   #2
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Eureka , California
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When I did the same floor removal as you, I couldn't get the rear out in one piece. I had to take it out in chunks to access all the bolts and not have to remove both sides of the banana wrap. I wish you much success!!

The banana wrap marked 'X' will come out if you have removed the trim and all rivets from the bumper (where the panel begins) all the way to partially under the next segment that wraps under. If I remember correctly, it's a bit of a struggle to get out- I mangled a bit of it- but removing it makes the project much easier.
Good luck!
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:17 PM   #3
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An alternative approach to think about...

Here is an alternative approach that might be easier. Something to think about anyway...

Make your cardboard template and then cut the floor into pieces for removal without sliding out the side. What you can do is use a circular saw with the blade depth set a hair less than the plywood thickness. You can cut out a piece in the middle of the piece you are removing for example and then remove the pieces around the edges by pulling them in toward the center.

Cut your new piece of plywood using your template as a guide. When you get ready to put the new piece back in slice it down the middle lengthwise. After the first piece is in place glue and screw a plywood spline along where the middle seam will be. The spline can be in the range of 4" wide or so. With a little finessing you should then be able to get the second piece in place. You can attach the second piece to the middle spline. Don't forget to put some glue on the spline before you put the second piece in place. The resulting spliced piece of plywood should be plenty strong enough and you will have saved yourself a lot of agravation.

Malcolm
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Old 11-10-2007, 10:28 PM   #4
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1966 26' Overlander
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the floor is out

Malcolm

I had thought about splitting the floor section, but my black water tank fits right up against the floor in the area I would have to put the splines, so I chose to remove it in one piece. It took some time to get the banana wrap off, but other than that, it went well. By the way, what is the gooey sealer used between the u channel the banana wrap and the outer skin? I want to make sure I used the same stuff going back together.

Once the banana wrap was off, and ALL the floor bolts were out, I made the cut where I thought it would be easiest to place the splints from below. I jacked the body up about an inch to loosen things up a bit. I pulled the old floor section forward a bit, which helped it slide out the side without a problem. Since it came out in one piece, I won't have to use the cardboard template. I also used the same jack setup when I was getting to those pesky rivets on the banana wrap. This helped a bunch. I'm sure this isn't the only way to pull an old floor, but it worked for me. I hope the pics help anyone facing the same challenge. Thank you all for your input. Tom
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:02 PM   #5
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The sealer that would have been used originally would be Vulkem. It is still available and is a great choice. There are some alternatives and a good thread to look at for a discussion of the relative merits is the following:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f456...more-7626.html

Take note of the fact that Vulkem comes in different types. Lowes and Home Depot both sell one type. It is a bit on the grainy side I think because that model was designed to use for caulking with masonry. I believe that I read somewhere though that it is essentially the same in most other regards and it is available locally. Gooping up around the bottom of the trailer is not as much of a cosmetic issue as some other places might be. I used the variety from HD and Lowes and feel happy enough about it.

Whatever you do don't use silicon caulking products. It won't take much reading here in the forums to find out that it is strongly advised against.

Malcolm
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Old 11-20-2007, 11:45 PM   #6
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sealer?

I have the new floor cut and ready to install, but I want to use a sealer of some sort. I see a lot of posts for S-1 sealer. Is this thin enought to really soak into the wood? And where is the best place to pick S-1 up? I also ran across a wood preservative called Jasco Termin-8 at Ace hardware. It sounds reasonable at $24 a gallon and protects against rot, fungi, and mildew. Sounds like my kinda stuff, but has anyone used this product before? Tom

PS I found a lot of what I needed to do the floor at my local Fastenal store. They had elevator bolts, wood to metal self tappers, and even had Vulkem.
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:44 AM   #7
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Hi Tom,

I just want to say that I have learned a lot from reading Your posts and the answers from others. I, too, have a 66 and will be starting the rear bathroom floor project this coming winter/spring.

When You said that you jacked up the body, did you mean the shell?

Thanks!
Steve
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Old 11-21-2007, 09:35 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by air66stream
I have the new floor cut and ready to install, but I want to use a sealer of some sort. I see a lot of posts for S-1 sealer. Is this thin enought to really soak into the wood? And where is the best place to pick S-1 up? I also ran across a wood preservative called Jasco Termin-8 at Ace hardware. It sounds reasonable at $24 a gallon and protects against rot, fungi, and mildew. Sounds like my kinda stuff, but has anyone used this product before? Tom

PS I found a lot of what I needed to do the floor at my local Fastenal store. They had elevator bolts, wood to metal self tappers, and even had Vulkem.
I just this morning made a post about Fastenal, I got all the parts needed to redo my Airstream there also.
I have quite a few pictures of our floor job posted, it was a job.
but now we have a very nice trailer.
I was going to go with treated plywood, wood preservative etc, but I decided against it, primarily for the smell. Also, the floor on our 78 lasted 30 years, I figure I'll be dead and gone before it needs replacing again! I'll let the next owner worry about it.

btw, we slid our bathroom floor out the back, got my son and three of his buddies and they lifted up the shell and slid out the floor. We slid in a new piece and marked the curvature, cut it and put it back in. It was the easiest part of the job.
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Old 11-21-2007, 05:38 PM   #9
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jacked up

Thanks Steve and Jim

Steve, From the way I had my jack, I'm not sure if I was jacking up the shell (body to us car guys), or jacking down the frame. But either way, it gave me the clearance to get the floor out in one piece so I didn't have to depend on my cardboard pattern. In the next few weeks I'll post some pics when I get the floor put back in. For now I am working on some wiring and other issues.

Jim, I did get a chuckle because I read your other post first. The Fastenal store is great, and I was able to get the smooth Vulkem. I didn't like the sound of the grainy stuff. I think I am going to just use the elevator bolts around the outside edges of the floor and use the self tapping screws everywhere else. I think this will eliminate a lot of the creaky floor.
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