Do you mean that after the first time out all of the flooring will shift during transit? Going side to side looks easier to me. I would like to put a patch of vinyl right at the door, and place vinyl in the bathroom.
Why would you run it sideways compared to the length of the AS
Larry and Nicole
Lesson learned the hard way - We installed lengthwise, and the flexing of the frame (26') is causing buckling issues. Sideways is definitely the better way to go.
To the subfloor or cabinets. We travel quite a bit and the vibrations worked the nails out so I went back with liquid nails this has held the trim in place. It will work with the floor and cabinets. I have a 34' and went lenthwise and had no problems. Whatever works for you is the way to go. Side to side will be alot easier to fit. I never even considered going side to side the marine side of me said decks go fore to aft not atwartships not that its any better.
Rick
__________________
Keep the shiny side up. WBCCI # 3485 Region 3 2nd VP
Past President Tidewater Unit 111
visit tidewater Virginia's web page @ www.tidewaterwbcci.com
Rick Bell in "Silverbell"
So the general concensus is...install side to side, do no place underneath the existing gouchos, beds, or cabinets to allow the floor to flex. Then at the end glue the qtr round over the edge, or caulk it, and I saw Barry used angled aluminum in his 72 Overlander.
the overlander renovation which was documented on the diy channel used a cork floor laminate. they took it up to (but not touching) the wall of the trailer. they then used a finish strip which was riveted into the either the "c" channel or the inner skin panel. this would be much like the trim cover for the fresh water tank running on the floor next to the wall going to the sink which was also riveted to the inner skin. if you nail a piece of quarter round into the subfloor, just make sure you do not go through the floating laminate with any of the nails. remember, it is a "floating" laminate and it needs to be able to move. good luck on your renovation.
as stated above the side to side method prevents the buckling from happening.Nailing the round into the floor only will not hurt anything. I used the plastic type that I drilled with a pilot hole first.
If you take out the furniture seal up the holes from the old screws with wood putty. Then the new holes will not match exactly but it won't matter.
Be sure while you have evrything out that if there are any water spots on the subfloor there are not present leaks to match, and fix any rotting or weakend wood.
__________________
Rallys twice a year..Lots of fun, food, and aluminum.
My son-in-law just completed the install of the flooring and I did the trim. What I used for trim is oak strips cut down to 1" by 1/2" then sanded to take off sharp corners. Next I nailed it to the sub-floor or blocks which I installed under the cabinets. We have had the trim vibrate loose on our previous floor so this time I used a spray adhesive which will allow me to peel back the trim if need be but should keep it in place if the nails work loose.
I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.
mine is installed lengthwise, NOT under any furniture (can't, really, with the 70's cabinets, which stand on legs; they'd have to be cut). Its gone through sub-0 NewEngland winters, with no buckling.
I've seen linoleum floors trimmed with aluminum angle in houses; seems that would be very appropriate in the trailer. I used the stock 1/4 rounds, but there are very few places in my trailer where the walls meet the floor in a visible location. (almost everything is behind a cabinet or piece of furniture). In these few spots, I used quarter round and attached it to the wall with 3M double-stick tape. It actually works pretty well.
I think the concern about cold was more for creature comfort than regard for the flooring. My answer to that is that throw rugs are MUCH easier to maintain than the wall to wall carpet that's in there now. We have cork that I plan to put down sometime this winter. I woul d have guess lengthwise was easier but evidently not so. I haven't decided for sure which way to go. Both look terrific in all the photos I've seen so far.
I disagree that buckling is a result of lengthwise vs. widthwise installation; it is the result of not being able to float...either not installed with an adequate expansion gap, or being nailed or screwed down to the floor in some spot, or having heavy furniture on top of it that prevents movement.
Chuck
1) I definitely have enough expansion room.
2) It's not nailed or screwed anywhere
3) Nothing is on it that prevents movement.
It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.
Soldiermedic
Check out these threads for more advice and others experiences with laminate:
It's not that clear in the second shot, but the ends of each piece are where it started buckling. After more trips, it's getting progessively worse. Temperature has not been an issue. I'm going to pull it all up and re-install widthwise.
In that picture the planks look very wide.
How many inches in width are they?
THe ones I see look much narrower.
__________________
Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB '07 GMC 4x4 2500HD EC 8.1 Allision six | Bedrug | Softopper | Airbags
WBCCI 11411 | Metro NY | AIR 15915
WBCCI Time's a-changing Say no to Lawrence Welk attitudes
Which brings up another excellent part to this adventure. Go with the wide planks, or with the very narrow planks? Is there a difference in them other than it taking longer with the narrow planks?
Quick Links
Say no to Lawrence Welk attitudes
Linear Mode
