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Old 09-05-2011, 08:38 AM   #15
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Leak Seal

When we had our interior panels off, the trailer was outdoors. During a big rainstorm, I marked 17 different leaks.

Someone suggested Alcoa Gutter Seal for the sealing the inside seams and I used that. Then I cleaned and sealed the outside of the seams with Vulkem.

Since it took a while to get the insulation and wiring done, I had a few rainstorms for leak tests -- no leaks at all when I buttoned it up.

I think Colin Hyde mentioned some kind of automotive seam sealer on the VAP as another option vs. Gutter Seal.

John
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:12 PM   #16
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Progress on The Frame

The frame is off to the sandblaster/painter this week. Here are some pics of what the welders did to shore up the frame. The whole frame was rusted and pitted, but not to the point of needing a full replacement. Almost all of the outriggers were replaced. The welded in some angle iron on the inside of the main frame rails. They also gusseted some of the cross members.

We cleaned up the inside of the main frame behind the axles and primed it with cold galvanizing spray paint. I wanted to protect this area at least a little before boxing it in, since it will not be exposed for painting after that.

They decided to just box it in from the axles back (no pics yet), since that is where most of the damage is and where the tanks, bath, etc are. Obviously it was not strong enough to begin with, and it is cantilevered out a pretty long way over the axle.

They also rebuilt my completely rotten steps. They made a new rolled under step plate, modified outriggers, used old parts, made new parts, and it turned out perfect.

I would have been screwed without these guys...








Of course this is all fairly simple for guys who build stuff like this every day (and this is a teeeeny tiny one)...
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:23 PM   #17
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...and on the shell!!!

I ordered a bunch of POR-15 and all the prep stuff, but then cancelled it. The guy that is going to sandblast and paint the frame has done several units for this shop. He has an epoxy primer that he uses that sounds like the same thing. It was required for some units they built to be sent to Indonesia to survive in jungle conditions. Sounds tough. One less thing to deal with.

I stripped the clear coat off of the shell. I bought 4 gallons of Rustoleum Aircraft Paint Remover, but only used 2.5 gallons. I rolled it on and pressure washed it off after about 5 minutes. You probably don't even need to wait that long. This stuff KILLS the clear coat in seconds. It is best to apply it to a dry surface.

There was no clear coat left on the top, and it is pretty oxidized, but the sides look NICE! Polishing just went way down on the list of importance.


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Old 09-10-2011, 01:57 PM   #18
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Looks nice! How'd you treat the glass, handles, and lights? Mask em? Or what?
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Old 09-10-2011, 06:49 PM   #19
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All the glass is real glass. I did not see any warnings about glass, so I did not do anything. Did not seem to hurt the glass. I removed all plastic. All my handles are shot and pitted. The only thing I think might have been scarred is the door hinge. Oops.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:46 AM   #20
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Great thread to follow, now I know why my plywood floor is flexing right inside the door. Thank's
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Old 09-11-2011, 11:07 AM   #21
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I'm working on my plumbing layout now. I need to get the tanks figured out so I can move forward with the floor. I am going to add a 16 gallon gray tank from VTS. I know that is not very big, but seeing how I can drain it onto the ground I'm not that worried about it. The black tank appears to be in good shape. It has a UPS shipping label on it going to Bob Jones RV in Houston in 1983, so the tank was replaced around then. Anybody got a good way to test it out or a good reason not to use it?

For fresh water I'm for sure going to get a 28 gallon tank from VTS which I will put above the floor and build into a b3ench on the street side opposite the kitchen. I am considering also adding a 20 gallon tank in the nose of the trailer for additional water for longer trips.

I plan to use air admittance valves anywhere I can (all the sink drains at least). I understand that the fresh tanks will essentially vent themselves through the fill opening. Can my black and gray tank share a vent?

Fire away with suggestions as this feels like a daunting part of the rebuild and I need to order tanks like yesterday.
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Old 09-11-2011, 04:50 PM   #22
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Should weight distribution not be a consideration in the design stage. 10lbs per gallon for water. My airstream vented the gray water, shower and toilet all through the same vent stack.
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Old 09-11-2011, 10:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by P&K View Post
I'm working on my plumbing layout now. I need to get the tanks figured out so I can move forward with the floor. I am going to add a 16 gallon gray tank from VTS. I know that is not very big, but seeing how I can drain it onto the ground I'm not that worried about it. The black tank appears to be in good shape. It has a UPS shipping label on it going to Bob Jones RV in Houston in 1983, so the tank was replaced around then. Anybody got a good way to test it out or a good reason not to use it?

For fresh water I'm for sure going to get a 28 gallon tank from VTS which I will put above the floor and build into a b3ench on the street side opposite the kitchen. I am considering also adding a 20 gallon tank in the nose of the trailer for additional water for longer trips.

I plan to use air admittance valves anywhere I can (all the sink drains at least). I understand that the fresh tanks will essentially vent themselves through the fill opening. Can my black and gray tank share a vent?

Fire away with suggestions as this feels like a daunting part of the rebuild and I need to order tanks like yesterday.
I love VTS for a LOT of things, but the tanks did not seem to be cost efficient there. I found these 11 gallon ones for $70 each, and although I haven't received my two yet, I am ordering with custom fittings and sensors, and they'll end up being less than the VTS price. For freshwater I purchased a 42 gal one on ppl motor homes on a clearance sale for $140 incl. shipping, which is more comparable to VTS, but the size fit better.

- Peter
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:35 AM   #24
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Weight distribution is important for sure. In fact I didn't even list it because in my mind it is a given. By all means, suggest away. Im not reusing my fresh water tank because it is broken. Im not buying a direct replacement because they are $500 and that is highway robbery. Would just one bigger tank be a better solution right in the nose? I could build it into the pull out couch I guess.

I like suggestions for cheaper tanks, especially if you know where I can get them NOW. I need them as soon as possible.
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Old 09-12-2011, 10:41 AM   #25
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Weight distribution is important for sure. In fact I didn't even list it because in my mind it is a given. By all means, suggest away. Im not reusing my fresh water tank because it is broken. Im not buying a direct replacement because they are $500 and that is highway robbery. Would just one bigger tank be a better solution right in the nose? I could build it into the pull out couch I guess.

I like suggestions for cheaper tanks, especially if you know where I can get them NOW. I need them as soon as possible.
Well the 42 gallon freshwater tank from ppl came within 5 days, and I ordered the cheap shipping. However, the tanks take 2-3 weeks from RV surplus, and I'm on week 3 with no word of shipping, so I wouldn't rely on that for speed.

My floor is in a holding pattern and I'm finding things to paint and polish in the meantime.
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Old 09-13-2011, 08:44 PM   #26
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I need to do some measuring, but I'm thinking I will just put one bigger tank under the fold out couch in the nose. That will even things out. What do you guys think? I need help with this part.

I'm probably going to scrap the gray tank idea for a few reasons. Number one is that VTS is out of them for a while. Number 2 is that I don't t think its that important anyway, and its going to seriously hold up my efforts. Number 3 is that I think I can plumb for it and just cap it off and install one later from underneath if I want. I will be doing the belly pan in 48" sections.
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Old 09-14-2011, 01:36 AM   #27
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Check out these tanks. I used one for black and one for grey.
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Old 09-14-2011, 08:19 AM   #28
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Can you locate your water tank closer to the axles? Let the axles carry the loaded weight. You'll increase the tongue weight loaded with water.
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