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Chuck · 07-11-2011, 06:58 AM

Well, after years of talking about it, I finally started dismantling the bathroom in order to fix the standard-issue rear floor rot. (and of course, while I'm at it, this is the time to upgrade holding tanks).
I've been putting it off, waiting for the right combination of time and money to happen...and not wanting to take it off-line during camping season. I've finally accepted the fact that this simply isn't going to happen. gotta bite the bullet, accept that there ain't gonna be any camping for a while, and just get on with it.
Got the sink/lav out yesterday. (after a late start). no turning back now!

First question: how do I get the drains out of the sink and shower, without damaging the abs plastic?
I disconnected the sink via the slip-joint in the trap; It looks like the drain is threaded into the tailpiece...but I'm not sure. don't want to over-torque anything, and break the plastic.
I imagine that the drain itself is attached like an interior sink...plumber's putty, etc. how do you get that apart?
(I figure the drains need to be removed in order to paint/re-finish the fixtures).

Lance M · 07-11-2011, 08:03 AM

Chuck,
Glad to hear you are getting started. It is always easier after you start removing things. We're all rooting for you!
As for the sinks, the bath sink has a normal bar sink drain. The ABS pipe threads onto the metal sleeve of the drain. I used some big channel lock pliers to get it apart. It took a bunch of grunting. I had the whole sink removed from the trailer before I took the drain out. It is all standard plumbing stuff.
Good luck!

Chuck · 07-11-2011, 03:08 PM

I got the pipe off ok. didn't take much torque at all...but what about the actual drain piece, itself? there's a nut on the underside that will (obviously) need to be removed--but will that be all that needs to be done?

on another note: whomever had this bathroom out the last time put it all back together using rivet washers. interesting...don't see them mentioned much here.

Lance M · 07-11-2011, 04:31 PM

Yes Chuck. There is a backing nut that holds the drain in place.

When I re-installed the bathroom, I used the rivet backing washers where plastic was riveted to plastic and I had access to the area. Now they have been mentioned twice here!

Chuck · 07-11-2011, 06:40 PM

I guess my concern is that the plumber's putty that they use to seal the base of a drain when they install it...does that set up like super-glue, or does the drain come out easy once you get that backing nut off?

Lance M · 07-11-2011, 07:30 PM

It is just a water sealant. It'll come right off.

Chuck · 07-12-2011, 05:36 PM

Of all the floor replacement threads I've read over the years, I've never been able to figure out one thing:

How do you cut the little bit of wood that under the c-channel? I can see cutting across the floor w/ a circular saw, until you get within an inch or 2 of the wall, and you can't go any further...you could cut the last inch with a hand-saw...but how do you get between the frame and the shell?

Lance M · 07-12-2011, 06:03 PM

Chuck,
Are you referring to the seams where the floor sheets butt together? If so, they are only attached together in between the main frame rails. There are a few staples on the outer edges of the joints holding the sheets together.
If not, a jig saw and a Dremel will do the trick. I used a coping saw in a few places for tight cuts.
Got any pics yet?

Chuck · 07-12-2011, 06:26 PM

No, because I wasn't planning on replacing the whole 4' wide sheet of floor. a: its only the last 8-12" thats bad. b: to get to the 4' mark, I'd have to gut 3/4 of the trailer.
So my thought was to just go up to the first cross member. (I'll have my welder/brother-in-law tack a piece of angle iron to the x-member, so there'll be a "nailer" for the new piece of floor).
So picture me taking a circular saw, setting it to 3/4" depth, and doing a plunge cut in the middle of the floor, and pushing across toward the wall....that shoe is going to bump into the wall and prevent me from cutting all the way to it...and then there'll be an inch and a half of wood sandwiched between the c-channel and the frame. how to cut through there?

(maybe it would be easier to just pull the bunks and cabinets out.

but where to put them in the mean time?)

Splitrock · 07-12-2011, 06:47 PM

I used a Porter-Cable Oscillating saw with a metal cutting blade. I removed the inside skin and removed the screws. Then I removed the plywood from the channel with a straight screwdriver. The plywood that wanted to stay in the channel I massaged out with the Porter-Cable saw.

Chuck · 07-12-2011, 06:57 PM

ah. I was thinking "one of those". my dad has the craftsman version.
my carpenter buddy has the fancy one...
You can't cut metal with those, though, can you? (screws...bolts, etc).

Splitrock · 07-12-2011, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck

ah. I was thinking "one of those". my dad has the craftsman version.
my carpenter buddy has the fancy one...
You can't cut metal with those, though, can you? (screws...bolts, etc).

There's a metal cutting blade for it. I tried to cut a screw with it. The problem was, it loosened the screw and then the screw just 1/4 turned with the saw stroke. The metal cutting blade went to no visible teeth in quite a hurry:-)

I like the saw. I use it quite often. It works good to undercut door jambs in remodel jobs too.

Chuck · 07-13-2011, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top

Got any pics yet?

Almost forgot. "no pics--didn't happen"

Floor Project 2011 - Photo Gallery

looks pretty much like the south end of every other northbound 70's 'stream, undergoing the same project.

InsideOut · 07-13-2011, 05:20 PM

Where's Mike Rowe when you need him...?

I'm sure you will be glad when this "little project" is behind you ~

Shari

Chuck · 07-13-2011, 05:30 PM

I know, its nutty. Look at the first pics, just before starting--nice and clean! Its only when you start picking away that all that dirt and gunk comes out of the inaccessible crevasses. Of course, the sticky-vinyl walls that can't ever be cleaned and thereby attract every bit of dirt that passed through over the last how-ever-many decades...doesn't help.

all I can figure is that stuff must condense on solid surfaces. there's always gunk in the vanity cabinet every spring. can't all be mouse poop. You can see a couple of those plumbing couplers are sharkbites...those are only a couple of years old, and they're covered in gunk.

InsideOut · 07-13-2011, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck

I know, its nutty.

I know we've had our share of nutty projects...things always get worse before they get better!

We went through a similar "yucky project" on our GT right before we sold it.
I sure wish "Mike" woulda been around to help us...

Shari

Jim & Susan · 07-13-2011, 06:30 PM

Really surprising how different your 24'er and my 27'er are, bathroom-wise that is.

Once you cut the bad floor out, do you intend to open up the walls so that you can install new elevator bolts for the new floor splice? The radius area and back plate on mine were kinda weird. It was almost a requirement to pull some walls sections out. You might be able to get to it from underneath if you take out a piece or two of the belly pan, tho.

Jim

mnmhays · 07-13-2011, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck

Of all the floor replacement threads I've read over the years, I've never been able to figure out one thing:

How do you cut the little bit of wood that under the c-channel? I can see cutting across the floor w/ a circular saw, until you get within an inch or 2 of the wall, and you can't go any further...you could cut the last inch with a hand-saw...but how do you get between the frame and the shell?

I went as far as I could with a circular saw and 'carefully' used my sawsall to do the rest...where it left bits and pieces in the channel, I gouged it out gently with a 1/2" drill bit. I only replaced 18" across the front of our Argosy and 3' feet in the rear...I had the lower interior panels out to access the C-channel as well.

Chuck · 07-14-2011, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Really surprising how different your 24'er and my 27'er are, bathroom-wise that is.

yes, the 23 safari and 25' Trade Wind share this layout; larger units are totally different, with the sub-floor mounted tank.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

Once you cut the bad floor out, do you intend to open up the walls so that you can install new elevator bolts for the new floor splice?

Yeah, thats the plan. I don't think there's a choice, really. Belly pan is coming off, too. I've had it down before. I did some temporary repairs under there a few years ago, when I discovered that I had the problem. I pulled down the pan, took out the insulation, and was able to cut some small pieces of plywood to fit the "missing" area of floor. I was able to feel around under the channel, and the bolts were all there, and solid. I marked their locations onto the board with a pencil, and cut slots in it with a jig saw, so that I could slide it into place, and then glued/screwed cleats from the new piece to the solid floor.
So its not like there was any danger of the floor collapsing; (at least, not between the main frame rails, which is where any people would stand, (or sit, in this case)).
Anyway, this let me put off the big job for a few more seasons, but this spring, I noticed that my univolt (which is in the closet, to the left of the toilet...back curbside corner) is tilted up...which means that piece of floor is about to fall through. (there is no support under the floor in that corner, at all, and my temp repairs didn't address it at all).

Bill M. · 07-14-2011, 07:20 AM

I have found one thing that will definitely clean the sticky off the interior walls. Krudcutter. Buy it at Walmart. Spray it on, wipe with a terry towel, then wash with soapy water( I use Simple Green). Takes the sticky off. Cleaning the interior walls was the best thing I have done to our 2 old Airstreams. And the stuff does work.